Hi, I have a Panasonic micro system of old (one of the types that was heavily built before they became cheap throwaway).
The reason I kept it is because it has a mini disc and tape machine as well as CD and tuner.
I need to transfer old remixed cassettes onto MD for old times sake, and listen to them in the loft away from the Doris, but I wanted to use some concept 20 speakers I bought for home use.
The problem is that the speaker terminals have 4 outlets (2 high frequency and 2 low frequency, colour coded that are fixed to the back of the speaker cabinet).
The question is how to connect a set of regular bookshelf speakers?
Use regular cable but double up on the terminals and let the crossover in the speakers sort out the frquency split?
The speakers show 6ohms 35w max input.
Any ideas ? Thanks.
The reason I kept it is because it has a mini disc and tape machine as well as CD and tuner.
I need to transfer old remixed cassettes onto MD for old times sake, and listen to them in the loft away from the Doris, but I wanted to use some concept 20 speakers I bought for home use.
The problem is that the speaker terminals have 4 outlets (2 high frequency and 2 low frequency, colour coded that are fixed to the back of the speaker cabinet).
The question is how to connect a set of regular bookshelf speakers?
Use regular cable but double up on the terminals and let the crossover in the speakers sort out the frquency split?
The speakers show 6ohms 35w max input.
Any ideas ? Thanks.
Ideas? No way !
No, hey, wait...! We're talking about some proprietary solution that includes frequency band spitting before the amplifiers ( electronic crossover ) and the loudspeakers associated. Technically, you should do a "sweep" and "see" where the crossover frequency is located, and which slope; then bypass completely the X-over in your speaker boxes and connect the drivers directly, if everything fits. The problems are only for the tweeter section, because the low cut might be too...low and stress and damage it. Of course you can try-
No, hey, wait...! We're talking about some proprietary solution that includes frequency band spitting before the amplifiers ( electronic crossover ) and the loudspeakers associated. Technically, you should do a "sweep" and "see" where the crossover frequency is located, and which slope; then bypass completely the X-over in your speaker boxes and connect the drivers directly, if everything fits. The problems are only for the tweeter section, because the low cut might be too...low and stress and damage it. Of course you can try-
Speakers are always "improvable"
Improvement means the speakers themselves, the box and the positioning.
I remember i liked the fashion of those midi components, seldom I saw them in "regular" shops; there was one "all silver" with the Tw level knob aside the master vol.
But for loudspeakers, of course the "midi" segment allows for possible improvements - the missing points are dictated by cost/sells
This is the forum for talking about LS's only
Take a breath and destroy them
Improvement means the speakers themselves, the box and the positioning.
I remember i liked the fashion of those midi components, seldom I saw them in "regular" shops; there was one "all silver" with the Tw level knob aside the master vol.
But for loudspeakers, of course the "midi" segment allows for possible improvements - the missing points are dictated by cost/sells
This is the forum for talking about LS's only
Take a breath and destroy them
Hey ! we're talking about simple speakers !
Usually the 6Ω value is obtained by saying 4Ω woofer+ 8Ω tweeter equals a mathematical 6 Ω
So you may isolate and measure the woofers that you have and check the impedance. If they are the same - they can be interchanged
In this case is particularly true for the design that makes all things dependant
each to the other, see the amplifier gains...
FOr the tweeter section, you may "improve" it by using a newest component, though somone might like an ol' paper (cheap!?!) cone tweeter, such little 2" that are now available for the little multimedia applications
Usually the 6Ω value is obtained by saying 4Ω woofer+ 8Ω tweeter equals a mathematical 6 Ω
So you may isolate and measure the woofers that you have and check the impedance. If they are the same - they can be interchanged
In this case is particularly true for the design that makes all things dependant
each to the other, see the amplifier gains...
FOr the tweeter section, you may "improve" it by using a newest component, though somone might like an ol' paper (cheap!?!
) cone tweeter, such little 2" that are now available for the little multimedia applications
Would you take a photo of the terminals of the back of the amplifier
and another photo of the wires coming out of the boxes?
If I understood correctly, your boxes have separate wires for the
tweeter and midbass( biwiring) without a terminal on the box and
those wires are going to amp side and must be paralleled inside
of the stereo?
Lojzec, I will so you can see.
Picowall, do you use a translating pogramme? If so take a deep breath and delete it because I don't understand a word you say.
