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Join Date: Apr 2010
Quote:
 Originally Posted by Patrick Bateman posts one through four of this thread describe that: step 1: draw two circles. One circle is at the throat and one is at the mouth. step 2: connect the two circles with a line that's tangent to both. step 3: repeat steps one and two to define the *outer* wall of the waveguide. (Steps 1 and 2 define the inner wall.) step 4: extrude that shape. step 5: copy that piece from step 3, three times. step 6: now you have the four walls of your waveguide. Arrange those pieces based on the diameter of your radiator. If you want to get fancy, and you probably do, you can use different angels or the horizontal and vertical walls. The instructions described here will create a waveguide where the horizontal and vertical are identical. Another trick that you can do, to get varying vertical and horizontal angles, is to arrange the pieces in a rectangle even though you need a square throat. For instance, if you need a square throat that measures one inch by one inch, but you make the throat 1.5" by 1", then you can "squash" the entire shape to make the vertical and horizontal asymmetrical. I like this trick a lot because this solution is way WAY easier than trying to figure out the correct angle to get the asymmetrical pieces to meet at the mouth. If you do a google search on the forum I've posted these solutions scattered all over a few threads. I'm not the most organized person lol site:diyaudio.com bateman 123D - Google Search When you do this search, click on the "images" tab
Thanks PB. I wont be starting with a square but a rectangle.

Here is the TPL200
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But I will have a look at the steps you mention in a few hours and see how I go.

 8th August 2019, 06:30 PM #32 Patrick Bateman   diyAudio Member     Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: San Diego FYI - A few tips on using ath4 to make a waveguide in the real world: "Mesh.AngularSegments" and "Mesh.DepthSegments" are largely responsible for the polygon count of the 3D model. So if your waveguide has way more polygons than you want to deal with, adjust those. Also, when converting your mesh into a solid in Meshmixer, I found that I got better results when I selected "Create new object" under "Make solid part" in Meshmixer. I don't know if that step is required, but I found that when I imported the solid into Autodesk 123D, the solid sometimes had "holes" until I selected that.
 11th August 2019, 08:41 AM #33 mrk7   diyAudio Member     Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: GC Thanks for the tips!

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