In Bi-Amp, do you mean that there's a woofer, or two tweeters?
Compression drivers don't need lots of power, as far as I remember. They're quite a bit more sensitive than your usual woofer etc.
I know that, if you're looking for a rack mounted amplifier, skytec and qtc make some class a or ab amplifiers that provide +/- 150w/channel at 4Ohms.
These DIYAudio topics might be related:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/166535-what-amp-modules-compression-drivers-hifi-use.html
Compression drivers don't need lots of power, as far as I remember. They're quite a bit more sensitive than your usual woofer etc.
I know that, if you're looking for a rack mounted amplifier, skytec and qtc make some class a or ab amplifiers that provide +/- 150w/channel at 4Ohms.
These DIYAudio topics might be related:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/166535-what-amp-modules-compression-drivers-hifi-use.html
What type output levels will you need ? If you aren't going
much above 98 db Nelson's Amp Camp Amp might be all you
need. It will only be about 3W into 16 ohms but that might be
all you need.
I know horns/compression-drivers are very efficient drivers, but isn't that a bit too little? 98dB is ear-shatteringly loud at those frequencies, though.
There is a lot you can do with 100mW in this situation.. just saying.isn't that a bit too little?
If class A is on your radar, this is an opportunity for just about any you like the sound of. Valves can be good.
There is a lot you can do with 100mW in this situation.. just saying.
If class A is on your radar, this is an opportunity for just about any you like the sound of. Valves can be good.
Okay
You can run 8ohm compression drivers out of the headphone socket on most devices, and get reasonable SPLs.
I'd say the amplifier must be low-noise. If you can hear any hiss on normal speakers, there'll be +10dB (maybe more) on the compression drivers. That can be a lot.
Apart from that, so long as you've got enough clean power to get the SPLs you want, you'll be fine.
FWIW I run a 3" compression drivers on the 2nd channel of an NU6000DSP as part of my PA system. There's an annoying amount of background hiss on that, but power is adequate.
Chris
I'd say the amplifier must be low-noise. If you can hear any hiss on normal speakers, there'll be +10dB (maybe more) on the compression drivers. That can be a lot.
Apart from that, so long as you've got enough clean power to get the SPLs you want, you'll be fine.
FWIW I run a 3" compression drivers on the 2nd channel of an NU6000DSP as part of my PA system. There's an annoying amount of background hiss on that, but power is adequate.
Chris
No problem, but if you are thinking these amps are not quiet, I disagree.i want no noise , no hiss , noise free amp , i am afraid , tube is out of the game , but i may be wrong ;-)
Tube amps can be very quiet, they aren't usually particularly noisy.
One thing I would be VERY careful about, though, is to avoid amps that might have a turn-on or turn-off "thump" -- if you use those to directly drive a compression tweeter, it can damage the diaphragm from the near-DC pulse. One way around it is to drive the compression driver through a series capacitor (something like 33uF or so), but best might be to choose an amp that doesn't thump when it turns on or off.
One thing I would be VERY careful about, though, is to avoid amps that might have a turn-on or turn-off "thump" -- if you use those to directly drive a compression tweeter, it can damage the diaphragm from the near-DC pulse. One way around it is to drive the compression driver through a series capacitor (something like 33uF or so), but best might be to choose an amp that doesn't thump when it turns on or off.
with a horn driver.. I measured the p-p voltage when I am playing it louder than I can listen to it... it was just over .65 volts !!!!!!! .. The driver I measured was a Great Plains 902-8A so any set amp with 2 or 3 watts is enough for home use with power to spare !... 2.83v = 1 watt at 8 ohms....
Good lord can you hear all the ringing?
Good lord can you hear all the ringing?
Nelson posted this a while back. And although it calls for a 24v powersupply I assume it would be more than happy with a cheep 19v laptop power supply.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/265557-simple-follower.html#post4179496
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/265557-simple-follower.html#post4179496
Nelson posted this a while back. And although it calls for a 24v powersupply I assume it would be more than happy with a cheep 19v laptop power supply.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/265557-simple-follower.html#post4179496
That's what i call a good advice
tank you
.
Hiss or noice is a real problem with copression drivers. I have JBL 2445 and 2404 and have tryed 3110 2.1 board from Kina and 4xT1 from HiFiMeDIY. Bouth have to much hiss. Bouth amps work and sound very good. But 111db/1W is soo sensitive that you can hear anything.
The 3110 can be altered to 20db gain and that helps. T1 must be restricted wit L pad resistors that works when the eq is before the power amplifier.
So now with about 14db atunation from LPad I have very silent background hiss. In Najda preamp DSP prosessor ja still restrict hi and mid by about 7db so I can still inprove. And the sound is very nice given that I have done tens of hours DSP analysing and filter design.
I think this is the end of the road for D amps for me in the upper register. But I don`t think that there is a better alternative than D close to the base register as there you need a lot of power reserve and low down hiss is not reproduced.
The 3110 can be altered to 20db gain and that helps. T1 must be restricted wit L pad resistors that works when the eq is before the power amplifier.
So now with about 14db atunation from LPad I have very silent background hiss. In Najda preamp DSP prosessor ja still restrict hi and mid by about 7db so I can still inprove. And the sound is very nice given that I have done tens of hours DSP analysing and filter design.
I think this is the end of the road for D amps for me in the upper register. But I don`t think that there is a better alternative than D close to the base register as there you need a lot of power reserve and low down hiss is not reproduced.
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