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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Wharfedale W60 crossovers
Wharfedale W60 crossovers
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Old 19th January 2016, 03:31 PM   #11
Ggizzy is offline Ggizzy  United States
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Thanks, I had read good things about people using them in these older Wharfedale speakers.

What resistive value would I use in place of the l-pad? Would it be essentially a straight swap?
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Old 20th January 2016, 12:19 AM   #12
system7 is offline system7  United Kingdom
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If we are to trust this wiring diagram...and it ought to be a simple coil on the bass with yours...

Click the image to open in full size.

A 20R pot might be replaced by two 10R resistors for a middle setting.

A 50R pot might be replaced by 10R and 40R, if that is the setting you like.

A saw what looks like an old pair of Wharfedale Melton 2 in a local shop tonight. It was dark, but they were either Celestion or Wharfedale 12" bass and tweeter.

Will check them out tomorrow. My second ever speakers!
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File Type: jpg Wharfedale Melton 2.JPG (37.9 KB, 94 views)
File Type: jpg Wharfedale_Melton_2_Crossover.JPG (56.2 KB, 217 views)
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Old 21st January 2016, 11:32 PM   #13
Ggizzy is offline Ggizzy  United States
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Those soun fantastic. I really have enjoyes these speakers, even with one handicapped as it is!

For the 10 ohm/40 ohm option- does it matter which leg receives which resistor? Thanks...I have never fooled with speaker crossovers before!
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Old 22nd January 2016, 12:53 AM   #14
system7 is offline system7  United Kingdom
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The Meltons are 45. With 10" bass I guess. Interesting transparent dustcap, through which you could see the voicecoil former. Probably AlNiCo magnets at that vintage.

Must be very old from the look of them. Later sixties with the brown grilles, probably. But the tweeters were some sort of black 1" soft dome, which I don't think is original at all. They usually came with the purple plastic cones in a little cup-type enclosure, which fried rather easily.

Back to your question. Yes it does matter what order the resistors go. Boxsim came up with this for another 10" bass and cone tweeter. But your speakers may work entirely differently. You can only try to get back to the original layout and hope for the best.
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File Type: png Wharfedale W60.PNG (5.3 KB, 113 views)
File Type: png Wharfedale W60 FR.PNG (16.4 KB, 76 views)
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Old 22nd January 2016, 01:28 AM   #15
Ggizzy is offline Ggizzy  United States
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I guess I'll try giving that diagram a go. I am really a novice when it comes to this stuff. I don't want to blow anything!
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Old 22nd January 2016, 01:50 AM   #16
system7 is offline system7  United Kingdom
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You've gotta trace the wiring from the inputs to the outputs. Draw a diagram.

Click the image to open in full size.

I can't really guess what the polarity on the tweeter is or even the impedance of the drivers. I'm usually quite cautious about avoiding amplifier blowup though. Keep it above 4 ohms in the shunt path.
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Old 22nd January 2016, 02:46 PM   #17
Ggizzy is offline Ggizzy  United States
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Well, I am snowed in for the time being, so I went ahead and diagramed the Wharfedale crossover. I am not sure of the inductor's value or the specifics of the woofer and tweeter in these 2-way speakers. They do not appear to be labeled other than with the Wharfedale brand and their country of origin. There is a patent number on the back of the tweeter, if that would help.

I'm guessing that if I were to use the 40/10ohm combination, I'd play the 10 ohm in the shunt? I am still a bit confused on the issue. I appreciate your kindness and patience.
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Old 22nd January 2016, 05:54 PM   #18
eriksquires is offline eriksquires  United States
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Well, that's going to be an easy crossover to upgrade! I love it.

Those inductors will probably last forerver, but I would not be able to help myself and would have to replace it with a copper foil or Jantzen toroidal.

Best,


Erik
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Old 22nd January 2016, 09:42 PM   #19
Ggizzy is offline Ggizzy  United States
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Thanks for the reply.

So I would just substitute two resistors where the lpad is in circuit? The 10 ohm going to ground through the shunt and the 40 ohm before the inductor between that and the cap? Or should I place the resistors in the positions indicated in Steve's diagram?

Last edited by Ggizzy; 22nd January 2016 at 09:47 PM.
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Old 23rd January 2016, 01:52 AM   #20
system7 is offline system7  United Kingdom
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That circuit you drew makes no sense at all. The 50 ohm potentiometer is seeing full amplifier output. It will fry. It must come after the capacitor, like in the Wharfedale original print. Adding a coil to the bass path is trivial.

Click the image to open in full size.

The full 50R strip shorts the live point after the capacitor to earth, and the slider adjustable tag connects to the tweeter +ve, and earth is earth for the tweeter. Then it behaves like a volume control. The two resistive arms of the potentiometer add up to 50 ohms, by, er, Ohm's Law.

Of course it won't measure that way with a 4-16 ohm tweeter adding a contribution to a multimeter measurement. But the idea is you set up the pot the way you like it, measure the two legs and replace with hardwired resistors.
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