Hey,
im designing the crossover for my very first speaker build, and would like to get some feedback / improvement ideas for the crossover.
The speaker i'm building is a small vented bookshelf speaker (like the Overnight Sensations) with an internal volume of round about 0,105ft³ (3l).
The Woofer im using is a Dayton ND105-4 and the tweeter is the Peerless DX20BF00-08. The corssover freq. is round about 2500 hz.
Im thinkig of maybe adding a BSC later to add some bass.
In the zip are the .frd and .zma files for the drivers.
The Circuit.jpg shows the circuit and the other picture the final response curve.
Thank you for your help,
Sebastian
im designing the crossover for my very first speaker build, and would like to get some feedback / improvement ideas for the crossover.
The speaker i'm building is a small vented bookshelf speaker (like the Overnight Sensations) with an internal volume of round about 0,105ft³ (3l).
The Woofer im using is a Dayton ND105-4 and the tweeter is the Peerless DX20BF00-08. The corssover freq. is round about 2500 hz.
Im thinkig of maybe adding a BSC later to add some bass.
In the zip are the .frd and .zma files for the drivers.
The Circuit.jpg shows the circuit and the other picture the final response curve.
Thank you for your help,
Sebastian
Attachments
Hi Sese, welcome!
This looks like an ear drill to me.
From 1kHz to the top is is critical to do more than flat, or you will suffer.
Having said this, it is super important to go from measurements in the baffle. You'll need to make sure you add the proper acoustic offset to the woofer, in addition to measured FR and impedance.
BSC is dependent on placement. If you plan on using these as stand mounts, BSC will be critical, but shelf/desk/wall will add enough reinforcement to make that far less necessary. If unsure, measure in place.
Can you do the 5" FaitalPro 5FE120?
Best,
E
This looks like an ear drill to me.
From 1kHz to the top is is critical to do more than flat, or you will suffer. Having said this, it is super important to go from measurements in the baffle. You'll need to make sure you add the proper acoustic offset to the woofer, in addition to measured FR and impedance.
BSC is dependent on placement. If you plan on using these as stand mounts, BSC will be critical, but shelf/desk/wall will add enough reinforcement to make that far less necessary. If unsure, measure in place.
Can you do the 5" FaitalPro 5FE120?
Best,
E
Good start. A few points, firstly (and this depends on whether you are using measured responses) at 6kHz the bump produced by the woofer is cutting the tweeter response as the phase is opposed there as well. However, cone breakup is difficult to quantise as the cone is acting chaotically and the extent of this issue is unclear, eg the bump may not be significant spatially. It is not a large concern but I would prefer to see the woofer out by this point and the tweeter standing on its own.
Next, the baffle step issue is often indicated by an apparent lack of weight (tactile feel) to a reproduction. A lack of balance to the weight, such as thin sounding voices with an abundance of bass (to probably oversimplify) indicates other issues that will hinder any attempts to compensate.
Then check whether tonal changes in the bass and treble help. Look for regions that sound better when louder or more quiet as these indicate other problems. We may be able to help identify these issues.
Next, the baffle step issue is often indicated by an apparent lack of weight (tactile feel) to a reproduction. A lack of balance to the weight, such as thin sounding voices with an abundance of bass (to probably oversimplify) indicates other issues that will hinder any attempts to compensate.
Then check whether tonal changes in the bass and treble help. Look for regions that sound better when louder or more quiet as these indicate other problems. We may be able to help identify these issues.
Here is my quick XO suggestion. Not sure about the phase, so moved the tweeter back about 1/2", since it's sort-of horn loaded. The "tank" on the woofer coil gets it rolled off sooner and out of the way of the tweeter and then I raised the XO point to ~3k so the tweeter can handle some power. Just a starting point, but agree with "X", you really have to measure the speakers on the baffle to get phase correct and allow them to blend as well as they can.
Attachments
So phase matching is critical, and that will only happen with accurate distance matching.
Your crossover looks better, but don't buy anything until you have measured. I have a feeling your bass will end up significantly off as well as your phase.
The new crossover does look better than before. Designing with an L-pad is a great choice,, as you'll e able to adjust the level later with minimal effect on the HP filter.
Your crossover looks better, but don't buy anything until you have measured.
I have a feeling your bass will end up significantly off as well as your phase. The new crossover does look better than before. Designing with an L-pad is a great choice,, as you'll e able to adjust the level later with minimal effect on the HP filter.
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