And mine =)
loudspeakerstuff from Thiel, Eton, TC Sound.
Amp and PreAmp from LC Audio. CD-player, Pioneer PD-S06...
NAD 218THX is driving those TC:s...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
loudspeakerstuff from Thiel, Eton, TC Sound.
Amp and PreAmp from LC Audio. CD-player, Pioneer PD-S06...
NAD 218THX is driving those TC:s...
My next diy step
Some things just logically follow others. My earlier system (posted to this thread) just used one wide-band driver per side. This system uses four per side in a transiently aligned array. The core of the enclosures are extruded plastic fence posts (5 inch by 5 inch and one-quarter inch thick). Three sides are covered with glued on carpet. The front baffles are glued on parquet. I just wanted to get away from the look of monolithic wood. The next step for the wood front baffles are to align the little pieces of wood with a running bond. The tops and bottoms are three-quarter inch oak. While the plastic fence posts vibrate differently than wood, by themselves they are not better. With the laminations, the construct is less resonant than three-quarter inch MDF.
While I will never achieve diy perfection, more of the driver parts are of my construction than previously posted. Next step here is to make my own baskets.
Mark
Some things just logically follow others. My earlier system (posted to this thread) just used one wide-band driver per side. This system uses four per side in a transiently aligned array. The core of the enclosures are extruded plastic fence posts (5 inch by 5 inch and one-quarter inch thick). Three sides are covered with glued on carpet. The front baffles are glued on parquet. I just wanted to get away from the look of monolithic wood. The next step for the wood front baffles are to align the little pieces of wood with a running bond. The tops and bottoms are three-quarter inch oak. While the plastic fence posts vibrate differently than wood, by themselves they are not better. With the laminations, the construct is less resonant than three-quarter inch MDF.
While I will never achieve diy perfection, more of the driver parts are of my construction than previously posted. Next step here is to make my own baskets.
Mark
Attachments
Dont they look the same ???
yeah pictures mark picture
lol
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
yeah pictures mark picture
lolGreetings,
A few details about my earlier, narrow tower, 4 unit verical arrays. On an earlier system posting I showed the modified (really remade) W3-881S. That remaking was part of a project to build my own 2-inch cone driver. The drivers pictured here are mid project prototypes. They are constructed from a structured poly substrate with a powdered metal veneer.
The "7V" style (what does "7V" refer to?) 4 unit vertical array is physically aligned not to comb filter to the highest reproduced transient at the listener position. The top and bottom driver in the array are stepped forward just a little bit (at my acceptable tolerances a critical measurement) . At the listening position (sitting), the 4 drivers are coherent. They even measure coherent at a 200 kHz sampling rate. The drivers have long since given up meaningful reproduction by 100 kHz, but there is no comb filtering. There is interference above and below the listening position, but it is only at the very highest frequencies and the off-axis response of the driver is down in the region of interference. The drivers are also matched octads. There is virtually no difference in performance amongst the eight drivers (1 db or less). This makes the measurement of the far field array performance an easy task. The arrays also sound no different than one unit at the listening location. Except, of course, that they will play more loudly than is good for my ears. And when the music and recording is good you want to keep turning the sound level up until it is as loud as it will play. Playing loudly is the only reason to begin arraying these little, nearly full-range drivers.
The posting, however, was really about the array alignment, the cabinet construction, the parquet front baffles, and one interpretation of DIY. Different looking, easily constructed since the core is a readily available extruded plastic fence post, and once layered, less resonant than typical wood construction. Just add a little baffling and some fill inside to break up coherent reflections and you have a superiour enclosure for very little cost and not much more effort.
Since that posting, my next step has been to construct a jig and to assemble three running bond parquet front baffles. Now I just have to cut them to length and veneer them to the front of some enclosure cores. The next step beyond that is to use woods of higher contrast, use some cross grain sections and begin to mosaic the front baffles. Carpet selection, of course, is a matter of aesthetic taste and is easily accomodated. They do, however, look too much like a scratching post and so may not be suitable for households with cats.
Mark
A few details about my earlier, narrow tower, 4 unit verical arrays. On an earlier system posting I showed the modified (really remade) W3-881S. That remaking was part of a project to build my own 2-inch cone driver. The drivers pictured here are mid project prototypes. They are constructed from a structured poly substrate with a powdered metal veneer.
The "7V" style (what does "7V" refer to?) 4 unit vertical array is physically aligned not to comb filter to the highest reproduced transient at the listener position. The top and bottom driver in the array are stepped forward just a little bit (at my acceptable tolerances a critical measurement) . At the listening position (sitting), the 4 drivers are coherent. They even measure coherent at a 200 kHz sampling rate. The drivers have long since given up meaningful reproduction by 100 kHz, but there is no comb filtering. There is interference above and below the listening position, but it is only at the very highest frequencies and the off-axis response of the driver is down in the region of interference. The drivers are also matched octads. There is virtually no difference in performance amongst the eight drivers (1 db or less). This makes the measurement of the far field array performance an easy task. The arrays also sound no different than one unit at the listening location. Except, of course, that they will play more loudly than is good for my ears. And when the music and recording is good you want to keep turning the sound level up until it is as loud as it will play. Playing loudly is the only reason to begin arraying these little, nearly full-range drivers.
