Hello!
My project is to replace the stock speakers from a "in a box" bi-amp sound system. The speakers are 2-way bass reflexes and the specs says the amp's crossover point is at 3000 hz. All existing drivers are 6 ohm.
I intend to use this system in the dining-living room, so it is not for "critical" listening. Therefor, I do not want to put a lot of $$. I want to get rid of the "boomy" bass and the rear vents because I want to wall mount the speakers.
I have never done a project without a crossover. What is to correct way to start this right?
My project is to replace the stock speakers from a "in a box" bi-amp sound system. The speakers are 2-way bass reflexes and the specs says the amp's crossover point is at 3000 hz. All existing drivers are 6 ohm.
I intend to use this system in the dining-living room, so it is not for "critical" listening. Therefor, I do not want to put a lot of $$. I want to get rid of the "boomy" bass and the rear vents because I want to wall mount the speakers.
I have never done a project without a crossover. What is to correct way to start this right?
That is what puzzles me also.
If the frequency separation is made before the DAC, there may be no electrical filters at all.If the frequency separation is made after the DAC, then there will be a low pass and a high pass filter on the corresponding channels.
Any thoughts on measurements I could make to have an insight on this?
If I was to build new boxes for the existing drivers, the only info have about the speakers are :
Volume of existing boxes;
Length and diameter of the existing vent;
Driver impedance;
Crossover frequency;
How would I calculate a new bass reflex alignment from there?
Usually these kind of speakers are boomy. The best option is to measure the Theile-Small paremeters of your woofer. A guide to do this is on my website.
If this is too much work for you then a suggested based on the observation that cheap speakers are usually boomy, would be to increase box volume by about 15% while keeping the same port. This will tune it a bit lower and give a little more extension.
It would be a good idea to retain the existing baffle width and driver positioning. Although they are probably not optimised, they may be and so it's worth sticking with. As changing them will affect frequency response because of baffle step and tilt.
If this is too much work for you then a suggested based on the observation that cheap speakers are usually boomy, would be to increase box volume by about 15% while keeping the same port. This will tune it a bit lower and give a little more extension.
It would be a good idea to retain the existing baffle width and driver positioning. Although they are probably not optimised, they may be and so it's worth sticking with. As changing them will affect frequency response because of baffle step and tilt.
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