Hello,
I picked up a pair of Rainmakers. Nice speakers, definitely a different sound from Vandersteen 2c's.
I noticed one of the tweeters had been pushed in. I took it apart and pushed it back out. Sounds fine, but I inquired about replacements and the dealers are quoting me aprox $180 for one tweeter. Quite a bit more than I'd like to spend
Its a Seas H1284-06 25TA/G-TO not available any more.
Madison suggested the 27TBFC/G (H1212) $52 each, If I by two I can have enough left over for a nice dinner.
. How would this change the sound?
Thanks
mdr
I picked up a pair of Rainmakers. Nice speakers, definitely a different sound from Vandersteen 2c's.
I noticed one of the tweeters had been pushed in. I took it apart and pushed it back out. Sounds fine, but I inquired about replacements and the dealers are quoting me aprox $180 for one tweeter. Quite a bit more than I'd like to spend
Its a Seas H1284-06 25TA/G-TO not available any more.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Madison suggested the 27TBFC/G (H1212) $52 each, If I by two I can have enough left over for a nice dinner.
. How would this change the sound?Thanks
mdr
Link to old tweeter data:
Seas 25TA/G (6Ohm)
the 27TBFC/G is slightly more efficient, so level may need tweaking, otherwise looks like a good replacement
Seas 25TA/G (6Ohm)
the 27TBFC/G is slightly more efficient, so level may need tweaking, otherwise looks like a good replacement
It's a non-ferrofluid SEAS tweeter, usually designed for replaceable voicecoil so I think you may have adequately fixed it.
SEAS have been doing 26mm tweeters on 104mm cutouts for years, and I wouldn't be surprised if newer voicecoils fit older models.
IF I was replacing here, I think I'd stay true to the non-ferofluid 92dB 27TBC/G spirit:
H1147-06 27TBC/G
Some people prefer non-ferrofluid. You may want to adjust level slightly. Generally each ohm drops you a dB, so perhaps an extra ohm at the input required for replacing a 91dB unit. I like a Zobel (7.5R + 0.68uF) with metal domes to round off their sharp nature.
SEAS have been doing 26mm tweeters on 104mm cutouts for years, and I wouldn't be surprised if newer voicecoils fit older models.
IF I was replacing here, I think I'd stay true to the non-ferofluid 92dB 27TBC/G spirit:
H1147-06 27TBC/G
Some people prefer non-ferrofluid. You may want to adjust level slightly. Generally each ohm drops you a dB, so perhaps an extra ohm at the input required for replacing a 91dB unit. I like a Zobel (7.5R + 0.68uF) with metal domes to round off their sharp nature.
Attachments
I'm also sorry to revive this old thread, but it suits my question perfectly:
I need to replace my Rainmaker tweeter. Would the matching SEAS 25TAF/G work? There are some on eBay.
I'm asking because I read that Totem modifies the tweeter somehow, so I'm afraid a direct replacement could not work... According to some websites, Totem adds a custom rear ressonance chamber. I dont know if its glued to the tweeter or not.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
I need to replace my Rainmaker tweeter. Would the matching SEAS 25TAF/G work? There are some on eBay.
I'm asking because I read that Totem modifies the tweeter somehow, so I'm afraid a direct replacement could not work... According to some websites, Totem adds a custom rear ressonance chamber. I dont know if its glued to the tweeter or not.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
I am seriously considering starting up my own speaker factory. If Totem can start up some line of products called Rainmaker, maybe I should go for Widow Maker!
TBH, these people are having a laugh in suggesting their tweeters are better than anybody elses! I visited Moss, Norway years back. Nice enough place.
Tweeters are tweeters. If you are replacing something that got blown up at a Party, and to blow up a tweeter with a 5" midbass takes some effort, here's how it works:
, here illustrated with a SEAS 19 TAF/G:
Now really, just get a new SEAS 27TBC/G: H1147-06 27TBC/G
TBH, these people are having a laugh in suggesting their tweeters are better than anybody elses! I visited Moss, Norway years back. Nice enough place.
Tweeters are tweeters. If you are replacing something that got blown up at a Party, and to blow up a tweeter with a 5" midbass takes some effort, here's how it works:
Now really, just get a new SEAS 27TBC/G: H1147-06 27TBC/G
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Adding to this (sorry, I didn't find the edit button), I found some images of the tweeter in question, with and without the said chamber added by Totem:
I'd like to know if this chamber is removable somehow, and swappable to a new tweeter.
Thanks
The original looks most like a modified H0831-06 27TFF. The added chamber lowers the Fs slightly. The 27TBC/G has a chamber.
I can only tell you what your options are here. Me, I'd get a new whole tweeter.
You might go to madisound and try a replacement voicecoil:
SEAS H9909 Voice Coil for H398, H400, H417
Or get a whole new unit which looks similar:
H1147-06 27TBC/G
Nothing stopping you playing with ferrofluid:
Blue Aran - The UK's no.1 Loudspeaker Component Stockist > Sonitus Audio > High Frequency Drivers > Ferrofluid
Ferrofluid is optional. It changes the impedance and frequency response slightly:
Vifa C17WH-
Level adjustments are easy enough for the cost of a ceramic resistor. I have already suggested how to do that:
Each ohm is about 1dB level change.