The posting, however, was really about the array alignment, the cabinet construction, the parquet front baffles, and one interpretation of DIY. Different looking, easily constructed since the core is a readily available extruded plastic fence post, and once layered, less resonant than typical wood construction. Just add a little baffling and some fill inside to break up coherent reflections and you have a superiour enclosure for very little cost and not much more effort.
Since that posting, my next step has been to construct a jig and to assemble three running bond parquet front baffles. Now I just have to cut them to length and veneer them to the front of some enclosure cores. The next step beyond that is to use woods of higher contrast, use some cross grain sections and begin to mosaic the front baffles. Carpet selection, of course, is a matter of aesthetic taste and is easily accomodated. They do, however, look too much like a scratching post and so may not be suitable for households with cats.
Mark
My main music system
My main system comprises a pair of 2-way horns, with Altec 515Bs in JBL 4560 cabinets for bass & JBL 2440 drivers on JBL 2360 horns for HF. Xover is about 750Hz first order with foil inductors & oil caps.
Amplification is a pair of 45 monoblocks, driven by 26s and direct coupled. The picture shows an earlier version of the amp when it still had a direct coupled 5842 driver. The crossover can be seen behind the amp.
Sources include a first-run Teres bearing, platter, motor & controller, with an original SME 3009 with an Ortofon SPU classic GM (Denon DL301 in picture) with a Denon stepup transformer and an IT coupled 5842 phono stage.
Digital sources include a Theta Data Basic II into a 4xTDA1543 NOS dac and a waiting to be modified Pioneer DV-563A.
Peace
My main system comprises a pair of 2-way horns, with Altec 515Bs in JBL 4560 cabinets for bass & JBL 2440 drivers on JBL 2360 horns for HF. Xover is about 750Hz first order with foil inductors & oil caps.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Amplification is a pair of 45 monoblocks, driven by 26s and direct coupled. The picture shows an earlier version of the amp when it still had a direct coupled 5842 driver. The crossover can be seen behind the amp.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Sources include a first-run Teres bearing, platter, motor & controller, with an original SME 3009 with an Ortofon SPU classic GM (Denon DL301 in picture) with a Denon stepup transformer and an IT coupled 5842 phono stage.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Digital sources include a Theta Data Basic II into a 4xTDA1543 NOS dac and a waiting to be modified Pioneer DV-563A.
Peace
Banned
Joined 2002
Here's one shot of my speakers. Basically Zalytron't budget 102 kit with a kevlar tweeter and a zoebel to compensate for rising impedance of the woofers.
Walls are 2x.75" MDF plus .25" ooak ply. Corners started as 2" square oak. Pretty darned dead. Lacking the router power to do a 2" radius, I started rounding over with a hand plane. this will take too long so it ended up wiht mere .5" roundovers all around. This ported alignment gives an F3 arounf 43 Hz.
Speaker is sitting on my JBL 2245H sub. I just bought another driver, so I'll be able to go stereo subs. A pair of 18" subs in a 14x17 room is overkill, but who cares.
(not pictured) Yamaha DSP-A1 doing preamp/ processor duty, A-75 http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=328039#post328039 and Pioneer DVL-919.
I prototyped a TL with the same drivers and XO. Using a 9" wide baffle (13" here) really improves imaging. i also like the TL bass better. Now to make decent looking TL cabinets. My fiance dislikes oak with a passion, so they will be veneered in Walnut or maybe something else.
BTW, the bass was a Carvin Kit. Next one will be from scratch. Not that I can play well enough to justify owning another bass, but this is DIY country.
Walls are 2x.75" MDF plus .25" ooak ply. Corners started as 2" square oak. Pretty darned dead. Lacking the router power to do a 2" radius, I started rounding over with a hand plane. this will take too long so it ended up wiht mere .5" roundovers all around. This ported alignment gives an F3 arounf 43 Hz.
Speaker is sitting on my JBL 2245H sub. I just bought another driver, so I'll be able to go stereo subs. A pair of 18" subs in a 14x17 room is overkill, but who cares.
(not pictured) Yamaha DSP-A1 doing preamp/ processor duty, A-75 http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=328039#post328039 and Pioneer DVL-919.
I prototyped a TL with the same drivers and XO. Using a 9" wide baffle (13" here) really improves imaging. i also like the TL bass better. Now to make decent looking TL cabinets. My fiance dislikes oak with a passion, so they will be veneered in Walnut or maybe something else.
BTW, the bass was a Carvin Kit. Next one will be from scratch. Not that I can play well enough to justify owning another bass, but this is DIY country.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
well, i have finally taken some decent pics of my system, but the camera died before i got a chance to get a pic of everything...
here are just a few teasers before i get the camera charged. the pics are too big to host here, so im linking from another site.
my little system
here are just a few teasers before i get the camera charged. the pics are too big to host here, so im linking from another site.
my little system