Hi Everyone,
I just got lucky and picked a pair of ancient Celestion 10 loudspeakers off a roadside pickup.
The problem is no crossovers inside, the speakers are in as new condition. No scratches or marks, even the Tygan grilles are perfect. It looks as though these had the X/O removed and then put away for storage, maybe the owner planned to upgrade the X/O, who knows?
Can anyone out there supply with a schematic of the original X/O? I am willing to pay for any info or even the original X/O
Cheers,
Peter.
I just got lucky and picked a pair of ancient Celestion 10 loudspeakers off a roadside pickup.
The problem is no crossovers inside, the speakers are in as new condition. No scratches or marks, even the Tygan grilles are perfect. It looks as though these had the X/O removed and then put away for storage, maybe the owner planned to upgrade the X/O, who knows?
Can anyone out there supply with a schematic of the original X/O? I am willing to pay for any info or even the original X/O
Cheers,
Peter.
I expect you're struggling to post an image if you are new here. 
Are these Celestion Ditton 10 speakers with the famous old Celestion HF1300 tweeter, and maybe a 5 or 6" paper bass?
I think this can be done. The Ditton 15 used that tweeter on a second order cap (4.7uF?) and coil tweeter crossover, with just a coil on the bass. So we can have a stab at this.
Are these Celestion Ditton 10 speakers with the famous old Celestion HF1300 tweeter, and maybe a 5 or 6" paper bass?
I think this can be done. The Ditton 15 used that tweeter on a second order cap (4.7uF?) and coil tweeter crossover, with just a coil on the bass. So we can have a stab at this.
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I was looking at that midbass... it looks suspiciously like the same 150mm unit used in the Celestion Ditton 44 as a pure mid!
And why not?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
And why not?
Hello Mr Ponsford,
Thanks for getting back to me, been a bit busy with hospital. The tweeter is indeed the old HF1300, the paper cone bass/mid is very similar if not the same as the 44 mid. The little five incher sounds good running full range I have tried them using my DEQX and the result quite superb for an oldie. The DEQX and my Sonoras' are a bit of overkill though.
A simple XO would be very nice, I'll run them off my old VM integrated.
Cheers,
Peter.
Thanks for getting back to me, been a bit busy with hospital. The tweeter is indeed the old HF1300, the paper cone bass/mid is very similar if not the same as the 44 mid. The little five incher sounds good running full range I have tried them using my DEQX and the result quite superb for an oldie. The DEQX and my Sonoras' are a bit of overkill though.
A simple XO would be very nice, I'll run them off my old VM integrated.
Cheers,
Peter.
Aw Peter, I hope you are now in good health! I was wondering, AS I OFTEN DO, if I was talking to myself here...
I like to get a feel for a project, because I don't do hack work. So I read Troels Gravesen on the HF1300 tweeter:
Spendor BC1
And I thought the Vifa PL14WJ must be pretty similar to the Celestion 5" paper mid looking at the simpler MTM circuit: Vifa PL14WJ-
I'm thinking we just give the bass 2mH and 6.2uF. 3kHz crossover. The tweeter might normally get a series resistor around 10R and 22R shunted across it. 3.3uF and 0.3mH. But I really don't know. 4.7uF and 0.2mH can work too.
HW 2/70 NG - 8 Ohm
Visaton's crossover is actually better suited to a 4 ohm bass.
I want to know the DC resistance of the tweeter, since it might be a 16 ohm jobbie, around 12R resistance with a multimeter. Might as well measure the midbass resistance while you are at it. Ought to be 6R.
I like to get a feel for a project, because I don't do hack work. So I read Troels Gravesen on the HF1300 tweeter:
Spendor BC1
And I thought the Vifa PL14WJ must be pretty similar to the Celestion 5" paper mid looking at the simpler MTM circuit: Vifa PL14WJ-
I'm thinking we just give the bass 2mH and 6.2uF. 3kHz crossover. The tweeter might normally get a series resistor around 10R and 22R shunted across it. 3.3uF and 0.3mH. But I really don't know. 4.7uF and 0.2mH can work too.
HW 2/70 NG - 8 Ohm
Visaton's crossover is actually better suited to a 4 ohm bass.
I want to know the DC resistance of the tweeter, since it might be a 16 ohm jobbie, around 12R resistance with a multimeter. Might as well measure the midbass resistance while you are at it. Ought to be 6R.
Hi, Steve!
Got a similar situation here. I've recently picked up a pair of Celestion Ditton 10 and want to upgrade the crossovers, because original ones do not seem to perform well anymore.
Which new crossovers are a suitable replacement? Or should I build those by myself?
Thanks!
King regards,
Hlib
Got a similar situation here. I've recently picked up a pair of Celestion Ditton 10 and want to upgrade the crossovers, because original ones do not seem to perform well anymore.
Which new crossovers are a suitable replacement? Or should I build those by myself?
Thanks!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
King regards,
Hlib
There are plenty of on line free sites to assists in all aspects of cabinet and crossover design.
Me personally i would convert these into 3-way by the addition of a small, sealed back driver. I've never liked the sound of 2-way speakers, 3-way just sounds smoother, more detailed - just my personal thought
Me personally i would convert these into 3-way by the addition of a small, sealed back driver. I've never liked the sound of 2-way speakers, 3-way just sounds smoother, more detailed - just my personal thought
Well, some rank bad advice, as usual. Is a a tiny 5" midbass and 1" tweeter hard? I don't think so. It will have the usual lousy bass performance, but might work well enough at medium volume in a small bedroom.
To me, it's saying second-order LC and CL filters with any appropriate attenuation on the tweeter, regardless of whether you think your Celestion 10 is particularly special and deserving of individual treatment.
1.8mH and 6.2uF shunt ought to do it on the bass filter. 3.3uF and 0.33mH ought to do it on the tweeter filter. And some attenuation. If this sort of thing below is too difficult for you, find another hobby.
To me, it's saying second-order LC and CL filters with any appropriate attenuation on the tweeter, regardless of whether you think your Celestion 10 is particularly special and deserving of individual treatment.
1.8mH and 6.2uF shunt ought to do it on the bass filter. 3.3uF and 0.33mH ought to do it on the tweeter filter. And some attenuation. If this sort of thing below is too difficult for you, find another hobby.
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