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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Crossover crackle
Crossover crackle
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Old 2nd July 2017, 01:57 PM   #21
scottjoplin is offline scottjoplin  Wales
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bullittstang View Post
Just apply the woofer wires from ground point to different spots on teh XO and you will "see" which part has a failure (hopefully).
That's a good idea
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Old 2nd July 2017, 02:04 PM   #22
HumbleDeer is offline HumbleDeer  Belgium
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The coils are placed like that to prevent cross-talk. That's a good thing. It's just one side doing this, though.
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Old 2nd July 2017, 02:05 PM   #23
HumbleDeer is offline HumbleDeer  Belgium
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Originally Posted by scottjoplin View Post
Hi, I thought that was the first thing you had tried and the problem shifted to the other tweeter, that's proves it's the crossover, unless you swapped the outputs in which case it may be distortion on that one track
i'm fairly certain it's the crossover but I tend to forget alot and I can't actually remember if I switched it or not and I can't remember if I remember it.
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Old 2nd July 2017, 02:10 PM   #24
scottjoplin is offline scottjoplin  Wales
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Gotcha, how about making a note of what you try as you go along....
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Old 2nd July 2017, 02:23 PM   #25
Alfetta87 is offline Alfetta87  France
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Crossover crackle
Maybe you can switch the complete crossover, if it does the crackle on the other speaker, than it's the crossover parts.

You use Dayton caps, not exactly the best choice - they are Chinese made (Bennic), certainly not bad, but they can have failures.
If you have money (use your holiday pay...), buy some Mundorf, they are manufactured in France by SCR.

- dan
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Old 2nd July 2017, 02:44 PM   #26
HumbleDeer is offline HumbleDeer  Belgium
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Originally Posted by Alfetta87 View Post
Maybe you can switch the complete crossover, if it does the crackle on the other speaker, than it's the crossover parts.

You use Dayton caps, not exactly the best choice - they are Chinese made (Bennic), certainly not bad, but they can have failures.
If you have money (use your holiday pay...), buy some Mundorf, they are manufactured in France by SCR.

- dan
That's what I was saying.

Dayton caps are great value for price though. If something goes wrong you can just RMA it or often just get sent a new one because they're not very expensive. if I can, I'll see if I can buy some better caps for the ones that are most heavily used power wise.
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Old 2nd July 2017, 02:53 PM   #27
Alfetta87 is offline Alfetta87  France
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Crossover crackle
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Originally Posted by HumbleDeer View Post
That's what I was saying.

Dayton caps are great value for price though. If something goes wrong you can just RMA it or often just get sent a new one because they're not very expensive. if I can, I'll see if I can buy some better caps for the ones that are most heavily used power wise.
I agree: good value for money, but Mundorf sound better!
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Old 2nd July 2017, 02:56 PM   #28
bullittstang is offline bullittstang  United States
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Dayton caps are more than suitable. The only benefit from boutique caps will be seen in the tweeter circuit and you only need to upgrade the series caps. I don't waste my money unless because I don't have golden ears - I have never heard a real difference (YMMV).
Sounds childish - but writing down what you try is standard for me when I have a problem. After trying 10 things, no one could remember all the combinations.
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Old 2nd July 2017, 02:59 PM   #29
giralfino is offline giralfino  Italy
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That's another post about problem determination. What you need to do is to find where the problem really is, and not where do you think it is
So you have 2 set of drivers and 2 crossovers. Mark the drivers of the first set with 1 and the drivers of the other set with 2. Mark one crossover with A and the other with B. Connect set 1 with crossover A and set 2 with crossover B out of the box. You hopefully should have only one group drivers-crossover with a problem. For the next steps lets assume that the group 1-A has the problem and the group 2-B hasn't. Then something in the set 1 or crossover A is not good.
First isolate the problem in connecting only one driver at a time, then you will know if the problem lies either in the low pass section/woofer or the high pass/tweeter. Again lets assume that the problem is in the high pass section/tweeter, so either the tweeter 1 or the high pass A are bad. Finally connect tweeter 1 to crossover B and tweeter 2 with crossover A. If the problem is in the group 1-B then it is the tweeter, if the problem is in the group 2-A it is the crossover.
If the problem is in a driver search for a replacement, if it is in the crossover search for a bad contact and/or bad wire.
The last case is the one in which both group sound good outside the box and bad inside. In this case the problem is in the terminal(s).

Having said all this I think the most probable cause of the problem is a bad contact in one of the solder joints.

Ralf
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Old 2nd July 2017, 03:00 PM   #30
Alfetta87 is offline Alfetta87  France
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Crossover crackle
Quote:
Originally Posted by bullittstang View Post
Dayton caps are more than suitable. The only benefit from boutique caps will be seen in the tweeter circuit and you only need to upgrade the series caps. I don't waste my money unless because I don't have golden ears - I have never heard a real difference (YMMV).
Sounds childish - but writing down what you try is standard for me when I have a problem. After trying 10 things, no one could remember all the combinations.
Read this, interesting: Humble Homemade Hifi - Cap Test
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