Having recently finished a sealed Tempest sub, I'll try to post a picture here. Finished unfinished Pi Theater 4 on left, driven by Welborne Laurels. Hope this works.
Pictures of the Tempest construction process are at http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/...lery&file=index&include=view_album.php&page=1
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Pictures of the Tempest construction process are at http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/...lery&file=index&include=view_album.php&page=1
doug
those are Ti250 classic edition, 4435 and 4343 with alnico's original grey (economic version) but painted in piano black now.
No filter changes, only bypassed all attenuation knobs(horrible) by fixed resistors and bridged switches by wire.
4343 is ok with accuphase 405 but the filter needs some modification with most amps because of ssssss.
also some diy-stuff coming up soon.
those are Ti250 classic edition, 4435 and 4343 with alnico's original grey (economic version) but painted in piano black now.
No filter changes, only bypassed all attenuation knobs(horrible) by fixed resistors and bridged switches by wire.
4343 is ok with accuphase 405 but the filter needs some modification with most amps because of ssssss.
also some diy-stuff coming up soon.
Hi
Here are AR (audioreview.com) DIYs from Ed Frias. Broke my a$$ making the 3/4 mdf piano finish cabs for these babies. These are my first and the only ones (so far).
Sound comparable to $1000+ speakers on the market. Spent: ~$300
On the right is a Hafler DH200, now upgraded with dual-mono PS and Musical Concepts PA3-A driver boards, Blackgates, etc
Cheers
Alex
link to the pic here
Here are AR (audioreview.com) DIYs from Ed Frias. Broke my a$$ making the 3/4 mdf piano finish cabs for these babies. These are my first and the only ones (so far).
Sound comparable to $1000+ speakers on the market. Spent: ~$300
On the right is a Hafler DH200, now upgraded with dual-mono PS and Musical Concepts PA3-A driver boards, Blackgates, etc
Cheers
Alex
link to the pic here
Attachments
static said:Hmm, the pic in my original post seems to load up now! - very strange - sometimes it works, sometimes it doesnt
With a little moderator intervention... the pic is now embedded into the didyaudio database
dave
static said:Thanks koolscooby
very kind of you to do that
EDIT: Hmm, the pic in my original post seems to load up now! - very strange - sometimes it works, sometimes it doesnt
Cheers
Alex
No problem, it goes for anyone, if you need pic/pics posted, email them to me ...
http://picturehost.koolscooby.net/pictures/For Members of DIY-Audio/DSCF0107.JPG is the one for this post
[edit: looks nice! ]
Re: doug
If I remember correctly, the 4435's used the 2214-H bass drivers.
Thanks; Doug
lieven said:those are Ti250 classic edition, 4435 and 4343 with alnico's original grey (economic version) but painted in piano black now.
No filter changes, only bypassed all attenuation knobs(horrible) by fixed resistors and bridged switches by wire.
4343 is ok with accuphase 405 but the filter needs some modification with most amps because of ssssss.
also some diy-stuff coming up soon.
If I remember correctly, the 4435's used the 2214-H bass drivers.
Thanks; Doug
no Doug perhaps a typo, but woofers in my original 4435's are 2234H.
http://www.jblpro.com/pub/obsolete/443035.pdf
http://www.jblpro.com/pub/obsolete/443035.pdf
JBL's
Sorry Lieven, it wasn't a typo but an error on my part. The 2214-H 12" drivers were used in the 4425 LR monitors. They look the same but are a smaller monitor than the 4435's.
http://www.jblpro.com/pub/recording/4425.pdf
I actually have a pair of 2214-H's LF drivers, brand new, still in the box under my desk for over a year now and have been wanting to do something with them. I was always a JBL Pro fan back when the 4435's were in but could never afford them then. How do they sound after all these years compaired to the new stuff?
Hapy New Year;
Doug
lieven said:no Doug perhaps a typo, but woofers in my original 4435's are 2234H.
http://www.jblpro.com/pub/obsolete/443035.pdf
Sorry Lieven, it wasn't a typo but an error on my part. The 2214-H 12" drivers were used in the 4425 LR monitors. They look the same but are a smaller monitor than the 4435's.
http://www.jblpro.com/pub/recording/4425.pdf
I actually have a pair of 2214-H's LF drivers, brand new, still in the box under my desk for over a year now and have been wanting to do something with them. I was always a JBL Pro fan back when the 4435's were in but could never afford them then. How do they sound after all these years compaired to the new stuff?
