http://www.usspeaker.com/beyma 12p80Nd-1.htm
Seems easy enough to build a Klam bolt on
But do the parameters suit?
Seems easy enough to build a Klam bolt on
But do the parameters suit?
its a beautiful driver - extremely low qts - - is there a reason you want a klam other than a regular Karlson? (K12) - cutoff for a klam would probably be around 100Hz with a sealed back chamber. Also, a klam can have some artifacts up close due to the driver sitting back and firing against the aperture plates. I can take a video/audio of my Klam 12 and upload to YouTube
i would say the regular K offers a more perfect opportunity for great sound but of course, you can make a bolt-on klam to get some idea of the effect. When I think of "klam" , I'm thinking of a K-coupler as below. If your box is tall enough then you can have a shallow front chamber as with a regular Karlson.
that driver excited my expert K-friend
"What a great find.
First step: I would try this in a K15 to start with. JEK sold a 15K with a cutout for a 12. One application I am aware of was an organ.
The port should be narrowed to drop the Fb to about 38 Hz. The mass loading will lower the installed frequency at least to that value. The back volume can easily be adjusted by adding blocks. Look for higher efficiency at 45 hz than with most 15 inch speakers.
Step 2: Trim down the depth to optimum based on step 1 results.
Make sure to add the braces per my earlier posts.
As an alternate try the X15 size using the steps above. If you go that way we have a lot of experience with several apertures. My guess is that it would be hard to beat on keyboards and media with high transient content.
I might try it myself."
Klam I've seen have 23 to 38 degree angles above horizontal for their K-coupler with 23
for original Karlson clam/klam
a steeper angle reduces the length - here's one with 38 degrees and a square baffle
imo reflections are intense with the klam form - that may not be a problem with listeners some distance away. The original way of mounting the driver down at the wide portion of the slot where
coupler depth is shallow is more neutral.
that driver excited my expert K-friend
"What a great find.
First step: I would try this in a K15 to start with. JEK sold a 15K with a cutout for a 12. One application I am aware of was an organ.
The port should be narrowed to drop the Fb to about 38 Hz. The mass loading will lower the installed frequency at least to that value. The back volume can easily be adjusted by adding blocks. Look for higher efficiency at 45 hz than with most 15 inch speakers.
Step 2: Trim down the depth to optimum based on step 1 results.
Make sure to add the braces per my earlier posts.
As an alternate try the X15 size using the steps above. If you go that way we have a lot of experience with several apertures. My guess is that it would be hard to beat on keyboards and media with high transient content.
I might try it myself."
Klam I've seen have 23 to 38 degree angles above horizontal for their K-coupler with 23
for original Karlson clam/klam
a steeper angle reduces the length - here's one with 38 degrees and a square baffle
imo reflections are intense with the klam form - that may not be a problem with listeners some distance away. The original way of mounting the driver down at the wide portion of the slot where
coupler depth is shallow is more neutral.
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