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Highest SQ and SPL midbass drivers and sub/midwoofers?
Highest SQ and SPL midbass drivers and sub/midwoofers?
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Old 13th March 2004, 08:48 PM   #1
Loud and Proud is offline Loud and Proud  United States
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Default Highest SQ and SPL midbass drivers and sub/midwoofers?

I would like to find a high SQ and high SPL midbass driver. Power: around 200-300 watts, RMS real world power.

Impedance for the midbass drivers: anywhere from 2-8 ohms.

Also, what is a good subwoofer (midwoofer?) driver for about 60-240 Hz, very high sound quality, very accurate, small box volume, (prefer 1 cubic foot or less) about 300-400 watts RMS real world power. I already have three JL Audio 18W6s for the infrasonic-up-to-60Hz lows, but I want some fast-attacking subs/midwoofers for the higher bass accuracy in the upper bass spectrum.

Impedance for the subwoofers? Not really critical.

Cost? around $150 US or so for the midbass drivers, but that is flexible, same with about $250 US for the subwoofers

If you want to include your reasons for your choice for whatever you recommend, please do!

And, of course, I know you can achieve great sound quality with just one subwoofer and a pair of tweeters and mids, but I am looking for public address system performance with SQ competition winner sound quality. Thus, the extra speakers for when I park it and have a concert. When I am in the car with the windows up, I know I do not need that much volume at all. I don't need too much volume when I have the doors open when it is parked, either. But I want that volume in about a 100 foot radius or more.

This isn't about in-vehicle SPL. This is about in-car and out-of-car large-area sound quality.

In short, a mobile Party Wagon!
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Old 13th March 2004, 10:31 PM   #2
GM is offline GM  United States
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Cinema sound drivers seems the obvious choice for the performance goals, but they will require much larger cabs and unless you can find them used in good condition, they are well beyond your budget.

Dial it back a few notches and Peerless components may suffice.

GM
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Old 14th March 2004, 02:42 PM   #3
kan3 is offline kan3  United States
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well if you want to do IB mount then the 8ib4 / 10ib4 are quite awesome drivers

and they're honestly not that hard to find if you try
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Old 15th March 2004, 12:03 AM   #4
Loud and Proud is offline Loud and Proud  United States
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How about them PHL drivers from Fronce? They seem to have a driver for every single possible application at any given size.

http://www.phlaudio.com/main.html

And, I would prefer sealed to IB. IB would blow the skins off my doors, where the (up to) 4 eights will be going, one day, if all goes well.

I am looking at about 2000 watts for the 18s, another 2000 for the tens, another 2000 or so for the eights, if I use eight of them, that is, and whatever my mids and highs can handle.

Since everything will be fitting, if this goes off (when that lottery pays off, finally) then it will all be within the car. Thus huge cabinets can't be used because then I would be eliminating interior space. So I would need small-box drivers for sure.
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Old 15th March 2004, 02:10 AM   #5
kan3 is offline kan3  United States
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PHL's drivers are VERY nice and should get the levels of sound your looking for =]
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Old 16th March 2004, 03:38 AM   #6
Loud and Proud is offline Loud and Proud  United States
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They looked good from what I could see on the site. Tell me what you know about them for SQ, etc, if you would? I would REALLY appreciated it!
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Old 22nd March 2004, 08:46 AM   #7
Loud and Proud is offline Loud and Proud  United States
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Any experience with PHLs? Anyone? Exact drivers, exact prices?
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Old 23rd March 2004, 06:47 AM   #8
thylantyr is offline thylantyr  United States
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If you want to build a sound system to achieve concert SPL and
audiophile SQ, then you need to prepare yourself for a big project.

A van makes a nice vehicle for the project because you have
more options to fit prosound drivers, ie., compression horns,
8" - 12" midrange drivers, 12" - 15" midbass drivers and monster
high xmax subwoofers, perhaps some 15" or 18".

Cost? around $150 US or so for the midbass drivers, but that is flexible, same with about $250 US for the subwoofers

If this is your budget, then it's going to be a difficult to impossible
task. JBL 15" midbass drivers cost about $500 ea. Lambda 'faraday
motor' woofers will cost just under $300 regardless of size. Apollo
motor Lambdas cost just under $500.

PHL 1120 midrange is $137 (6.5") and the higher power version PHL1660 cost $199 (6.5") and the 8" PHL 2520 (or 2521) cost about $250 ea. PHL 3450 (3451) is even more, this 10" midrange is
interesting for certain applications.
http://www.e-speakers.com/products/phl-mid.html

For car (not van) applications, these horn drivers are popular for
ease of installation in your front stage.
http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/webs...cts/horns.html

I also have some planar tweeters that I like, they cost 6 bills ea.

I am looking at about 2000 watts for the 18s, another 2000 for the tens, another 2000 or so for the eights, if I use eight of them, that is, and whatever my mids and highs can handle.

Can you provide more detail on where these drivers will be installed?

How many tweeters, midrange, midbass, woofers? Locations?

SQ competition winner sound quality.

/hehe

I'm not a fan of SQ competitions because you are trying to
satisfy judges and a rule book and it's all subjective. What sounds
bad to me, may win me trophies or visa versa

If you enjoy audio it makes more sense to design for your style
of listening and it's difficult to help design a system in cyberspace
because the 'customer' is not able to audition drivers

I like to start system design with the tweeters and work down
whereas most people like to start with subwoofers and work up.
/hehe

If you know what type of tweeter you can fit and if you know it's
abilities, then finding the midrange next would be easier because
there is more choices -- harder to find an exceptional tweeter --.

After you find the matching midrange, the next step would be to
find the midbass solution -- perhaps 60hz - 500hz range give or
take.

Subwoofers are a no brainer, there is more than enough solutions
in this region of audio.
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