Have searched and searched, here and on Audio Karma and on the interwebs but no-go...
So I picked up these BEATER DX9's a couple weeks back for pretty cheap. Tweeters test good, mids were replaced with some 8ohm Goldwood's and the woofers need new foams and have some staining on the cones but look and feel like they are in functional condition physically.
The cabinets have been painted glossy black, have chips and screw holes in them, and no grills, they were hanging in a four car garage/shop.
I've been watching the regular sources for replacement CV mids but then started thinking about the costs and "maybe" an ewave would be interesting...
I haven't ewaved before so I'm hoping some of the more experienced ewavers can provide some guidance whether a specific direction or that it wouldn't be wise/worthwhile.
Thoughts, inputs, questions, comments?
So I picked up these BEATER DX9's a couple weeks back for pretty cheap. Tweeters test good, mids were replaced with some 8ohm Goldwood's and the woofers need new foams and have some staining on the cones but look and feel like they are in functional condition physically.
The cabinets have been painted glossy black, have chips and screw holes in them, and no grills, they were hanging in a four car garage/shop.
I've been watching the regular sources for replacement CV mids but then started thinking about the costs and "maybe" an ewave would be interesting...
I haven't ewaved before so I'm hoping some of the more experienced ewavers can provide some guidance whether a specific direction or that it wouldn't be wise/worthwhile.
Thoughts, inputs, questions, comments?
For the motivated reader ( click the pic );
The pictured waveguide ( actually a $10.00 knock-off of it ) combined with the @ $ 40.00 Peerless compression driver can produce the following HF curve;
> when using the following HP network ( though you're on your own for a passable low-pass for your 4-ohm CV woofer ).
One can easily add an 8-ohm variable Lpad to attenuate the HF ( if found to be necessary by locating it between the LC components & the driver ). There's little disruption to the overall working impedance curve or the predicted frequency response .
Tymphany/Peerless Driver
PRV Waveguide
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The pictured waveguide ( actually a $10.00 knock-off of it ) combined with the @ $ 40.00 Peerless compression driver can produce the following HF curve;
> when using the following HP network ( though you're on your own for a passable low-pass for your 4-ohm CV woofer ).
One can easily add an 8-ohm variable Lpad to attenuate the HF ( if found to be necessary by locating it between the LC components & the driver ). There's little disruption to the overall working impedance curve or the predicted frequency response .
Tymphany/Peerless Driver
PRV Waveguide
I've been enjoying the $25 Pyle PDS442 on a Selenium waveguide. Good sound for cheap. Haven't heard the Peerless but it looks like a winner.
Not much info on the Pyle PDS442. Here's a measurement in my room using a cheep mic and iPhone. If anyone has experience with the Pyle please chime in.
Not much info on the Pyle PDS442. Here's a measurement in my room using a cheep mic and iPhone. If anyone has experience with the Pyle please chime in.
Attachments
Right, I assume it's this post you're referring to: Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker | Page 801 | Audiokarma Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
GM
Hi GM,
No ( actually ), there's a pair of separate threads for the (re)build that I pictured .
They are;
Zonker92's L45 eWaves_#1
&
Zonker92's L45 eWaves_#2
No ( actually ), there's a pair of separate threads for the (re)build that I pictured .
They are;
Zonker92's L45 eWaves_#1
&
Zonker92's L45 eWaves_#2
Google,
As Gibbi mentioned ( or inferred ), you'll need to determine if your CV 15" has output up to 1.5Khz ( where it would then need to hand-off to the horn/driver combo ).
One never knows, you might get lucky and find that you can simply run that woofer full-range ( & then simply use it's natural roll-off as a builtin low-pass network ).
This was done with great success by the Altec model M14 ( it really only had a HiPass filter for a network & an anti-"Rocker" safety switch ).
Fellows like Godzilla know how to keep it "cheap & cheerful" ( yet get meaningful data ) to help create something listenable / maybe he'll chime in with some uber-affordable apps. that you can use with an iPhone ( or android ) to help you determine if your woofer has usable 1500hz output.
As Gibbi mentioned ( or inferred ), you'll need to determine if your CV 15" has output up to 1.5Khz ( where it would then need to hand-off to the horn/driver combo ).
One never knows, you might get lucky and find that you can simply run that woofer full-range ( & then simply use it's natural roll-off as a builtin low-pass network ).
This was done with great success by the Altec model M14 ( it really only had a HiPass filter for a network & an anti-"Rocker" safety switch ).
Fellows like Godzilla know how to keep it "cheap & cheerful" ( yet get meaningful data ) to help create something listenable / maybe he'll chime in with some uber-affordable apps. that you can use with an iPhone ( or android ) to help you determine if your woofer has usable 1500hz output.
Greets!
Ah! The links within 'my' link....... Saw them at a glance, so didn't feel the need to list them separately.
Regardless, nice to see all this active interest in [advanced] DIY and 'el cheapo' horn design/apps after all the browbeating [and worse] me and the relatively few 'hornies' took for so long on nearly all types of audio forums.
GM
Ah! The links within 'my' link.......