I can only tell you what your options are here. Me, I'd get a new whole tweeter.
You might go to madisound and try a replacement voicecoil:
SEAS H9909 Voice Coil for H398, H400, H417
Or get a whole new unit which looks similar:
H1147-06 27TBC/G
Nothing stopping you playing with ferrofluid:
Blue Aran - The UK's no.1 Loudspeaker Component Stockist > Sonitus Audio > High Frequency Drivers > Ferrofluid
Ferrofluid is optional. It changes the impedance and frequency response slightly:
Vifa C17WH-
Level adjustments are easy enough for the cost of a ceramic resistor. I have already suggested how to do that:
Each ohm is about 1dB level change.
Thank you guys. Do you have any advice on removing the grills from the SEAS tweeters? And assembling back, of course. The thin ones, like on the 25TAF/G.
The sole reason I want to swap my rainmakers tweeters is because someone poked the grills and the "plastic dot"which was glued to the center of the grill (which aids dispersion?) fell off and I can't glue it back without an aesthetic mess, unless I remove the grill and do the job from the inside.
Also, would removing the grill and, obviously, the plastic dot, wreck the intended dispersion or on-axis FR that much?
I'm sorry for the noob questions, I know very little about tweeters.
Also sorry for my English
The sole reason I want to swap my rainmakers tweeters is because someone poked the grills and the "plastic dot"which was glued to the center of the grill (which aids dispersion?) fell off and I can't glue it back without an aesthetic mess, unless I remove the grill and do the job from the inside.
Also, would removing the grill and, obviously, the plastic dot, wreck the intended dispersion or on-axis FR that much?
I'm sorry for the noob questions, I know very little about tweeters.
Also sorry for my English
I think you are out of luck there, my friend.
The only voicecoils SEAS do separate from the front plate seem to be Excel units like this:
E0036-06 T25C003
Yours look like Prestige units, so look glued to me:
SEAS H9909 Voice Coil for H398, H400, H417
The only way to fix a loose diffusor might be a blob of polystyrene cement applied from the front and working upside down. It's gonna be incredibly fiddly to do. You might hold it upside down to get the diffusor in the right place, then use three pins to hold it and held with plasticene. Then turn it face up and drop some glue on it and hope for the best. Really I'm guessing!
Removing the grille looks tricky to me, but actually diffusors don't do much.
The only voicecoils SEAS do separate from the front plate seem to be Excel units like this:
E0036-06 T25C003
Yours look like Prestige units, so look glued to me:
SEAS H9909 Voice Coil for H398, H400, H417
The only way to fix a loose diffusor might be a blob of polystyrene cement applied from the front and working upside down. It's gonna be incredibly fiddly to do. You might hold it upside down to get the diffusor in the right place, then use three pins to hold it and held with plasticene. Then turn it face up and drop some glue on it and hope for the best. Really I'm guessing!
Removing the grille looks tricky to me, but actually diffusors don't do much.
I think you are out of luck there, my friend.
The only voicecoils SEAS do separate from the front plate seem to be Excel units like this:
E0036-06 T25C003
Yours look like Prestige units, so look glued to me:
SEAS H9909 Voice Coil for H398, H400, H417
The only way to fix a loose diffusor might be a blob of polystyrene cement applied from the front and working upside down. It's gonna be incredibly fiddly to do. You might hold it upside down to get the diffusor in the right place, then use three pins to hold it and held with plasticene. Then turn it face up and drop some glue on it and hope for the best. Really I'm guessing!
Removing the grille looks tricky to me, but actually diffusors don't do much.
Thank you once again.
I tried your advice (sort of) just yesterday. It worked on a functional level, but the dried glue didn't end up transparent; also, the diffusor was brown and dirty, probably from the original glue.
tweeter - Album on Imgur
According to SEAS, the grill also has the function to support a "phase plate":
"A fine mesh grid protects the diaphragm, and supports a phase plate which compensates for a slight axial roll of towards 20 kHz." (from 25TAF/G info sheet)
Would this phase plate be the plastic dot/diffusor?
I'm concerned that I may do some damage other than just losing the diffusor if my OCD gets the best of me and I end up removing both grills somehow (the other tweeter is perfect, BTW)
I have rainmakers since March last year 2019
Tweeters changed, thank you guys for suggestions
NOW woofer stopped working today
tested and it is dead, no visible damage
Any suggestions to replace, even upgrade from the original
Dealer is so greedy, one tweeter quoted for $226 and now woofer for $214
I can buy used pair for $500
and this is Canada, I am 200 km from Montreal where totem makes it
I have 4 different pairs of Totem at home
Rainmakers 2013 build disappointed me very fast
Tweeters changed, thank you guys for suggestions
NOW woofer stopped working today
tested and it is dead, no visible damage
Any suggestions to replace, even upgrade from the original
Dealer is so greedy, one tweeter quoted for $226 and now woofer for $214
I can buy used pair for $500
and this is Canada, I am 200 km from Montreal where totem makes it
I have 4 different pairs of Totem at home
Rainmakers 2013 build disappointed me very fast
Morning, Gary,
Just looked it up:
Totem Acoustic Rainmaker loudspeaker | Stereophile.com
Solen of Canada seem to stock affordable drivers. If it's a shiny 5 1/2" paper cone, it looks highly likely to be a SEAS CA15RLY.
