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"Portable" bluetooth speaker build advice
"Portable" bluetooth speaker build advice
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Old 5th March 2017, 06:20 PM   #1
Sonicfury405 is offline Sonicfury405
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Default "Portable" bluetooth speaker build advice

Hello DIYaudio communty!

My name is Max and I'm a 2nd year electronic engineering student. I am trying to combine some of my hobbies in a project. Being a novice when it comes to building speakers i am seeking for your wisdom. I try to look up as much info as i can before asking questions but i'm afraid i cant find a clear answer for this problem.

As the title says am building "portable" 2.1 Bluetooth speaker. To avoid dealing with tweeter crossovers i am using 2 Tangband W4-1337 SDF full range drivers and a ScanSpeak 5.5" driver as a Mid/Low bass woofer. This will be connected to a TPA 3116 2.1 Class D amp with a build in adjustable crossover for the bass. I plan on using 2 passive radiators to keep ik sealed. I would like to avoid getting stuff inside while using it outside.

I think that my speakers and amp are a bit too overpowered but i already have it so... yeah.. Cant change that anymore

My dilemma is:

I am trying to combine these speakers in 1 relatively small enclosure. Right now i have them all not separated like most commercial Bluetooth speakers do. Will this be a problem or would it be wise to put the Tangband drivers each in a separate enclosure? If i separate them it will end up being a small sealed enclosure for each driver, maybe even so small that it would be worse than leaving them all in one space. So.... what to do?

I have included pictures of my design. The boxes etc are space holders for batteries and electronics. The two holes in the rear is for the two 6.5 inch radiators

I hope you guys can give me a good advice. If you have other things that i can improve on (probably everything) please do tell!

Ow and the entire enclosure will be 3d printed. Total size will be 405mm wide 170mm high and 240mm deep.
Attached Images
File Type: png Side grill.PNG (590.7 KB, 280 views)
File Type: png Side Sealed.PNG (429.4 KB, 275 views)
File Type: png Top Sealed.PNG (698.7 KB, 271 views)
File Type: png Top unsealed.PNG (298.0 KB, 265 views)
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Old 6th March 2017, 08:17 AM   #2
Lojzek is offline Lojzek  Croatia
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Hi, I'm not sure how is this stereo amp chip configured as a 2.1 system. Tang Band units are capable of 70 Hz/-3dB in about 4,5 litre cabinet, so I would rather keep the boombox simpler without the added midwoofer. This chip gives 2*8 W/8 ohm with a 12V battery so in that sense it's more than enough for casual listening.

Separating speaker boxes is common sense if you want the best out of these with an appropriate PR. TB radiators seem not to be. Simulate the response of these.

Frequency response on-axis according to manufacturer would suffice, but it wouldn't off-axis. That's a compromise one has to accept.

If I were to build myself one, I'd try to find a co-axial unit and work some kind of a crossover or at least use car audio units with just a cap on tweeter.

Last edited by Lojzek; 6th March 2017 at 08:30 AM.
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Old 6th March 2017, 02:07 PM   #3
Pano is offline Pano  United States
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"Portable" bluetooth speaker build advice
Have yo looked thru the Boominator thread?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class...ght=boominator
There is likely a lot of info there to help you.
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Old 6th March 2017, 05:48 PM   #4
Sonicfury405 is offline Sonicfury405
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lojzek View Post
Hi, I'm not sure how is this stereo amp chip configured as a 2.1 system. Tang Band units are capable of 70 Hz/-3dB in about 4,5 litre cabinet, so I would rather keep the boombox simpler without the added midwoofer. This chip gives 2*8 W/8 ohm with a 12V battery so in that sense it's more than enough for casual listening.

Separating speaker boxes is common sense if you want the best out of these with an appropriate PR. TB radiators seem not to be. Simulate the response of these.

Frequency response on-axis according to manufacturer would suffice, but it wouldn't off-axis. That's a compromise one has to accept.

If I were to build myself one, I'd try to find a co-axial unit and work some kind of a crossover or at least use car audio units with just a cap on tweeter.
Hi Lojzek Thanks for your response!

The board uses 2 chips. One for 2x 50w (max) and one for 100w (max). I plan to drive it between 12v to 21v depending on what works best.

I thank you for the advice on using just 2 drivers and no sub. I kinda already have the drivers and amp so i will try it first before i buy other components such as coax speakers and stereo amp. The cost of printing the enclosure is almost 0 for me.

