Simply fantastic. Really. I assume you used translam for the cabinet's curved side walls. I have not seen these drivers since the late 80s. At that time I too had made small monitors using the 17W75XL and the then new D260 (which replaced the famous D28af) and floor standers using the 24W100, 17W75XL, D54af, and D21af.
Does Dynaudio still sell to DIYers? I thought they had stopped.
Just a few questions.
a. Why not use the same mid woofer as used in the centre in the left and right speakers? Also why did you used MTM for center instead of W-MT-W?
Front/Right: Dynaudio T330D Esotar, Dynaudio D54, 24W75XL, Dynaudio 30W100XL, Dynaudio 30SL (new slave, changed from Peerless)
Dynaudio Twynn, as center. Dynaudio T330D Esotar, Dynaudio D54, 24W75XL
b. How is the D54 vs the D54af. The D54af is a few db less sensitive but has a flatter off axis and on axis response.
BTW on post 39 below you can see my current systems.
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=110639.20
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Thanks for your kind reply, Sirius815 and Navin!
Dynaudio stop sell speaker drivers to DIYpeople at late 90's. That's why I had to collect drivers for about two years, and got lucky to find most drivers brand new, or sparely used.
The "Finale" was designed for Dynaudio 15W75, but I did not find any, at the time, however, I found a couple used Audio Technology 7" which I thought was better suited.
I believe they are significantly better than Dynaudio 24W75.
About the center, yes, You are right, It's little tiny
And I am planning to build a new center with "W-M-T-T M-W" config. = 2xAudio Technology 7", 2xD54, and 2xT330D.
The A-T 7" are easy to find new (only $1500 for a pair..) but the D54 and T330D are more difficult to lay hand on, in good condition. OK, I'm not in a hurry..
Sorry, but I have not compared D54/D54AF so I'm not sure.
Navin, really nice speaker build, by yourself! Thanks for sharing!
Dynaudio stop sell speaker drivers to DIYpeople at late 90's. That's why I had to collect drivers for about two years, and got lucky to find most drivers brand new, or sparely used.
The "Finale" was designed for Dynaudio 15W75, but I did not find any, at the time, however, I found a couple used Audio Technology 7" which I thought was better suited.
I believe they are significantly better than Dynaudio 24W75.
About the center, yes, You are right, It's little tiny
And I am planning to build a new center with "W-M-T-T M-W" config. = 2xAudio Technology 7", 2xD54, and 2xT330D.The A-T 7" are easy to find new (only $1500 for a pair..) but the D54 and T330D are more difficult to lay hand on, in good condition. OK, I'm not in a hurry..
Sorry, but I have not compared D54/D54AF so I'm not sure.
Navin, really nice speaker build, by yourself! Thanks for sharing!
WHy not go W MT W using 2 7" and only a single mid and tweeter. Most of the power requirements are beloow 500hz anyway and 2 7" will have enough excursion (SPL capability).
Well, I'm have been thrilled by this little beauty:
And I want something like that, but with my own twist, with curved sides and other drivers.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
And I want something like that, but with my own twist, with curved sides and other drivers.
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I.m not sure what you meen with "lobing"? Loop?
Well, I know the crossover will be a challange, but that's the fun part of it, is'nt it?
I have spent years to calculate crossover and study (by my self) to get the best performance out of it, and I will never be fully trained, but still, I do my best.
So, yes, IF I build the "optimal" center speaker, I have a lot of hard work to do.
Well, I know the crossover will be a challange, but that's the fun part of it, is'nt it?
I have spent years to calculate crossover and study (by my self) to get the best performance out of it, and I will never be fully trained, but still, I do my best.
So, yes, IF I build the "optimal" center speaker, I have a lot of hard work to do.
An optimal center speaker would be a tower that's timber matched to your mains. Or if space is a concern(which it usually is), the tweeter and mid should be on the same vertical axis to prevent lobing.
As for Dynaudio employing some fancy crossover to prevent lobing, I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't bother... Just because it's a high end manufacturer making the product, doesn't mean it's perfect or even sounds good.
As for Dynaudio employing some fancy crossover to prevent lobing, I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't bother... Just because it's a high end manufacturer making the product, doesn't mean it's perfect or even sounds good.
Ah, now I understand what you mean with "lobing", thanks Face!
It's easier to calculate the crossover with D and M on vertical axis, and at the same time prevent lobing, am I'm right?
If so, it's maybe better to planning like this:
But instead of the lower tweeter place a mid. like D54 and two 7" as woofer like Navin suggested!?
It's easier to calculate the crossover with D and M on vertical axis, and at the same time prevent lobing, am I'm right?
If so, it's maybe better to planning like this:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
But instead of the lower tweeter place a mid. like D54 and two 7" as woofer like Navin suggested!?