Less likely the matt Reed/paper cone SEAS ER15RLY.
These are Presige drivers. Excel drivers have rubber dampers on the magnets.
80 Canadian dollars at Solen: Seas Presitge CA15RLY08 H1216, 15cm Paper cone Midbass.
My best guess. I'd measure the original to be sure, SEAS are slightly non-standard diameter, so easy to identify.
If the bug bites you for some diy, plenty of ideas here, and it's all in the crossover:
DIY-Loudspeakers
Just looked it up:
Totem Acoustic Rainmaker loudspeaker | Stereophile.com
Solen of Canada seem to stock affordable drivers. If it's a shiny 5 1/2" paper cone, it looks highly likely to be a SEAS CA15RLY.
Less likely the matt Reed/paper cone SEAS ER15RLY.
These are Presige drivers. Excel drivers have rubber dampers on the magnets.
80 Canadian dollars at Solen: Seas Presitge CA15RLY08 H1216, 15cm Paper cone Midbass.
My best guess. I'd measure the original to be sure, SEAS are slightly non-standard diameter, so easy to identify.
If the bug bites you for some diy, plenty of ideas here, and it's all in the crossover:
DIY-Loudspeakers
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Yikes! Having done due diligence on a fairly solid recommendation, I have discovered a serious problem.
I have an awful feeling this is not a nominal 8 ohm driver:
Totem Acoustic Rainmaker loudspeaker Measurements | Stereophile.com
I just think those good people at Moss in Norway might have done Totem a considerable engineering favour in dropping a driver to 4 ohms:
SEAS 5INCH
I'd recommend investing in a cheapish multimeter, or borrowing one from a neighborhood electrical friend and doing a measurement on a working midbass.
Sorry the fix isn't looking so easy...
I have an awful feeling this is not a nominal 8 ohm driver:
Totem Acoustic Rainmaker loudspeaker Measurements | Stereophile.com
I just think those good people at Moss in Norway might have done Totem a considerable engineering favour in dropping a driver to 4 ohms:
SEAS 5INCH
I'd recommend investing in a cheapish multimeter, or borrowing one from a neighborhood electrical friend and doing a measurement on a working midbass.
Sorry the fix isn't looking so easy...
A good suggestion. That certainly has the look...
My experience of loudspeaker companies is they like happy customers.
If you phone them up after the folks have had their coffee, is they want to help.
Ring Totem up and explain the problem. Having checked the facts they need to know.
I got a factory visit to Mitcham, Surrey and free replacements out of Chartwell. Got to meet all the engineers.
And, TBH, it was entirely my fault the tweeters had popped. I'd taken the fuses out so I could party harder!
My experience of loudspeaker companies is they like happy customers.
If you phone them up after the folks have had their coffee, is they want to help.
Ring Totem up and explain the problem. Having checked the facts they need to know.
I got a factory visit to Mitcham, Surrey and free replacements out of Chartwell. Got to meet all the engineers.
And, TBH, it was entirely my fault the tweeters had popped. I'd taken the fuses out so I could party harder!
Steve,
Very cool speakers,
I just measured rainmaker's woofer, 155.5 mm or 6.125" total diameter
That system is my fun playing room for every day music
Searching all web for 4 days and it looks like Peerless at 4-6 Ohm best choice
to replace woofers, they look identical to original woofers
Other long shot option , wait until some one sells one rainmaker or pair with bad shape cabinets, or something like this
in past few years I have seen so many for sale, in different condition
in Ottawa or Montreal totems are very popular,
I have listen all line of totem in different stores with different setup
My favorite totem forest signature with Mark Levinson or Chord gears
I own Wind but still not found proper amp to drive them,
Very demanding in power,
Just got new preamp Canary audio CA-801L and CA-801P
hope would be main system setup.
Very cool speakers,
I just measured rainmaker's woofer, 155.5 mm or 6.125" total diameter
That system is my fun playing room for every day music
Searching all web for 4 days and it looks like Peerless at 4-6 Ohm best choice
to replace woofers, they look identical to original woofers
Other long shot option , wait until some one sells one rainmaker or pair with bad shape cabinets, or something like this
in past few years I have seen so many for sale, in different condition
in Ottawa or Montreal totems are very popular,
I have listen all line of totem in different stores with different setup
My favorite totem forest signature with Mark Levinson or Chord gears
I own Wind but still not found proper amp to drive them,
Very demanding in power,
Just got new preamp Canary audio CA-801L and CA-801P
hope would be main system setup.
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