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Coaxial Speaker Build Thread with FaitalPro 6HX150
Coaxial Speaker Build Thread with FaitalPro 6HX150
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Old 31st December 2017, 04:22 PM   #11
JShadzi is offline JShadzi  United States
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Default Coaxial Speaker Build Thread with FaitalPro 6HX150

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrkennyk
I hope to attend next year and feast my eyes on those babies.


Sweet!
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Old 31st December 2017, 04:22 PM   #12
JShadzi is offline JShadzi  United States
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I tested several adhesives to glue the kerfs including media filled epoxy (was overkill and messy to work with), wood glue(too runny) and Loctite construction adhesive which I ended up using. It was thick and didn’t run, squeezed nicely into the voids to support the “veneer surface”, and had great adhesive strength.

Since the cabinet would be heavily braced, ultimately there will be very little load on the kerfs, I think even with proper construction you wouldn’t even have to glue the kerfs, the bracing and ribs of the enclosure will hold everything to shape. It’s also interesting to note how much spring pressure there is on a kerf like this, it takes substantial pressure the bottom out the kerfs and hold the shape so really gluing is a great idea.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

I built some spacer blocks to set the final width out of MDF, and used a combination of straps and bar clamps to hold everything while the glue dried for about three days. After 3 days the clamps essentially fell off and all the spring load of the kerfs was gone, a good sign.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

While the glue was drying I decided to work on the midrange sub-enclosure, i used a technique I’ve done before in my Rally Sports and also the 135Hz horn, the reverse horn, The idea being to reduce the number of parallel surfaces and allow the backwave to diffract and be absorbed better than in a simply square or rectangle or enclosure.

An easy way to build one is to cut your parallel top and bottom angles on the tablesaw, for this I chose about 20°, then create a fixture to hold the piece at that angle in the radial chopsaw, and in this case I cut 45° angles to create a three-dimensional trapezoid or a four sided pyramid.

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Click the image to open in full size.

Each time a cut is made the board is flipped and cut the other way

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And this is easily glued together with tape

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I wanted to add a little more volume and depth so I created a small riser block of 1.5 inches high

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Click the image to open in full size.

To finish it off I added another small deflector at the bottom flat part of the enclosure, just to interact with any higher frequencies

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Click the image to open in full size.

Since my back panels now had angles, I wanted to the square them to each other so I can simply add a back without having to cut any fancy angles. For this I used my handy new cross cut sled that I built, and simply fixtured each enclosure on the sled and easily made the cuts.

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Click the image to open in full size.

Gluing up more panels for the back top and bottom of enclosure

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Next up I’ll document the bracing.

Thanks!
Javad
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Old 31st December 2017, 04:42 PM   #13
TNT is offline TNT  Sweden
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Skills!!!

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Old 2nd January 2018, 04:16 AM   #14
JShadzi is offline JShadzi  United States
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Default Coaxial Speaker Build Thread with FaitalPro 6HX150

Quote:
Originally Posted by TNT
Skills!!!

//


Thanks!
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Old 2nd January 2018, 04:17 AM   #15
JShadzi is offline JShadzi  United States
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Ok time for some bracing!

I started with a tracing of each enclosure since they vary slightly, this gave me a template for all the other braces. Ultimately I needed a top and bottom brace, a brace for the midrange enclosure and 3 additional braces approx every 4”

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Each brace was cut out with a jig saw and finalized to shape in my Wen desk top oscillating sander (love it btw!)

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Click the image to open in full size.

Tracing the midrange enclosure

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Click the image to open in full size.

Port tube plate

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Ports are recessed and the ID is purposely undersized so I can flush trim them through the baffle

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Here is a vlog I made describing the braces

YouTube

And all glued and finalized braces

Detail of the mid enclosure

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Click the image to open in full size.

The end caps are spaced 1/8” from the eventual top/bottom for some CLD treatment

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Thanks!
Javad
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Old 2nd January 2018, 04:51 AM   #16
Doppler9000 is offline Doppler9000  Canada
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Very nice build.

For others who may try this, I will reiterate the recommendation for Bondo auto body filler. It fills well, is easy to apply and is about one third the cost of the Loctite.
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Old 2nd January 2018, 04:57 AM   #17
globalplayer is offline globalplayer  Germany
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Very good.
Especially the trapezoid.
More pics please.
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Old 2nd January 2018, 04:59 AM   #18
JShadzi is offline JShadzi  United States
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Default Coaxial Speaker Build Thread with FaitalPro 6HX150

Quote:
Originally Posted by Doppler9000
Very nice build.

For others who may try this, I will reiterate the recommendation for Bondo auto body filler. It fills well, is easy to apply and is about one third the cost of the Loctite.


Thanks! I’ve got about $12 of Loctite in the entire build (2 tubes) so not bad at all, I didn’t test bondo as it’s more a filler than an adhesive (obviously has adhesive properties) but media filled epoxy worked very well. The amount of spring is tremendous with these kerfs and the Loctite did a great job of holding the shape of the kerfs until I added all the bracing in to completely lock it together.

Appreciate your comments and your following along!

Javad
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Old 4th January 2018, 06:24 AM   #19
JShadzi is offline JShadzi  United States
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Time to install some drivers!

This is the layout

Click the image to open in full size.

As I’ve done before, this is the process for an odd shaped driver Template.

First protect your driver and screw it down to a sacrificial MDF panel, 1/2” works great.

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Next with a perfectly centered router base, trace around the frame with a 1/4” spiral bit, put an even layer of masking tape around the driver frame to slightly over size the template

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Now on a new sacrificial piece, trace around the inside of the first sacrificial Template

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This leaves you with a template 1/4” oversized

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Now using a 3/4” Templating fixture, trace around the second sacrificial template to get the final template perfectly sized to the driver

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Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

With centering reference lines it is quick and easy to align the fixture on your baffle

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Here is a quick blog describing the process: YouTube

Here we have two enclosures ready to destroy, I mean flush mount drivers in! =)

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Test cuts finalizing OD, ID and recesses

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Marked and ready to go with logic check tracings

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Midrange ID cut

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8” recess and cutout

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Click the image to open in full size.

Position driver exactly where it needs to go, install fishing line in driver holes

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Now with double sided tape on template, slide it over the driver frame and attach it firmly, then pull the driver out. This process perfectly positions the template centered around the driver cutout

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Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Flush trim bit

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And router

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Test fit

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Next port tube routering.

Thanks!
Javad
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Old 4th January 2018, 06:54 AM   #20
globalplayer is offline globalplayer  Germany
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Impressive.
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