Hapy New Year;
Doug
Hi Michael
You were right on the tweeters. They are Vifas D26. The mids and subs are made by the same canadian company. You can see the subs and specs at www.maxspeakers.net . Look for the Caliber series. I have the 12" 4ohm model. You wont find the mids on the website but they are very good quality with an aluminum bullet dome. Tweeter is cut at 3400hz midrange at 500hz and sub has no crossover since the power amp already has a lowpass filter set at 500hz. The box is made out of 1"mdf. We cannot see well on the pictures but the edges are rounded. Is finished with those rolls of vinyl that looks like real veneer and gives a "store bought" look. Total volume of box is 2.2 ft cubic with a rear 4" x 8" port giving me about a 38hz tune but I don't remember well. I should redo a simulation in winisd.
You were right on the tweeters. They are Vifas D26. The mids and subs are made by the same canadian company. You can see the subs and specs at www.maxspeakers.net . Look for the Caliber series. I have the 12" 4ohm model. You wont find the mids on the website but they are very good quality with an aluminum bullet dome. Tweeter is cut at 3400hz midrange at 500hz and sub has no crossover since the power amp already has a lowpass filter set at 500hz. The box is made out of 1"mdf. We cannot see well on the pictures but the edges are rounded. Is finished with those rolls of vinyl that looks like real veneer and gives a "store bought" look. Total volume of box is 2.2 ft cubic with a rear 4" x 8" port giving me about a 38hz tune but I don't remember well. I should redo a simulation in winisd.
Serow said:I. Currently, I'm using two Sansui amps; one for the speakers and a second for the stereo subs seen under the desk. Cheers,
Eric
That looks like a Sansewage R-70.
It has a few minor flaws. Like all the Nikko power amps, it has a glaring flaw: replace the servo/feedback op amp and associated PS and signal coupling components. Then it really clears up and sweetens up.
There is an op-amp in the power section of the R-70. I swapped it out to a TL-072 and then changed the PS buffer caps right at the op amp,and then the signal coupling caps. I used os-con for both caps swaps,as speed is what is required here!. big differenc in the listenability of the amp.
My System Pictures & Description
Here's a picture of my main system - a Cambridge Audio A500 integrated amp and D500SE CD player (interconnect Audioquest Topaz), feeding Monitor Audio MA-202 floorstanding 2-ways and Mirage BPS-150i subwoofer.
Note Beatles shrine on/near right hand speaker!
Here's a picture of my main system - a Cambridge Audio A500 integrated amp and D500SE CD player (interconnect Audioquest Topaz), feeding Monitor Audio MA-202 floorstanding 2-ways and Mirage BPS-150i subwoofer.
Note Beatles shrine on/near right hand speaker!
Attachments
Hi,
I'm slightly ashamed to show my system, because its all such a mess!! I never finish anything, as long as it sounds good, but surely one day I will find the motivation to paint the speakers...
Seen in the pic is:
amp - Roksan Caspian (with added psu caps)
cdp - Marantz CD63ki with new opamps, clock, damping etc..
speakers - Seas Pontus kits (x-overs are becoming external, as seen!)
cabling - Kimber 4PR and 4VS (internal) and Crystal-Cu IC
mains - iso. transformer for amp, cap filter, stripped out Belkin w/braided cord
Not in pic - ported 250l Tempest sub (~20-50hz), cinema stuff...
The sound: finally quite happy, because rewiring with Kimber has removed the harshness I suffered. There is just a slight richening and over fatness at the bottom end, but that's ok
I'm slightly ashamed to show my system, because its all such a mess!! I never finish anything, as long as it sounds good, but surely one day I will find the motivation to paint the speakers...
Seen in the pic is:
amp - Roksan Caspian (with added psu caps)
cdp - Marantz CD63ki with new opamps, clock, damping etc..
speakers - Seas Pontus kits (x-overs are becoming external, as seen!)
cabling - Kimber 4PR and 4VS (internal) and Crystal-Cu IC
mains - iso. transformer for amp, cap filter, stripped out Belkin w/braided cord
Not in pic - ported 250l Tempest sub (~20-50hz), cinema stuff...
The sound: finally quite happy, because rewiring with Kimber has removed the harshness I suffered. There is just a slight richening and over fatness at the bottom end, but that's ok
Attachments
- Home
- Loudspeakers
- Multi-Way
- System Pictures & Description