I have purchased the Zaph|Audio ZA5.3t TMM Tower, Pair, from madisound.
They have provided the design for the enclosure, but the calculations aren't coming right for me, also I don't understand the front baffle design at all, I need better guidance from someone perhaps to understand the design!
Someone please give some insight?
I am not able to achieve the 0.7 cuFt volume that is mentioned that should be attained with these dimensions.
Secondly, I don't understand the measurements for the front baffle, also its a baffle design which will be placed on top of an enclosure underneath, am I right?
Attaching below!
They have provided the design for the enclosure, but the calculations aren't coming right for me, also I don't understand the front baffle design at all, I need better guidance from someone perhaps to understand the design!
Someone please give some insight?
I am not able to achieve the 0.7 cuFt volume that is mentioned that should be attained with these dimensions.
Secondly, I don't understand the measurements for the front baffle, also its a baffle design which will be placed on top of an enclosure underneath, am I right?
Attaching below!
Attachments
I'm sure they are subtracting the volume of drivers, braces, port, etc., to get the net volume. Also it is NOT a box on top of another box. That divider you see in the middle is just showing a brace - with holes in it presumably - and the entire cabinet is one big box.
Not sure what you don't get about the baffle? Specced as inches and [centimeters].
Not sure what you don't get about the baffle? Specced as inches and [centimeters].
Details are on John's (Zaph's) site here: Zaph|Audio - ZA5 Speaker Designs with ZA14W08 woofer and Vifa DQ25SC16-04 tweeter
He's specified roughly 20 litres volume for them, per the drawing. Ergo, 45.72 x 16.5 x 27.94 = 21.07 litres. Subtract a bit for the front baffle being stepped forward, the volume taken by drivers, vent & bracing, & factor in the acoustic volume regained by some internal damping & you're thereabouts.
You can eliminate the lower, partitioned off volume & stick them on stands if you wish. It looks more elegant as a floorstander though, so the panels are extended to the floor & the unused lower section blanked off internally. No mysteries there.
He's specified roughly 20 litres volume for them, per the drawing. Ergo, 45.72 x 16.5 x 27.94 = 21.07 litres. Subtract a bit for the front baffle being stepped forward, the volume taken by drivers, vent & bracing, & factor in the acoustic volume regained by some internal damping & you're thereabouts.
You can eliminate the lower, partitioned off volume & stick them on stands if you wish. It looks more elegant as a floorstander though, so the panels are extended to the floor & the unused lower section blanked off internally. No mysteries there.
Thankyou for this, this makes sense! So wait, It's not a box on top of another box, I understand, but I thought i had to make a complete separate chamber of 18" height, 8" wide, depth of 12.5" as specced...just as divided and shown in the picture..Am i really wrong to assume that? Wow. If I got that wrong, damn!
I found this pic of someone's build for the 5.3T, would you be able to look at this for me? Even in this picture they have it sealed from the bottom part of the cabinet, because it doesn't make sense to me how I will deliver 0.7 volume only if the bottom part is open too?
Also, about the baffle what I don't understand is, it seems in the diagram as if the baffle is STICKING out, why and how I don't understand? Is it a thicker wood? like 1" instead of the overall used 3/4" i am to use? Or is there an enclosure under it with the holes cut open for the magnets to go through, while the speakers are mounted on the baffle which is pasted on top of the enclosure? hope that makes sense
Thankyou once again!
Thankyou for your help! This is really helpful!
The bottom partition is a complete separate chamber? as in it's sealed right? Because that's what I have been thinking.
Okay so all in all, I am okay to follow this? if I just cut out the parts spec'd for the speaker's EXTERNAL dimensions to go 8" wide, 36.6" tall WITHOUT the bottom stand, and 12.5" depth using a 3/4" MDF, I am good to go?