However, I think I've got the gist of it which is try to improve the speakers as they are.
No, I'm not interested in that, I just wanted to know if I could use my QAcoustics concept 20 units on this music system.
Picowall, do you use a translating pogramme? If so take a deep breath and delete it because I don't understand a word you say.
However, I think I've got the gist of it which is try to improve the speakers as they are.
No, I'm not interested in that, I just wanted to know if I could use my QAcoustics concept 20 units on this music system.
It happens sometimes. I get remarks by forumers also in my OT ( orig. tongue )
Mmmhh...I was thinking of making them open, by destroying the rear baffle, actually.
Hi, and the short answer to that is no, rgds, sreten.
FWIW such systems usually have a very cheap 2 or 3 way built
into the front driven by one amplifier, and a hidded rear driver
in a 4th order bandpass with a large front port driven by the
other amplifier. As well as an active x/o they may or may not
have EQ built into the amplifiers, its anyones guess. Without
measuring and modifying, a very difficult set up to improve.
Thanks sreten, that's what I needed to know.
I know it's just a micro system, but having a mini disc collection, I was just concerned that if the speakers went, I'd lose the functionality of the whole unit.
Guess I'd better get onto Ebay and see if anyone is selling a set secondhand (a preoccupation of anyone with obsolete equipment).
I know it's just a micro system, but having a mini disc collection, I was just concerned that if the speakers went, I'd lose the functionality of the whole unit.
Guess I'd better get onto Ebay and see if anyone is selling a set secondhand (a preoccupation of anyone with obsolete equipment).
You guys have lost me completely here.
This isn't very hard, is it?
Those Q Acoustics Concept 20 are biwireable 4-6 ohm speakers, whatever that is worth.
But you can bridge the woofer and tweeter inputs and run them off a single cable. The bridge is shown below. Seemples. Then behaves just like any other speaker.
This isn't very hard, is it?
Those Q Acoustics Concept 20 are biwireable 4-6 ohm speakers, whatever that is worth.
But you can bridge the woofer and tweeter inputs and run them off a single cable. The bridge is shown below. Seemples. Then behaves just like any other speaker.
Attachments
Hi Steve, you are right, and nice choice, I too have the white ones.
But we're talking about the Pansonic speakers, not bi-wireable but bi-wired, as in they have two wires coming out of the back of the speaker.
One goes to + and - on the high frequency output of the amp and the other to the low frequency output of the amp, in other words there are 8 speaker terminals on the amp, presumably the crossover is inside there too.
But we're talking about the Pansonic speakers, not bi-wireable but bi-wired, as in they have two wires coming out of the back of the speaker.
One goes to + and - on the high frequency output of the amp and the other to the low frequency output of the amp, in other words there are 8 speaker terminals on the amp, presumably the crossover is inside there too.
Well, you can connect your Q Acoustics speakers to either output. Nothing will break.
Presumably one output will sound bassy, and the other output will be top end only if it's wired and filtered as you guess?
Sounds interesting actually. Poor man's active filter. What is the model number? I expect google can turn something up.
BTW, these sort of old stack units often have provision for an equaliser. It possibly won't work at all unless you bypass the equaliser input and output section with some phono leads.
Presumably one output will sound bassy, and the other output will be top end only if it's wired and filtered as you guess?
Sounds interesting actually. Poor man's active filter. What is the model number? I expect google can turn something up.
BTW, these sort of old stack units often have provision for an equaliser. It possibly won't work at all unless you bypass the equaliser input and output section with some phono leads.
Hi,
Steve is one step well behind any commonsense.
I've already described the commonsense.
In all reality you need to convert your minidisc
collection to VBR MP3 or WMA via a decent PC
card, or buy a standalone minidisc player/
recorder, they are now dirt cheap.
So go for the most expensive and rare,
not much more than the cheapest.
However that wil only delay conversion
for one generation, but at least your
source for conversion will be much
better than a mini system, unless
the mini system is the recorder.
rgds, sreten.
Steve is one step well behind any commonsense.
I've already described the commonsense.
In all reality you need to convert your minidisc
collection to VBR MP3 or WMA via a decent PC
card, or buy a standalone minidisc player/
recorder, they are now dirt cheap.
So go for the most expensive and rare,
not much more than the cheapest.
However that wil only delay conversion
for one generation, but at least your
source for conversion will be much
better than a mini system, unless
the mini system is the recorder.
rgds, sreten.
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