Replacement tweeters for Musical Fidelity MC2's

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What are your next steps once you have some foam gasket material.
Are you going to try them and see how the speakers perform. I would definitely listen to them over the next week or so before starting to changing things or trying to improve the fit.
It will be interesting to get your feedback on how they perform with the new bass units.

This is a good fix it thread! :D

So this is where we are now. I did like the look of that polycone SEAS woofer at Falcon Acoustics:
Seas P21RE/P H0942-08 Woofer. H0313 2015 remake

811735d1580051717t-replacement-tweeters-musical-fidelity-mc2s-img_20200126_084617-2-jpg


I think the old scraping woofers were Elac or Audax. Hard to tell really. Rotating them DOES work with a bit of experimenting on pushing the cones in at various points, just mark an arrow so you know where you are, but whatever.

This is an Elac with 217mm diameter on mounting bolts:

714063d1541548033-restoring-monitor-audio-r300-bookshelf-speakers-ma-r300-md-current-4th-build-jpg


I can decipher the metal tweeter type:

SEAS type 25TAFC/G-MF

That's 25mm, Tweeter, Aluminium , Ferrofluid, Chambered / Grille, Musical Fidelity Bespoke.

About the same thing as this Aluminium/Magnesium dome (B) with a rectangular faceplate: H1212-06 27TBFC/G.

Anyway. All good, IMO. No reason not to just screw the new woofer in, with some sort of cardboard or foam gasket. I'd drill pilot holes and maybe put some PVA wood glue around them to keep the chipboard intact if you are close to the edge of the cutout.
 
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Hi that is sure i would only like to know if a gasket of some kind is essential for the right mounting of the woofer
I guess so because i see some tapes used in car audio that could work
By the way the original woofers had no gaskets at all
As i said i can only work on these during weekend and often i have issues but next week end i should be able to test them without touching anything else
Thanks again kind regards gino
 
Without a gasket there is a possibility of some small leaks, however as it is a ported speaker it is not as important as a sealed speaker, not perfect but a lower priority issue.

Because of the somewhat higher pressure generated internally in a sealed design, the leak will lead to less than perfect performance in terms of the bass tuning. Possibly worse from a listening point of view, it can cause hissing or other spurious noises.

Even the 1mm cardboard cut from a breakfast cereal box or some such can make a temporary gasket.

Ideally if after a few days listening you should be able to understand if the mounting and sealing is adequate or if you will need to cut another piece of wood to make a better/stronger baffle for the new woofer.
 
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Without a gasket there is a possibility of some small leaks, however as it is a ported speaker it is not as important as a sealed speaker, not perfect but a lower priority issue.

Because of the somewhat higher pressure generated internally in a sealed design, the leak will lead to less than perfect performance in terms of the bass tuning. Possibly worse from a listening point of view, it can cause hissing or other spurious noises.

Even the 1mm cardboard cut from a breakfast cereal box or some such can make a temporary gasket.

Ideally if after a few days listening you should be able to understand if the mounting and sealing is adequate or if you will need to cut another piece of wood to make a better/stronger baffle for the new woofer.


Even ported designs with air leaks in the wrong places can ruin the sound.
An open rivet hole whistled on the tweeters I replaced on some ported speakers.
I simply cured it with a small shot of permatex gasket sealer and no more whistles.
 
This is a good fix it thread! :D
So this is where we are now.
I did like the look of that polycone SEAS woofer at Falcon Acoustics:
Seas P21RE/P H0942-08 Woofer. H0313 2015 remake

811735d1580051717t-replacement-tweeters-musical-fidelity-mc2s-img_20200126_084617-2-jpg

I think the old scraping woofers were Elac or Audax. Hard to tell really. Rotating them DOES work with a bit of experimenting on pushing the cones in at various points, just mark an arrow so you know where you are, but whatever.

Hi ! i tried to rotate it while gently pushing the cone but the scraping is quite evident. I think that the coil could be detached from its support ?
I am quite hopeless to recover them. I have a friend who has more experience with drivers repair. He will have a look at them
Also the cone surrounds are not even ... maybe he will be able to replace the surrounds with new ones ... i do not know now.

