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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Newbie 2 way design for integration with subs
Newbie 2 way design for integration with subs
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Old 13th November 2014, 08:23 AM   #1
Ihaveadream is offline Ihaveadream
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Default Newbie 2 way design for integration with subs

Hi guys, I'm looking to build a well established passive 2 way design, with the ultimate aim to use 2 x peerless xls10/side (4 total) in a sealed configuration as a sub to cover low bass. [I chose xls 10 because they are cheap in the uk, (70)]

My design goals were that this goes reasonably loud so I want 90 DB sensitivity for the 2 way if possible. I will build the 2 way first, then get a mini dsp and integrate the subs later (subs will be active).

I have a nad c370 to power the 2 way.

Any advice on recommended designs is welcomed.

I'm not opposed to building something like the mini statements/statements but I figured they would be low sensitivity and seeing as I will be running subs up to 80/100hz the statements will sacrifice clarity vs a well designed 2 way. Feel free to educate me if I'm wrong.

Budget for the speaker (not including subs) is around 600 tops, though 400 preferred. I can but would prefer not to have to solder a crossover.

Thanks for any input.
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Old 13th November 2014, 09:52 AM   #2
Studio Au is offline Studio Au  United Kingdom
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Full range?

Mark Audio 10's on top, or some BMR drivers? No crossover needed...

Hypex DLCP if you want complete control of 6 active channels, but you need 3 power amps or a 6 channel amp...
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Old 13th November 2014, 11:56 AM   #3
Colin is offline Colin  United Kingdom
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A number of designs would work well. As Stu says, a fullrange unit would do it. I'm using our own Jordan Eikona in a pair of LS3/5a-size sealed enclosures with a pair of small subs (Rega Vulcan but BK Electronics make a similar model). The Eikonas are run full range (no bass rolloff other than provided by the enclosure loading) and the subs are rolled in at 75Hz. The subs are active.

The only reason to add a MiniDSP to this would be to roll off the Eikona higher up and allow greater output, unrestricted by the need to handle bass.

If you wish to avoid soldering, BK sell amp plates to use with the Peerless drivers - they also sell those and I believe a number of their finished designs use them.

If you prefer the two-way route, SB Acoustics has a good design and there are a number of others around. I believe Falcon in the UK make pre-assembled crossovers for their kits.

Last edited by Colin; 13th November 2014 at 11:58 AM. Reason: added info
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Old 14th November 2014, 07:53 AM   #4
jReave is offline jReave  Canada
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Join Date: Oct 2012
The Uluwatus come to mind. Only 8 components to the xo in a 2.5-way design.

You could possibly stuff the ports to make them sealed instead of vented in order to cross to your subs when you get them. Sealed F3 looks to be about 100Hz.

Sensitivity is 92dB 2.83V/m.
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Old 16th November 2014, 09:15 AM   #5
Ihaveadream is offline Ihaveadream
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Join Date: Nov 2014
I was planning to build the sub into the same speaker (basically a large 3 way, with the bass driver being active). So the ultawu speaker is going to be far too big! I don't really want to use a full range driver, mainly for cosmetic reasons I want a tweeter.

Searching again I came across eminence lab 12 speakers, which I can get for 200 (for a pair) so I'm going with that rather than 2x peerless xls10.

I was planning on making the lab 12 side firing, and to keep the cabinet to reasonable proportions I was going to have them in a sealed box, and probably power them with an inuke (any recommendations on which one? I'm not sure how much power the lab 12's can take!)

So with that in mind to keep the floorstanding speaker reasonably proportioned I'm looking at around a 6-7 inch tm or possibly a mtm design.

I'm okay with 88db plus (true sensitivity).

Is there an established design I can copy which fits this?
Also I was wondering on what frequencies I can use for the lab 12, obviously higher is better with regard to taking pressure off the mid, but with it being side firing I don't want the sound to be changed (I was thinking around 100 hz?)

Thanks in advance.
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Old 16th November 2014, 04:56 PM   #6
jReave is offline jReave  Canada
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diysoundgroup - check the different kits out, especially the Fusion waveguide kits
Swopes MTM
RS180 MTM by Jeff B
Abouriou RS150 MTM
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