6-way speaker cable

[tinitus]

The original proposal was all good.

I believe that was what he ordered too

it could indeed have been a much shorter thread

 

[Juhazi]

Still going strong...
The Speakon sare really pro-minded. The cable connectors are only screw-mount because they get abused and then are easy to fix. Chassis connectors can safely be soldered because the wires are encased and are not prone to mutilation!

 

[tinitus]

oh, yes, sure, soldering can be perfectly safe, and ok

I'm only saying that for thick wire there are better ways for making optimal contact

audiophiles have always miscredited industrial spade connectors
which probably have been a mistake

I only suggest to solder the spade connector instead

at least for one good reason
you do not have to sit holding the cable while soldering

I expect a PRO will just pick the exact right spade and crimp it properly, and be using the right tool

heavy duty load wire crimping is done with crimped copper ferule
and it will hold a boat sail through a storm, or a heavy PA rig

 

[Kev06]

Its certainly been a longer thread than i imagined! Ultimately its turned out well though, I think; my original idea wasn't rubbished and there have been a few useful refinements suggested but for once nothing that I don't understand or can't weigh up the pros and cons of. So i'm feeling confident to go ahead and order some cable now.

Thanks for all the contributions!

Cheers
Kev

 

[Charles Darwin]

This is some blurb from Neutriks site page on the NL8FC cable connector:

"They feature solid contacts with screw-type terminals including a stranded wire protection which offer also solder termination."

I interpret it so that they can be used screwed or soldered or both on the same plug as there does not seem to be a solder only version. Would let you solder them without holding the cable too.

 

[laplace]

This is some blurb from Neutriks site page on the NL8FC cable connector:

"They feature solid contacts with screw-type terminals including a stranded wire protection which offer also solder termination."

I interpret it so that they can be used screwed or soldered or both on the same plug as there does not seem to be a solder only version. Would let you solder them without holding the cable too.

I have the NL8FC plugs, and the wire receptacles are little silver-plated brass holes, about 3.5mm, with a thread tapped in the side. You get a grub-screw and a little bit of folded metal that squashes the wire under the screw so that the screw won't mangle fine strands. You can remove the screw and solder directly in if you want. The strain relief is pretty good so I just screwed mine in.

 

[Brian Oshman]

For a start it's higher capacitance than a normal speaker cable. But it's thin. OK, you may double up pairs, but that's a messy termination. 4 pairs of 26AWG makes 20AWG, not that great for long speaker wires.



That is not true at audio frequencies. The reason the central core and 6 around it is used is simply because of getting the cores to lay nicely. This is also why an overall twist rather than per-pair twist is used.

The paper core is there to add strength to the cable. Being a service cable that would get dragged and stretched around it applies the tension to the core instead of the conductors.

Take a paper towel, twist it tight, then try to pull it apart. Same principle applies.

 

[Brian Oshman]

it could indeed have been a much shorter thread

Now that would not be in proper fashion for DIY Audio now would it?

 

[tinitus]

You can remove the screw and solder directly in if you want.

I suppose that would be possible

the chassis part is cheaper, and a small discount on 10 pieces