Yes I think you're right. I will have to try new positioning to see if my loss of detail is in reflected rather than direct sound.
I certainly have focused on making sure I have maximum dispersion characteristics with the drivers I have, so maybe reflected sound is part of the problem.
Open baffle is simple to experiment with but do some research Electro-acoustic models
Hey that's not a bad idea either! I've heard good things about 1" domes on waveguides, I would probably be able to reduce distortion in the upper midrange/lower treble area with them too.
Had a look and they cost US$26 here Soundlabs Group WG148R Wave Guide
or Can$21 here Accessories For Home Speakers - Solen Electronique Inc.
or Can$21 here Accessories For Home Speakers - Solen Electronique Inc.
This sounds like a really good combo to me. I really appreciate your suggestions.
Wow thanks! It would be really great to have a set of waveguides regrdless
Pedestrian. I know what you mean. Your drivers are too laid back for me as well.
If you're looking for a livelier sound, you'll need to change all your drivers.
The ZA14 is excellent for vocals. With your DSPs, the cone breakup will not present an issue. For the highs, I suggest the Seas 27TBFC.
The trickiest part is the bass. Personally, I would use the VIFA NE265W but it's costly. Furthermore, I'm not sure whether Tymphany still manufacture them anymore.
What you don't want is something like the Dayton DA270. It's only good for THUD, THUD, THUD. Mid-bass is a blurry mess.
Regards
Mike
I've heard such good things about the midgrade SB drivers. The specs look fantastic and people say they sound fantastic. Maybe i'll have to consider those.
Thanks Mike, happy to hear you understand my concerns.
I'm quite happy with my bass, do you really think the NE265 will offer a substantial improvement?
Sorry to say, but I believe that major improvements can be achieved by just learning to make and analyze measurements better.
Equalize each driver, set W-M xo higher around 400Hz, check impulse/step response to get timing right. You could also try more shallow slopes.
Without taking care of these basics, "better" drivers are waste of money.
Equalize each driver, set W-M xo higher around 400Hz, check impulse/step response to get timing right. You could also try more shallow slopes.
Without taking care of these basics, "better" drivers are waste of money.
Gentlemen,
Trying to remain polite here is sometimes really hard, when advices about –mostly very expensive – drivers are given, without even knowing what the crossover looks like and how the speaker in question measures. But here it comes: the only useful advises so far are the ones below given by 5th and Juhazi: they do not cost the OP a single penny.
Crossover implementation is absolutely critical to excellent sound and your methodology, although ok, is lacking
plus
Sorry to say, but I believe that major improvements can be achieved by just learning to make and analyze measurements better.
Equalize each driver, set W-M xo higher around 400Hz, check impulse/step response to get timing right. You could also try more shallow slopes.
Without taking care of these basics, "better" drivers are waste of money.
This is how it is. Get your easuring (ARTA/REW) and simulation software (LspCAD/Xsim/PCD/BoxSIM), experiment a little with tweeter and midrange levels, and a whole world of “voicing” will be available for virtually free.
Eelco
Trying to remain polite here is sometimes really hard, when advices about –mostly very expensive – drivers are given, without even knowing what the crossover looks like and how the speaker in question measures. But here it comes: the only useful advises so far are the ones below given by 5th and Juhazi: they do not cost the OP a single penny.
Crossover implementation is absolutely critical to excellent sound and your methodology, although ok, is lacking
plus
Sorry to say, but I believe that major improvements can be achieved by just learning to make and analyze measurements better.
Equalize each driver, set W-M xo higher around 400Hz, check impulse/step response to get timing right. You could also try more shallow slopes.
Without taking care of these basics, "better" drivers are waste of money.
This is how it is. Get your easuring (ARTA/REW) and simulation software (LspCAD/Xsim/PCD/BoxSIM), experiment a little with tweeter and midrange levels, and a whole world of “voicing” will be available for virtually free.
Eelco
Hey guys, I completely understand that my methods of measurement aren't up to snuff, but simply assuming that I haven't already spent lots of time moving crossover points, slopes, levels, and EQ around is a little bewildering to me.
I feel that I have reached the limits of what this configuration of drivers can do, and am simply asking to explore the options I have with the members of this forum. Suggestions about optimizing direct vs reflected sound levels are useful, suggestions that explore driver options are useful, suggestions for new software to measure with are useful. Suggestions that assume I'm not doing the basics are not.
I feel that I have reached the limits of what this configuration of drivers can do, and am simply asking to explore the options I have with the members of this forum. Suggestions about optimizing direct vs reflected sound levels are useful, suggestions that explore driver options are useful, suggestions for new software to measure with are useful. Suggestions that assume I'm not doing the basics are not.
You can’t just pull one data point and make assumptions like that. Less mechanical damping (ie higher Qm) is often associated with drivers that ring which can appear to be gretaer detail when it is actually just emphasis (ie false detail in common parlance).
dave
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