I have made a sealed version with bigger room for the Tang Band drivers. (see include picture) By looking at the boominator thread it would be a good idea to fill it these with light padding am i right? I have also angled the drivers a couple degrees outwards to give it a better stereo representation.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Pano View Post
Have yo looked thru the Boominator thread?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class...ght=boominator
There is likely a lot of info there to help you.
Thanks alot for this! I will have a look.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Sealedv2.JPG (135.4 KB, 235 views)
File Type: jpg Sealedv2-1.JPG (63.9 KB, 55 views)
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Old 6th March 2017, 07:07 PM   #5
Lojzek is offline Lojzek  Croatia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonicfury405 View Post
I have made a sealed version with bigger room for the Tang Band drivers. (see include picture) By looking at the boominator thread it would be a good idea to fill it these with light padding am i right?
Hey Sonic, absolutely! A good measure of lining on the walls should do the trick with some space left to freely pass the sound to a radiator. Here is simulated pics of the ideal radiator parameters with added 12 g of extra weight (Seas SP 18R). This is respectable performance for such a small midwoofer, although cranked up and the voice coil is out of the magnetic gap at lower tones. Best to play some music and see. If only you could add a steep high pass electronic filter at say 50Hz in order to protect the unit from overexcursion, that would be an awesome feature.
Attached Images
File Type: gif FR.gif (21.8 KB, 39 views)
File Type: gif IMP.gif (11.5 KB, 14 views)
File Type: gif EXC at 1W.gif (10.3 KB, 5 views)
File Type: gif EXC at 10W.gif (10.5 KB, 7 views)
File Type: png PR.png (29.0 KB, 7 views)
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Old 7th March 2017, 01:32 AM   #6
Dave R is offline Dave R  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lojzek View Post
If I were to build myself one, I'd try to find a co-axial unit and work some kind of a crossover or at least use car audio units with just a cap on tweeter.
That is the same idea that I'm going with right now. A pair of 3.5" car coax speakers in a 2 liter (net) closed box. The coax speakers have an in-line cap on the tweeter (courtesy of the manufacturer). Portability won out over bass extension on my coax project.

A dedicated woofer with attention to bass, acoustic isolation and treatment, and an appropriate crossover can definitely yield higher sound quality.
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File Type: jpg miniboom_front.jpg (154.9 KB, 74 views)
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Last edited by Dave R; 7th March 2017 at 01:34 AM.
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Old 7th March 2017, 08:50 AM   #7
Lojzek is offline Lojzek  Croatia
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Exactly, good thinking Dave. If there ever arises the need to complement the Tang Band wide band units with a tweeter, I'd first consider adding one like in a sketch, before spending additionally on coaxial stuff. Dayton has got ND 16 FA-6 driver with just 32,5 mm overall diameter and crossed at 4-5 kHz should perform well.
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File Type: png boombox.png (14.8 KB, 69 views)

Last edited by Lojzek; 7th March 2017 at 08:53 AM.
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Old 8th March 2017, 01:25 AM   #8
Dave R is offline Dave R  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonicfury405 View Post
i am using 2 Tangband W4-1337 SDF full range drivers and a ScanSpeak 5.5" driver as a Mid/Low bass woofer.

Total size will be 405mm wide 170mm high and 240mm deep.
Which 5.5" Scanspeak?
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Old 8th March 2017, 03:55 PM   #9
Sonicfury405 is offline Sonicfury405
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave R View Post
Which 5.5" Scanspeak?
Hi,

I am using the ScanSpeak 15W/8434G00.
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Old 8th March 2017, 05:46 PM   #10
Sonicfury405 is offline Sonicfury405
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lojzek View Post
Hey Sonic, absolutely! A good measure of lining on the walls should do the trick with some space left to freely pass the sound to a radiator. Here is simulated pics of the ideal radiator parameters with added 12 g of extra weight (Seas SP 18R). This is respectable performance for such a small midwoofer, although cranked up and the voice coil is out of the magnetic gap at lower tones. Best to play some music and see. If only you could add a steep high pass electronic filter at say 50Hz in order to protect the unit from overexcursion, that would be an awesome feature.
Hi Lojzek,

Thanks for your reply. I am thankful for you running that sim. I have to be honest that for a novice like learning curve is steep so thanks for helping me out.

I see you ran a sim with a passive radiator. The way i am planning to use them is to have the left and right driver (the Tangbands) sealed. Only the center woofer will be having 2 passive radiators. Else all 3 drivers would have to share the same air.


I will set the crossover to the center 5.5" Scanspeak between 200 and 300hz(?) for the low's. I forgot to mention the specific type of amp im using. This is the one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Blue...608.0.0.TRrICF

It can set treble, bass and a "subwoofer" crossover


Anyways, i have printed the front. Everything fits as intended. Looking good so far

Max.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20170308_193427 (Large).jpg (233.4 KB, 56 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20170308_193536 (Large).jpg (519.4 KB, 62 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20170308_193606 (Large).jpg (262.5 KB, 60 views)
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