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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

PSB Stratus gold X-over help
PSB Stratus gold X-over help
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Old 27th February 2013, 12:51 AM   #1
Tony Kopacz is offline Tony Kopacz  United States
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Default PSB Stratus gold X-over help

Hello all. I need to rebuild the x-over on my beloved Golds after I fried the x-over board, I mean burnt by an overheated resistor to the point I can't follow the board traces to get the schematics! I have called PSB and they would only give me the values of the resistors, but no schematics. Can anyone steer me in the right direction??? I will rebuild them one way or another and will post the outcome.
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Old 27th February 2013, 01:45 PM   #2
AllenB is offline AllenB  Australia
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If you could take photos of each side of the board and show the connections to it someone may see how it should go together.
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Old 27th February 2013, 06:19 PM   #3
speaker dave is offline speaker dave  United States
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Did you talk to customer service in Toronto? (Not Boston, engineering is in Toronto) They should have been more helpful than that. If they don't have a drawing, ask if they could just put a PC board on the photocopier or fax/e-mail you a schematic.

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Alternatively, trace out what you do have and attach a picture to the thread. I'll bet we can figure out the missing traces based on what makes the circuit sensible.

David S.
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Old 28th February 2013, 12:56 PM   #4
Tony Kopacz is offline Tony Kopacz  United States
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Thanks for the info I'll give them a call today. Been taking my time with the board and traces. Think I've got the tweeter and woofer figured the mid range is tough.
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Old 28th February 2013, 05:13 PM   #5
Tony Kopacz is offline Tony Kopacz  United States
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Just got off the phone with PSB in Canada. No help. No schematics and they no longer have the Gold x-overs. just the Gold i. The price for one x-over is $330.00! ouch.
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Old 28th February 2013, 05:34 PM   #6
oiphy is offline oiphy  Norway
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PSB Stratus gold X-over help
take pics.... shouldn't be hard to figure out
__________________
" If you're going throu hell, keep going"
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Old 3rd March 2013, 05:51 AM   #7
Tony Kopacz is offline Tony Kopacz  United States
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Sorry it has taken so long to get back. I have figured out the burnt board and have made up a schematic of the circuit.
Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Now I have some questions. Is the translation right from the board to the drawing? The resistors on the midrange are the ones that burnt, the caps didn't look too good either. Why did they get so hot? I have played them loud before with no problems. I'm driving them with a McCormack DNA-1 Special Edition. One more question. I plan on rebuilding the x-over with better quality parts, should I stick with the circuit as is or try to improve on it?
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Old 3rd March 2013, 06:36 AM   #8
PB2 is online now PB2  United States
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It is my day for threads matching my background. I reverse engineered the PSB Stratus Gold years ago and your schematic looks correct from memory. The two 100 uFs feeding the mid looks high but I'm probably just not remembering correctly - you might want to check them.

Check if the midrange is somehow shorted, perhaps due to overheating.
Might as well check all the drivers, just to be sure.

You do not want to change anything but to replace the old electrolytics and damaged resistors - that is an excellent design.
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Old 3rd March 2013, 03:00 PM   #9
Tony Kopacz is offline Tony Kopacz  United States
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Pete, thanks for checking the schematic. I just double checked those 100 uF mid caps. They are correct. Before I start to order parts for the rebuild could you check what you have on the circuit.
What size bypass cap should I use with those 100mF mid caps?
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Old 3rd March 2013, 04:50 PM   #10
PB2 is online now PB2  United States
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Yes the 100uFs are correct. Are you planning to replace electrolytics with the same type?
The shunt on the mid is 10uF in parallel with 5 uF is that correct? I seem to remember when I simulated that a nearly ideal cap, such as a film type with low ESR, had some peaking at the high end of the low pass about .5 ohm added in series to simulate the actual ESR fixed it. You should add a small resistor there if you change to film.
I don't usually use bypass caps.
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