Hi!
I recently finished building my Tango MT loudspeakers, but I'm having a little issue with one of the crossovers.
On the prototype I built I heard the tweeter crackle like clipping, in the pattern of "the lack of dithering". However, when switching the crossovers around the sound followed along to the other speaker. The one troublesome crossover also has some weird harmonics that sound like a damaged diaphragm.
I'm not exactly sure what the issue might be but I suspect a damaged component. What would be the most likely to fail, so I can check? I hope at least that RMA will cover it :')
Thanks,
Anna
PS: the top side, which you can differentiate, is the High-pass section. The top view is in reverse. On the top view, the big coil, the long cap and the coil next to the cap are the Low-Pass. The other coil, and the resistors & capacitors are the High-pass there.
I recently finished building my Tango MT loudspeakers, but I'm having a little issue with one of the crossovers.
On the prototype I built I heard the tweeter crackle like clipping, in the pattern of "the lack of dithering". However, when switching the crossovers around the sound followed along to the other speaker. The one troublesome crossover also has some weird harmonics that sound like a damaged diaphragm.
I'm not exactly sure what the issue might be but I suspect a damaged component. What would be the most likely to fail, so I can check? I hope at least that RMA will cover it :')
Thanks,
Anna
PS: the top side, which you can differentiate, is the High-pass section. The top view is in reverse. On the top view, the big coil, the long cap and the coil next to the cap are the Low-Pass. The other coil, and the resistors & capacitors are the High-pass there.
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As an add-on: here are some samples from DJ Snake's You Know You Like It (it's a remix) that especially trigger the crackle.
I'm also using a perfect iNuke 1000DSP for the powering of them. It's certainly the crossover.
https://mega.nz/#!vYxHSCzb!TNy7qDQNx-I_PMd2JoY2V3y8zGPFkGY-fqEXJXxn64k
I'm also using a perfect iNuke 1000DSP for the powering of them. It's certainly the crossover.
https://mega.nz/#!vYxHSCzb!TNy7qDQNx-I_PMd2JoY2V3y8zGPFkGY-fqEXJXxn64k
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Yes, switch over the caps between the crossovers one at a time and see when the problem shifts over. But first, how about when you have the problem crossover out, connect it to the tweeter only and have a good wiggle and poke about at all the components, you never know, it might save you a bit of time locating the fault
Put them out, and well away...I mean, isolated.
Edit.You don't have to twist the cable...Well, I have mine twisted but I bought it like that (with some nylon chord to keep the cables tight and at the same distance...clever! But nahhh.. )
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Disconnect all the drivers and connect almost anything reasonably robust (including one of your woofers) to one tweeter output at a time.
If you still hear it, connect that driver directly to your amp output.
Can you pin down if some particular musical passage triggers the problem?
B.
Did I forget to say, "For testing purposes try the following."?
Almost any driver, even a woofer (which you obviously have two sitting nearby), will play the sort of fault I think you are kind of sort of describing.
If it happens only in the box, then the box/mounting/interaction is the problem. That is a logical conclusion. Really?
If it happens only on one musical piece, then it is the piece.
No, do not connect a tweeter directly to your amp unless it is notably robust or cheap.
Time to test.
B.
Well the distortion I hear is distortion on a frequency range way above my woofer's range. it happens with this particular piece on one speaker, not the other, and not any other pairs. It's just these specific frequencies and the same happens with a sweep. My tweeter can handle being powered with fullrange at low levels, but the amp has a DSP built in.
Did you make sure and remove the enamel off the coil lead after cut to length? If not, the solder won't make a good connection, typically keeps it out of circuit, but could cause a cold solder point.
Also check to make sure it's not the tweeter/woofer vibrating in teh cabinet. Have you tried applying pressure to the surrounds during the passage and seeing if it's mechanical?
Otherwise, I would try what @bentoronto suggests and try to test the tweeter(s) by themselves with the XO.
Run wires from teh Woofer and Tweeter out of the port, so you can test the XO outside the cabinet. Just apply the woofer wires from ground point to different spots on teh XO and you will "see" which part has a failure (hopefully).
Also check to make sure it's not the tweeter/woofer vibrating in teh cabinet. Have you tried applying pressure to the surrounds during the passage and seeing if it's mechanical?
Otherwise, I would try what @bentoronto suggests and try to test the tweeter(s) by themselves with the XO.
Run wires from teh Woofer and Tweeter out of the port, so you can test the XO outside the cabinet. Just apply the woofer wires from ground point to different spots on teh XO and you will "see" which part has a failure (hopefully).
Not suggesting you open up the tweeters...suggesting you check to make sure the tweeter/woofer basket isn't rattling or whistling (mechanical vibrating).
I agree your cabinets are well built - only suggesting the coupling from the speakers isn't quite noise proof.
Also not suggesting you touch the dome or either speaker cone - rather that you use jumper wires and "test" the XO at certain points, so you can figure out the faulty component or cold solder joint.
Up to you to try suggestions.
I agree your cabinets are well built - only suggesting the coupling from the speakers isn't quite noise proof.
Also not suggesting you touch the dome or either speaker cone - rather that you use jumper wires and "test" the XO at certain points, so you can figure out the faulty component or cold solder joint.
Up to you to try suggestions.
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