Exactly. Many years ago I built a WW TT WW center speaker using 4 Vifa TC 12cm series woofers and a pair of their tweeters. The reason I had for using 2 tweeters was power handling (the TC series was a very basic series).
The 2 tweeters were in a vertical array (I chamfered the faceplates so that the c-c distance of the 2 domes were as close together as possible). Despite this I had noticeable audible lobing (a phasy effect) that started at around 5-6khz.
I have been wary about lobing since. In the 80s Gross and Polk worked on reducing lobing while improving power handling by using multiple tweeters. They would roll off the tweeters at different frequencies. If i remember right their most extreme design (the Polk SDA-SRS) had 4 tweeters but while all 4 tweeters operated at 1.5khz by 14khz on,ly one tweeter was operating. They called this "Progressive Point Source".
Hi everyone,
I a m not very familliar with this forum but I have heard lots of good things about it, so here is my contribution to show my last project.
It has been built around informations taken from 3 Vejs SB Acoustics
I have put my twist on the cabinet, reworking the volumes and the baffle, a friend helped me upgrade the crosover a bit and lately I replaced the tweeter to a better one.
As you can see, the original Design has on each sides:
1x SB-Acoustics SB29RDC-C000-4
1 x SB12MNRX25-4
2 x SB17NRXC35-8
So this is what I ended up with...
As said earlier, lately I replace the tweeter with the Satori TW29R to reach an even better sound then the original version without even touching the Xover...here is the new look..
These are the best sounding speakers I have ever heard ( and own).
Hope you like it, and I can tell you it is well worth the cost....
Pierre
I a m not very familliar with this forum but I have heard lots of good things about it, so here is my contribution to show my last project.
It has been built around informations taken from 3 Vejs SB Acoustics
I have put my twist on the cabinet, reworking the volumes and the baffle, a friend helped me upgrade the crosover a bit and lately I replaced the tweeter to a better one.
As you can see, the original Design has on each sides:
1x SB-Acoustics SB29RDC-C000-4
1 x SB12MNRX25-4
2 x SB17NRXC35-8
So this is what I ended up with...
As said earlier, lately I replace the tweeter with the Satori TW29R to reach an even better sound then the original version without even touching the Xover...here is the new look..
These are the best sounding speakers I have ever heard ( and own).
Hope you like it, and I can tell you it is well worth the cost....
Pierre
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inConcert Miles, a design from StigErik (tangenavdesign). At the moment having a guest appearance in my living room. Normally they reside in my HT, with a "miniMiles" (Beyma FR15A/2) center and four JBL 8340, but I am expanding my HT and needed a place to store them.
Attachments
Although there are no DIY components, my miniDSP and UMIK-1 mic should arrive shortly. In a few weeks I have to ship out but I'll be back home in the middle of July when I plan to build my first set of speakers.
My system consists of a SAE 2600, SAE 2400, Soundcraftsmen MA5002, Heathkit AA-1800, Heathkit AA-1600, a couple Carver mono-blocks, Heathkit AP-18-Preamp and a Pioneer RT-707 Reel to Reel.
My system consists of a SAE 2600, SAE 2400, Soundcraftsmen MA5002, Heathkit AA-1800, Heathkit AA-1600, a couple Carver mono-blocks, Heathkit AP-18-Preamp and a Pioneer RT-707 Reel to Reel.
Rob41, your speakers look suspiciously like these:
Yup, they are indeed MV-15. Very similar. Mine are PD3's and those MV-15's look like a cross between PD3's and PD18's.
Here is a pic of mine:
My version of the Peerless Nomex 164 (Troels Gravesen)
Here's some pictures of my version of Troels Gravesens Nomex 164, featuring the Nomex HDS exclusive bass driver (830883) and a curved cabinet.
The 830883 unit is very similar to the 830875, but small changes might have to be implemented. Right now I have just adjusted the tweeter by changing the L-pad values to 1.2 Ohm and 15 Ohm, but I might try 1Ohm/18 Ohms as well. I have done a measurement as well and the response is very linear (but with a small dip at the crossover frequency, around 3½kHz). I hope I can fix this by adjusting the Zobel network to the 830883s slightly lower voice coil inductance. (Change C2021 to 3.3uF if you follow the link to Troels' design).
PEERLESS-NOMEX-164
Here's some pictures of my version of Troels Gravesens Nomex 164, featuring the Nomex HDS exclusive bass driver (830883) and a curved cabinet.
The 830883 unit is very similar to the 830875, but small changes might have to be implemented. Right now I have just adjusted the tweeter by changing the L-pad values to 1.2 Ohm and 15 Ohm, but I might try 1Ohm/18 Ohms as well. I have done a measurement as well and the response is very linear (but with a small dip at the crossover frequency, around 3½kHz). I hope I can fix this by adjusting the Zobel network to the 830883s slightly lower voice coil inductance. (Change C2021 to 3.3uF if you follow the link to Troels' design).
PEERLESS-NOMEX-164
