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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Speaker enclosure size for 2x 6.5"?
Speaker enclosure size for 2x 6.5"?
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Old 23rd October 2015, 01:27 PM   #31
marvinorman is offline marvinorman  Sweden
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Conclusion:

I have two bass/mid-range drivers, but only of them produces bass. It's not even producing any mid-bass thump. As if the bass-driver was a tweeter.

I now bought a proper adapter for the 3-pin to aux, but the problem is still there.

I tried switching the input cable around on the amp, which makes the left speaker the right channel, and the right speaker the left channel. The issue is then still there, only now, it's the other driver that is not producing bass. So the speakers are fine. Both speakers play equally when tested on another amp.

Would that result in the issue being the amp itself? I tried with different power adapters as well, one is 12V 1A with DC-DC converter to 32V. The other one is 24V 2.5A. Maybe they are too weak for the amp to be able to produce enough power to drive both speakers to equal bass? Or is that completely irrelevant?

If it is the amp, is there any modifications I can do to turn both channels into mono, if that would somehow solve the issue?
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Old 23rd October 2015, 02:32 PM   #32
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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Can you see the cone moving when one bass driver is operating?

When two bass drivers are coupled, can you see any movement in either cone?
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Old 23rd October 2015, 02:49 PM   #33
marvinorman is offline marvinorman  Sweden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewT View Post
Can you see the cone moving when one bass driver is operating?

When two bass drivers are coupled, can you see any movement in either cone?
When coupled, only one of the bass drivers has movement. Although when I put my hand against the cone, i can feel small vibrations.

Although It's possible that it's not playing at all and the small vibrations I feel is from the enclosure which might be vibrating the cone a small amount. I can feel a lot of vibrations and movement on the speaker that is operating correctly.


When plugging the aux cable to my PC, with both speakers connected and playing, I turned down the volume on the channel with the correctly operating speaker and left the "faulty" speaker's channel on 100%. I then only hear high frequency sounds (maybe upper mid-high) frequency. But there is no bass what so ever.

When reversing this and leaving the channel at 100% volume on the speaker that is operating correctly, and turning down the channel volume all the way down to zero on the speaker that is not, I hear all frequencies, including all the bass.

It's possible that I only hear the tweeter when only playing the "faulty" speaker. The tweeter goes down to 4000 Hz so i'm not sure if the speaker is even playing at all.
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Old 23rd October 2015, 03:14 PM   #34
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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That "vibration test" may be confirming that the second driver is not receiving any significant electrical signal.
That prompts me to ask:
Is connecting the second interconnect somehow shorting the input signal so that only one amplifier is receiving a valid signal?

Can you measure the input and output signals of the amplifiers for all the different interconnection options?
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Old 23rd October 2015, 05:03 PM   #35
marvinorman is offline marvinorman  Sweden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewT View Post
That "vibration test" may be confirming that the second driver is not receiving any significant electrical signal.
That prompts me to ask:
Is connecting the second interconnect somehow shorting the input signal so that only one amplifier is receiving a valid signal?

Can you measure the input and output signals of the amplifiers for all the different interconnection options?
Unfortunately I don't have any measuring equipment, but if i come across any, i'll make sure to do that.

Now the amp only costs $15 so it doesn't matter all that much really. But I really liked the sound quality of it and the power it can produce, so I would like to order a new one. But I want to rule out everything else, so i'm certain that it's the amp that is faulty before I order a new one. Since they ship them from china and it takes a decade until it arrives.
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Old 23rd October 2015, 06:20 PM   #36
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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I was asking about a possible wiring error that shorts out the input signal.
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Old 23rd October 2015, 07:15 PM   #37
marvinorman is offline marvinorman  Sweden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewT View Post
I was asking about a possible wiring error that shorts out the input signal.
Well, not from my part at least. If you are talking about the amplifier itself, as in I should follow/measure the connections to look for any errors that could possibly be shorting the connections?
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Old 14th September 2018, 02:40 PM   #38
Cooper72 is offline Cooper72
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Default Bluetooth box

I'm building a Bluetooth box with two 6.5" bass/midrange driver with tweeters. I do have specs on the speakers they are SKAR FSX65 4 ohms. Any suggestions on the dimenions of the box would be or if sealed or ported is better?
thank you
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Old 15th September 2018, 01:14 AM   #39
PRR is offline PRR  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cooper72 View Post
... two 6.5" bass/midrange ... I do have specs on the speakers they are SKAR FSX65....
Do you have the acoustic specs? Or just the blurb on the website? (It does not even cite a typical resonant frequency. It does say "midrange", not mid-bass.)

You won't go wrong with this rule of thumb. Multiply the advertised diameter by 1.1. Cube that. Build a sealed box that size for each speaker.

6.5" * 1.1 = 7.15
7.15^3 = 365 cubic inches (0.21 cubic feet, 6 liters)

You can go 20% smaller or up to twice as large-- usually other factors govern what you want to do.

With small speakers, ported means a much larger box and some real math, including figuring cone-slap below Fb. A six-inch worked LOUD will usually be better as a sealed box.

"300 Watts" for 20 bucks is preposterous-- do not believe the "specs" on low-price speakers.
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