I inherited a pair of speakers from my uncle who recently passed away. I'm interested in changing the caps and cleaning the mid range switch, but this would be my very first electronics project, so I am seeking some help.
The crossover uses non polarized caps in the following resistances with a voltage value of 25 WV:
24 MFD (I think this is millifarad?)
8 MFD
3 MFD
2 MFD
There is another two per speaker listed as 5W 16ohms.
I'm not sure what the large white discs are, they look like transformers of some kind.
Questions:
1. I can only find caps that are bipolar in 22 microfarad, will this be interchangeable with the 24 MFD caps?
2. I'm interested in cleaning the switch, if I use deoxit, can I spray down the whole switch liberally, or do I need to be careful of overspray and apply more carefully to only the switch contacts?
3. What type of capacitor do you recommend? (I've been looking at the Nichicon DB-GB caps, since they're advertised for crossovers, but, they have a different shape (leads both coming out of same end).
4. What is the small green 5W/16ohm cap?
5. What are the large white discs (transformers) and should they (or can they) be replaced?
Thanks for any help, I have attached reference photos of good quality.
https://imgur.com/a/DAuLT
-Kevin
The crossover uses non polarized caps in the following resistances with a voltage value of 25 WV:
24 MFD (I think this is millifarad?)
8 MFD
3 MFD
2 MFD
There is another two per speaker listed as 5W 16ohms.
I'm not sure what the large white discs are, they look like transformers of some kind.
Questions:
1. I can only find caps that are bipolar in 22 microfarad, will this be interchangeable with the 24 MFD caps?
2. I'm interested in cleaning the switch, if I use deoxit, can I spray down the whole switch liberally, or do I need to be careful of overspray and apply more carefully to only the switch contacts?
3. What type of capacitor do you recommend? (I've been looking at the Nichicon DB-GB caps, since they're advertised for crossovers, but, they have a different shape (leads both coming out of same end).
4. What is the small green 5W/16ohm cap?
5. What are the large white discs (transformers) and should they (or can they) be replaced?
Thanks for any help, I have attached reference photos of good quality.
https://imgur.com/a/DAuLT
-Kevin
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I have not tested them yet, no... just opened up the speakers. I read a lot on line about people observing recessed mids and highs and the solution being a re-cap. This set also has severely recessed mids and highs, they sound very veiled and not reaching a balanced level with the bass and mid bass, which sounds amazing.
The microfarad values seem very odd, all even numbers 2, 3, 8, and 24, and I only find equivalent in commonly available caps as 2.2, 3.3, 10, and 22...
Thanks for responding, any additional advice regarding my other comments?
Yeah, Bennic polyesters should be more than up to the task of replacing the most likely well aged NPE caps. One could argue adnauseam as to the sonic improvements from boutique caps in such a speaker, so let's not.
If exact values are not available, just stack multiples in parallel to achieve the required amount - although to be honest, a 10% difference might make a difference in a software modeller, but perhaps be not be all that discernible to the ear.
The "large white discs" will be inductors for LP functions - not a transformer unless secondary coil(s) are involved. They seldom wear out - the current levels required to do so would almost certainly destroy the drivers first- and in many cases minor degrees of attenuation due to their DCR will be included in the crossover design, so even if lower gauge (thicker) units would fit physically or budget-wise, "upgrading" them is not always to your advantage.
If exact values are not available, just stack multiples in parallel to achieve the required amount - although to be honest, a 10% difference might make a difference in a software modeller, but perhaps be not be all that discernible to the ear.
The "large white discs" will be inductors for LP functions - not a transformer unless secondary coil(s) are involved. They seldom wear out - the current levels required to do so would almost certainly destroy the drivers first- and in many cases minor degrees of attenuation due to their DCR will be included in the crossover design, so even if lower gauge (thicker) units would fit physically or budget-wise, "upgrading" them is not always to your advantage.
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Thank you! The Bennic (at least from madisound) all appear to be the same common (not matching the values on my caps) 2.2, 3.3, 10, 22 mfd values. Those are a goo ways off from the values I have of 2,3,8,24. Also, any suggestion for sourcing the 5w/16ohm resistors?
just recently stumbled across the Howard's products - fabulous stuff -.
If the veneer on the Sansui's is of the same quality (i.e. thickness) as the last 4 pair of vintage JBLs and Tannoy Westminsters I recently refinished, you can sand out many smaller scratches / scuffs and even the very common waterstains with a random orbit and 220 G - just be very carefully near edges. Suntan / aging of the actual veneer is a bit more fun to deal with.
The Orange Oil /Beeswax Feed & Wax certainly does that with decades old dried out veneers that may not have been periodically waxed / oiled. I know I certainly never did that with any of my dozens of pairs of speakers over the years. Of course from around '75 to '91 there were many pairs I didn't keep long enough to need maintenance.
If the veneer on the Sansui's is of the same quality (i.e. thickness) as the last 4 pair of vintage JBLs and Tannoy Westminsters I recently refinished, you can sand out many smaller scratches / scuffs and even the very common waterstains with a random orbit and 220 G - just be very carefully near edges. Suntan / aging of the actual veneer is a bit more fun to deal with.
The Orange Oil /Beeswax Feed & Wax certainly does that with decades old dried out veneers that may not have been periodically waxed / oiled. I know I certainly never did that with any of my dozens of pairs of speakers over the years. Of course from around '75 to '91 there were many pairs I didn't keep long enough to need maintenance.
the veneers are still in pretty good shape, just losing some of their shine. Very minimal damage/scratches that would require sanding through the stain layer. That is why I am using Howard... will try 000 or 0000 steel wool, and apply as instructed, then finish with the feed n wax in two coats. all told, this project will be under $100, and even if I don't like the speakers sound when I am done, I will have learned something, and can use them in my garage or something.
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