Saw them at a glance, so didn't feel the need to list them separately. Regardless, nice to see all this active interest in [advanced] DIY and 'el cheapo' horn design/apps after all the browbeating [and worse] me and the relatively few 'hornies' took for so long on nearly all types of audio forums.
GM
FWIW, way back when, my default speaker for friends, co-workers were floor loaded TLs [~MLTL nowadays] loaded with cheap, high Qt 12" PA [ceiling, console replacement] drivers with a cheap horn tweeter capped off around 9 kHz? [2.2uF] that except for having a 2X+ power rating [making me wonder if bogus], this one appears to be a drop in replacement 40+ yrs later!
https://www.parts-express.com/pyle-...source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla
GM
those 15's in the dx9's are more of a higher sensitivity (less low bass) variety. I've owned 3 or more pairs over time, and would swoop them up if I saw a pair locally, great party / theater speaker, just ok at low volumes.
Crossed at 100hz to quad 18's, I've blown mids.
Going against the grain, I've seen you can replace the mids (ebay) for around $70.
But good luck in your project !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Crossed at 100hz to quad 18's, I've blown mids.
Going against the grain, I've seen you can replace the mids (ebay) for around $70.
But good luck in your project !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
norman bates said:
What size mids are used & are they sealed back or are they open back ( housed within sub-enclosure ).
The Eminence ( sealed back ) 6 1/2" mid Alpha-6CBMR has garnered quite favourable reviews from listeners & designers alike ( despite the official trace shown in the product cut sheet ) .
>>> maybe he'll chime in with some uber-affordable apps. that you can use with an iPhone ( or android ) to help you determine if your woofer has usable 1500hz output.
To create measurements I've cobbled together the following apps.
- Apple Numbers (this creates the chart - FREE)
- SPL Meter (iOS app that measures the SPL - FREE).
- Audio Signal Generator (iOS app - FREE)
I use this $15 mic and plug it into my iPhone.
https://www.amazon.com/Professional...qid=1492810843&sr=8-3&keywords=Mic+for+iphone
I clip the mic to the top of my IKEA chair where I do my critical listening.
The test tones are played from my iPad connected to my amp. I record the SPL in Numbers and and it creates the chart. It's very easy but takes about 10 to 15 minutes each. Once I start doing it I usually swap a couple of horns in and out and make several measurements.
If you just want to see if your woofer has output to 1500Hz (or whatever) just download Audio Signal Generator (or a similar app) to your phone, connect to your amp and see if you can hear the tones when you play them. I don't seem to have much hearing above 15kHz and it's strange to see the SPL Meter app jump when the room seems silent.
Personally, I don't think this mic measures bass accurately below 300Hz. No matter how loud the bass is below that frequency it measures about 30db lower than the frequencies above.
Hope this helps someone looking to make measurements on the cheap. Maybe one day I'll buy a better mic.
To create measurements I've cobbled together the following apps.
- Apple Numbers (this creates the chart - FREE)
- SPL Meter (iOS app that measures the SPL - FREE).
- Audio Signal Generator (iOS app - FREE)
I use this $15 mic and plug it into my iPhone.
https://www.amazon.com/Professional...qid=1492810843&sr=8-3&keywords=Mic+for+iphone
I clip the mic to the top of my IKEA chair where I do my critical listening.
The test tones are played from my iPad connected to my amp. I record the SPL in Numbers and and it creates the chart. It's very easy but takes about 10 to 15 minutes each. Once I start doing it I usually swap a couple of horns in and out and make several measurements.
If you just want to see if your woofer has output to 1500Hz (or whatever) just download Audio Signal Generator (or a similar app) to your phone, connect to your amp and see if you can hear the tones when you play them. I don't seem to have much hearing above 15kHz and it's strange to see the SPL Meter app jump when the room seems silent.
Personally, I don't think this mic measures bass accurately below 300Hz. No matter how loud the bass is below that frequency it measures about 30db lower than the frequencies above.
Hope this helps someone looking to make measurements on the cheap. Maybe one day I'll buy a better mic.
Most home audio amps are 8ohm. When you run a 4ohm speaker on a 8ohm amp the output circuit will run hot because of the lower ohm resistanse from the speakers. In time with enough volume applied it will cook the output circuit. 4ohm is car audio. I would not run those on my home audio 8ohm amps. Dont want to take a chance of frying an output circuit.
I lost an amp. I lent out a nice amp to a friend. It came back messed up. It had a fried speaker output circuit. He was using 4ohm on a 8ohm amp. It was ruined. That could be very expensive and good luck finding a tech that knows how to do that kind of repair. So, my Q is why would any maker make a 4ohm speaker for home audio when most home audio amps are 8ohm?o
I lost an amp. I lent out a nice amp to a friend. It came back messed up. It had a fried speaker output circuit. He was using 4ohm on a 8ohm amp. It was ruined. That could be very expensive and good luck finding a tech that knows how to do that kind of repair. So, my Q is why would any maker make a 4ohm speaker for home audio when most home audio amps are 8ohm?o
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