Nano Microfarads Version 2 Build Thread W5-2053 and PS-95-8

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Hey everyone, since InDIYana 2017 I've wanted to build a slightly bigger version of my Microfarads entry, the original thread is at http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/306193-microfarads-nano-speaker-using-ps95-w5-2053-a.html

The main difference is more room to work with, internal volume is up to about 9 liters with available airspace to the W5 RBM sub at about 7liters.

I'll also be using a neat TangBand Passive Radiator Brian turned me on to that has a lot of excursion capability and should address another limitation I had with the Peerless 5" PRs I used on V1.

This is still a very small speaker with the bass capabilities of one 10" subwoofer easily (for the pair), and I really enjoy listening to the PS95-8, where it lacks in smooth treble too end it makes up for in coherence and integration.

First I started with the template to flush mount the PR's.

2ef6d73e195c2d0faa9e91d0fd7cdbce.jpg


I built a simple frame around the PR, this will create the initial template which I'll use to make the final template. I measured the rounded corners of the frame and happily they were exactly 1/2", same as my spiral cut flush trim bit.

102e918449a31e64bcecbb75d510da92.jpg


48dde5e8e455727ea813649410e73c46.jpg


Quick test fit and it's perfect

acba37bcd05b1ed6b080845ff6036f00.jpg


Now to pattern onto a fresh piece with center markings

17724c4368af90283344ee92c4df9e8e.jpg


Finished

bb209803525c89c20c45f039f3b64071.jpg


f9fc9fad75a632a55dd6c4e2ecca00c8.jpg


Next to do something with this gorgeous Mahogany...

f1bd75aedaaad99ecb26287c6b4d6041.jpg


Thanks!
Javad
 
On to building the enclosure, I started by cutting all the mahogany pieces to size for the sides

926211641fc0d70c1681bac64c13bc9b.jpg


Quick glue up

8976c332d5050d0797b50fd2c0971465.jpg


While those dried, I started on the midrange chamber, it's made from a 4 inch cardboard tube and a solid wood end cap that's rabbited to fit tightly in the tube. One advantage of having more room is a bigger mid chamber, which I believe will allow me to dampen the rear wave more effectively than I was able to in Version 1 which used a very small fiberglass cup on the back. It will be interesting to compare, however I believe I had some responses issues on V1 due to this:

8152033cbefcbf1ee5825aeaedb10468.jpg


1308467f2a48306622f3f22403109910.jpg


The tube is then scalloped to allow it to fit within the tight constraints of the enclosure

40f5f4ec8fb88be3c1cd328a9689c353.jpg


Test fit, all is well

5fb2a9f564a3fdeaee7ffca3fe4ef324.jpg


Next I added a flange for the removable back

74e02386fe84facb5ab4b62f1bb89718.jpg


This notch allows the W5 to be slid into the enclosure

3d7840bef153657f6780708ee4b44f64.jpg


Removable back cut and fit

a0b319cfb9c9046b4071637e7b9faaec.jpg


Pilot holes for threaded inserts and hardware

3297f089271dfdd7a529f8a1db579b3f.jpg


5 mm threaded inserts

acaf04a2bfa657e2d8d89d9afe5c77a2.jpg


Stainless steel button head cap screws

7d924be885953eef0615b9eca53e4e85.jpg


Gluing in the middle chamber using Loctite construction adhesive (great stuff BTW)

64e7d0e4b7d1b526a2120264a5d3c4e1.jpg


2b7a97b488ff152fdf75d51a824e9976.jpg


cf796a718b0b67ef5b01a07c9fe0d66b.jpg


f2e9b490d561bda4ac00a82cdb56c414.jpg


I added this little brace which will also serve as another screw attachment point for the rear panel

fbb13eea7915c24490ff59908c6d8c2d.jpg


Thanks!
Javad
 
Snuck in the garage after everyone went to bed and got some good work done

This is what I started with

345bf7c1fae6a88d651b6585413aafca.jpg


I added a threaded insert to the cross brace for additional strength and dampening of the rear removable panel

62b5493eca5e9d23b96810e7c1ca1f1c.jpg


To add a little more clearance and wiggle room for the woofer, I rabbeted some clearance in the bottom panel, just to be safe

7be41aafdb4c997c654f4f7a267878ad.jpg


Now for some circle jig work, nice tip is to use some thick dense foam on your workbench when routering so you don't go through to your workbench, works well with double sided tapenade has a grippy surface.

