.
What is it that puts you away of a tweeter that can handle 10W? I think this is the least important parameter to consider for a tweeter. And the 89db SPL is absolutely fine, considering it saves you a resistor in a 2.5 way.
Specwise they look attractive, the PFC line has high price/performance ratio, even if it requires a more sophisticated crossover.
Specwise they look attractive, the PFC line has high price/performance ratio, even if it requires a more sophisticated crossover.
That's the dirty part of speculating, I don't have any CSD or distortion measurements to look at. With those specs I don't expect it to outperform a 10$ ND25FA-4. Depending on price it might be very good for the money but it won't be good.
Guess I was hoping for a high end coax to be available for the diy crowd.
Were can I find info on pricing?
Guess I was hoping for a high end coax to be available for the diy crowd.
Were can I find info on pricing?
Yes, it'd likely be the power handling on the woofer (30W this case) that would be a limiting factor.
There are some other quite interesting drivers on the coming soon page - we'll just have to await pricing and availability information. It's hard to tell from the photo whether the XO is attached, and how elaborate it might be. Those are often very compromised and might well be a candidate for outboarding with better quality parts than a $.10 BPE cap such as I've seen on budget priced coaxes for ceiling mounting for background soud.
Yup, could make an interesting option for mid/top in a modest multiway.
What about the plastic chassis? - there are lots more of them around these days, including on some pretty decent performing small woofers - Alpair 12PW, for example.
There are some other quite interesting drivers on the coming soon page - we'll just have to await pricing and availability information. It's hard to tell from the photo whether the XO is attached, and how elaborate it might be. Those are often very compromised and might well be a candidate for outboarding with better quality parts than a $.10 BPE cap such as I've seen on budget priced coaxes for ceiling mounting for background soud.
Yup, could make an interesting option for mid/top in a modest multiway.
What about the plastic chassis? - there are lots more of them around these days, including on some pretty decent performing small woofers - Alpair 12PW, for example.
Doesn't look like they put much effort into mating up the tweeter properly to the cones, or changing the cone geometry to better act as a waveguide for the tweeter.
The 4" obviously has far from optimal cone geometry for functioning as a waveguide for the tweeter - non existent top octave on axis, peak at 5K, no significant gain on the tweeter below 4K.
The 5" looks like it might be usable if you can hammer the tweeter response into proper slope - 3kHz LR4 probably. The top octave of the tweeter doesn't seem to be totally destroyed like the other two. A healthy amount of gain from 1-4K on the tweeter should help lower tweeter distortion.
The 6" has more problems in the top two octaves than the 5".
The 4" obviously has far from optimal cone geometry for functioning as a waveguide for the tweeter - non existent top octave on axis, peak at 5K, no significant gain on the tweeter below 4K.
The 5" looks like it might be usable if you can hammer the tweeter response into proper slope - 3kHz LR4 probably. The top octave of the tweeter doesn't seem to be totally destroyed like the other two. A healthy amount of gain from 1-4K on the tweeter should help lower tweeter distortion.
The 6" has more problems in the top two octaves than the 5".
I wouldn't use any coaxial full-range, due to severe IMD when the woofer cone moves significantly. Cross it to an 8" woofer at a couple hundred Hz and 30W should be fine.
Should be fine. The thing I worry about most with plastic chassis are longevity - cracking/warping, especially if your speakers are in a harsh environment (hot/cold/sunlight).
Last edited:
Those coax drivers are interesting, but why on earth did they come up with this horrible non-cirulcar mouning flange!? These flanges are a major PITA for flush mounting on the baffle. Circular flanges are certainly preferred because they are so much easier with a router. And they look better IMHO.
I didn't mind these frames for their conventional woofers as they allow closer center to center distances. When used surface mounted with a flush mounted tweeter, the acoustic centers can line up. But for this application, it appears these frames were used due to cost only(tooling already existing, low material cost).
This is clearly stated as an OEM driver. Any OEM manufacturer that would use this driver would have a router and CAD files. This design allows for closer mount to the tweeter, slimmer front baffle and uses less plastics in the manufacturing.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.