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This is because you entered wrong numbers into the tool, you need to enter either external or internal dimensions, not a mix of both (8" and 12.5" are external, but 18" is internal). But forgetting the tool, using only pen and paper:
6.5 x 11 x 18 = 1287 cubic inches / 1728 = 0.745 cubic ft
So this means that this chamber is what you need and must be sealed against the rest of the column.
All the panels you need are 3/4" thickness. The baffle is simply sticking out from the main box but as can be clearly seen from the plan, the box has a hole where the baffle is placed. And frankly I don't understand the problems you have in reading the plan, a black line is an external sign, a red line is an internal element: you have a box 8" x 11.75 x 36.62 on top of a plinth, with a hole on the front, a baffle of 8" x 16.77, an internal divider, two small horizontal braces and a stiffener placed on the front panel just at the bottom of the baffle.
Ralf
Just confirming that the lower chamber is separate from the actual speaker chamber. It's a false bottom, a base. You could put them on a stand instead if you wanted.
I have the MTM ported version of this speaker and really like them. They are doing daily duty in the living room for the past 7 years or so. I also build the TM for surrounds and the MTM center.
I have the MTM ported version of this speaker and really like them. They are doing daily duty in the living room for the past 7 years or so. I also build the TM for surrounds and the MTM center.
That's great! Thankyou so much!
That does kill the confusion quiet a bit!
I am just confused now whether I should go with the Option #1 or Option#2, or Option #3, and do they make a difference towards stability at all?
I've attached all three options to construct it, i will be receiving my parts in 4 days, so I am getting ready to cut it all out now.
Which option should I go for? and why? Or does it not matter at all?
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It really doesn't matter, but mine usually end up like option #3 (photo #1)
But how you build could be influenced by other design decisions such as: are you going to have a removable baffle, or removable rear panel? The crossovers on these should fit through a driver hole, so you don't need any removable panels, really.
But how you build could be influenced by other design decisions such as: are you going to have a removable baffle, or removable rear panel? The crossovers on these should fit through a driver hole, so you don't need any removable panels, really.
Hey kev!
Thanks for asking!
A lot of progress has been made!
They are ALMOST finished, I think I will update this thread tomorrow or make a new one and link it here related to the build.
I just have to fit everything tonight!
Enclosures are done!
The only thing eating my head right now is that Zaph has used 5/8" foam sheet for the cabinet damping, I have 6/8, 4/8, and 8/8"...I can't decide which one to use!
Thanks for asking!
A lot of progress has been made!
They are ALMOST finished, I think I will update this thread tomorrow or make a new one and link it here related to the build.
I just have to fit everything tonight!
Enclosures are done!
The only thing eating my head right now is that Zaph has used 5/8" foam sheet for the cabinet damping, I have 6/8, 4/8, and 8/8"...I can't decide which one to use!
If I may suggest, use thicker one for the back and thinner for the side walls. This is what I've done in my Zaph ZDT3.5 build and have seen it done so elsewhere too.
Regards,
Oleg
Thankyou for your reply!
How thick though?
Should I use 1" foam for the back? and 3/4" for the sides? or should i do 2/4" for the sides?
Look at the drawing.
- 3/4in for all panels is clearly shown. If you wish to double the front, top and rear baffles then do so, providing that you do not remove internal volume (i.e. the overall external size of the speaker must increase). This is good practice, particularly for the front baffle as it is usually significantly weakened by the driver cutouts. Make sure you chamfer these driver cutouts well to reduce potential reflections & minimise airflow restrictions.
- 1/2in for the largest unsupported panel areas (the sides) would not be a good idea unless you are following the BBC strictures of high-rigidity panel materials with internal bitumen damping under the usual acoustic damping. This can be extremely effective when properly applied, but it is not how John designed the speaker cabinet, and adds complexity so if you don't know how to use it to best effect, stick to standard design. Note that using 1/2in material for the sides would also reduce the external dimensions, altering diffraction behaviour and response slightly. This is likely within crossover & driver tolerance, but as was noted above: when in doubt, follow the designer's advice & plans.
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