8486546c12c6b11d0958b8e04a291531.jpg


Woofer cutout and mid recess and cutout

0c76722e6190187423b7e0f6bf57dfc2.jpg


0942b327231b332c79fd8ba22a694a5f.jpg


Rear breathing clearance for the mid

371a031d9f26c7e17895faf87084cf0e.jpg


45d bevel for woofer rear-mount cutout

8dffbc5d4d3baadc8b3e51dcdb80b861.jpg


abfc36a59eb761a0d408928d6957b185.jpg


I took the opportunity to locate rear woofer screw holes while I had the room

1de2636d03a300fca977261953eb96ac.jpg


Test fit

4bf964e7f057158e536c866c2cb693a9.jpg


de75f2bb61744160d0bd898ae8fa84d0.jpg


I removed the gasket from the back and am using it to seal the front, works well

e70ae49318c27c9e2735569dc03c3cd3.jpg


Front panel located with 4 dowels

dadf06b7cde34af2883bfa338da883ca.jpg


Did a quick sand with 120grit

b696d7cb9b341a14804fed72b5db241c.jpg


Gluing on the front panel

2bc3f43e102227a61b3e2ff7af540d2b.jpg


Thanks!
Javad
 
Little more detail As you can see these joints are seamless aside from the grain pattern, to do this very flat, square surfaces are required and high clamping force

ffa9be5b3481513996d0fce874770ac8.jpg



916394f0e70a732a5dec5bd635af50d4.jpg



a75757333a53da8a3babff85b520a02e.jpg


Here on corners I sand them flat and square to ensure no gap can be left before the baffle is glued down


ef66c70659d31e6dfb27bbeeba778f07.jpg



4bae0f0bdc5b082e9fec16f43d449b04.jpg


Glue applied before the front baffle is clamped down


96d998830021ae642b68f3866d168c5e.jpg


Front baffle dry and ready for flush routering.


04b26e4dc935eb88e098b2f0c383fc87.jpg

Thanks!
Javad
 
Got a little work done tonight.

Here is where I started, time to flush cut the baffle

7daefb789f6fdebdb9566f00f518a64c.jpg


218c4263e0c531fe1cb3629da2e8f6d4.jpg


I'm in love with these large 1/2" spiral upcut bits since the Strafi build, they cut so smooth and accurately and the dual bearings are very smooth, highly recommended

de8a16a555e1b19a5ed2cf69c5924f66.jpg


Now for the passive radiators, I made a cardboard template for the center cutout, all templates are located and centered by the center of the PR in each direction

ee10661c96812f3ecd26e3323c24ef15.jpg


And a test fit of the flush mount template

58af360a87585ffb0dc81eb5027f34b8.jpg


Center cutout with the jig saw

f8968dd3c38b6e0c137976fb44b549c4.jpg


05e62ff9e64e501e1a4b4fc887da1ca8.jpg


The flush mount template is held in with double sided tape and flush cut with a 1/2" top bearing plunge bit

cbc426db6706001603ad5905ba41e0ca.jpg


e8533ddd64f1e6182b17789af161293b.jpg


969a271eb35bdbcae3a1b373198cda3f.jpg


286c5ea7f20f6c95589ec6a9db19f13f.jpg


eb89696491b61541ec1d83520beb1567.jpg


6e864a30ae19890da236df4ef3b5796f.jpg


Next step is some roundovers and some sanding.

Thanks!
Javad
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.