This is an Elac with 217mm diameter on mounting bolts:
714063d1541548033-restoring-monitor-audio-r300-bookshelf-speakers-ma-r300-md-current-4th-build-jpg

So it must be at least of very decent quality. I respect Monitor Audio brand a lot indeed. The crossover is unbelievable ... :eek:

I can decipher the metal tweeter type:
SEAS type 25TAFC/G-MF
That's 25mm, Tweeter, Aluminium , Ferrofluid, Chambered / Grille, Musical Fidelity Bespoke.
About the same thing as this Aluminium/Magnesium dome (B) with a rectangular faceplate: H1212-06 27TBFC/G.
Anyway. All good, IMO.
:up:

i had the same feeling of a good quality unit. I read some review mentioning a good soundstage and nice midrange. The tweeters seem to work fine.
The cabinet has thick panels and it is quite heavy
At the knock-test it is quite "silent"

No reason not to just screw the new woofer in, with some sort of cardboard or foam gasket.

To do a clean jobe I would try to use some adhesive tape ... like this one

https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Speaker-Gasketing-Tape/dp/B0002ZPLPM
They come with different sizes

I'd drill pilot holes and maybe put some PVA wood glue around them to keep the chipboard intact if you are close to the edge of the cutout

Thanks but even if the new woofer basket is smaller than the original there is still enough room for screws. I will check with a measuring tape anyway but i am quite optimistic.
I would like to do things well ... i am in the learning phase and a beginner.
I do not want to damage the new woofers.
Very good woofers are very expensive indeed. Starting from 200 euro up ... :eek::eek:
Thank you very much indeed for your kind and valuable advice.
Very nice monitor the Monitor Audio ... very nice indeed.
 
Without a gasket there is a possibility of some small leaks, however as it is a ported speaker it is not as important as a sealed speaker, not perfect but a lower priority issue.
Because of the somewhat higher pressure generated internally in a sealed design, the leak will lead to less than perfect performance in terms of the bass tuning. Possibly worse from a listening point of view, it can cause hissing or other spurious noises.
Even the 1mm cardboard cut from a breakfast cereal box or some such can make a temporary gasket.
Ideally if after a few days listening you should be able to understand if the mounting and sealing is adequate or if you will need to cut another piece of wood to make a better/stronger baffle for the new woofer.

Thanks a lot again. I really would like to use some rubbery adhesive band very handy that i have often seen in shops for domestic/industrial use
I hope to be able to listen at the end of this week.

Even ported designs with air leaks in the wrong places can ruin the sound. An open rivet hole whistled on the tweeters I replaced on some ported speakers. I simply cured it with a small shot of permatex gasket sealer and no more whistles

Hi ! thanks a lot for the valuable advice. However I wonder if a generic and more basic rubber adhesive band would not be enough ... :rolleyes:
I will buy something for sure. The edge of the woofer gasket could indent the baffle ... i would not want that.
 
Be careful of any adhesive or silicon sealers as they give of fumes as they cure. You don't want to do anything to degrade the foam

Thanks and yes. Chemicals scare me quite a bit. And also i like actions that are the most reversible as possible. Without damaging anything possibly.

, polypropylene or other bits of your new speakers. Failing finding some in a local DIY store, can you find some speaker sealing foam on Amazon.
i think i will end using some products of this family ... it should work better than doing nothing i hope.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=neoprene+adhesive+tape&crid=19XREGE4PPI7T&sprefix=neoprene+adhesive+%2Caps%2C228&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_3_18

61aYzt1JgEL._SL1000_.jpg
 
How did things turn out.
Are you happy with the new driver, or are there some adjustments to be made?
If you are happy with the project can you share some thoughts regarding the sound of the woofer, did you have to tune any other components?

hi i am ashamed to say that i have not done anything yet :eek:
I am in a middle of a job change and problems. I swear that i will share any results asap.
I will try to connect them this weekend in a temporary way at least.
But i am also thinking to change them to active cannibalizing the amps from a pair of Behringer 2030a i have at hand.
I would like to use them as monitors in a small studio for recordings.
These MC2 should have better drivers than the Behringers considering their original MSRP. :rolleyes:

Another idea for driver mounting gaskets is to purchase a pair of replacement foam surrounds with the same outer diameter* as would fit the front flange of the new drivers if these were a foam surround type.
* or a slightly bigger diameter such that the foams reach closer to the outer edge of the underside of the metal flanges of the new drivers

Thanks ! it sounds very good to me I guess the thicker the better ?
and the rubber ones ? i have to measure the woofer gasket
Actually i could find the specs in the web ... i will check :scratch2:
Thanks for the valuable hint. :)
 
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