Have looked into postage . Best by far is TNT which is about £50, but I will double check as DHL wanted £129....let me know how you feel about that, there's no rush my end.
Have checked and these 2 bass units are what came with my spare 332s. The ones in my boxes have a different colour cone.
Trying to attach some pics but won't do it from my phone. By the way both cones move nice and smooth
Phil
Have checked and these 2 bass units are what came with my spare 332s. The ones in my boxes have a different colour cone.
Trying to attach some pics but won't do it from my phone. By the way both cones move nice and smooth
Phil
Hi guys. Starbender and I need some assistance. I have 2 spare bass units for his 332s but although they look the same from the front the have different magnets. One is 5" and one 4 3/8" . Both measure 7 ohms.
How likely is it that there will be a noticeable difference in sound or even volume ?
Number on each speaker is LN26 and JP2. Oddly they are both different to the 2 in my 332s.
Thanks
How likely is it that there will be a noticeable difference in sound or even volume ?
Number on each speaker is LN26 and JP2. Oddly they are both different to the 2 in my 332s.
Thanks
Looks like nobody had any experience on that issue.
I have another question;
Originally, celestion used sponge blocks for damping. As you know this speakers are acoustic suspension design. Mine have a lot of missing sponge blocks. Should I use same kind of sponge, or can I use fiberglass or other kind of damping material?
I have another question;
Originally, celestion used sponge blocks for damping. As you know this speakers are acoustic suspension design. Mine have a lot of missing sponge blocks. Should I use same kind of sponge, or can I use fiberglass or other kind of damping material?
Update;
I just finished crossovers and done some tests. Still waiting for spare bass drivers (Thank you so much Phil!).
I got a couple of questions;
All drivers working fine, except woofers. I cannot increase volume due to rubbing vc and sagged surround. My problem is I cannot get enough high frequency response from hf2001 tweeters. Checked all drivers with dmm before installing, all fine. Checked drivers phase and crossover components. Also done some tests with 15khz test tones. No response from tweeters. But when I play some music I can clearly hear they are working. I had to increase treble 10khz>4-6dB. Tested with two different amp and three different source.
How to check hf2001 polarity? There are no polarity markings. Anyone knows which lead is positive?
Any suggestions?
Thanks!
I just finished crossovers and done some tests. Still waiting for spare bass drivers (Thank you so much Phil!).
I got a couple of questions;
All drivers working fine, except woofers. I cannot increase volume due to rubbing vc and sagged surround. My problem is I cannot get enough high frequency response from hf2001 tweeters. Checked all drivers with dmm before installing, all fine. Checked drivers phase and crossover components. Also done some tests with 15khz test tones. No response from tweeters. But when I play some music I can clearly hear they are working. I had to increase treble 10khz>4-6dB. Tested with two different amp and three different source.
How to check hf2001 polarity? There are no polarity markings. Anyone knows which lead is positive?
Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Bass units are still waiting in customs ,,,,,,hopefully be with you soon.
Cant understand why the HFs are not working properly . If there was a mistake with soldering etc on the x/over it would be just one side. Unless there is something wrong with the new caps ratings ?
Hopefully someone on here may understand the problem !
Good luck
Cant understand why the HFs are not working properly . If there was a mistake with soldering etc on the x/over it would be just one side. Unless there is something wrong with the new caps ratings ?
Hopefully someone on here may understand the problem !
Good luck
There is no cold solder joints or misconnections. All cap ratings and resistors are ok.There must be something else. Maybe it's related with my box stuffing? I used foam blocks for stuffing, maybe I added too much and increase lf response, thus this might be blankets hf perception?!
The foam around the HF units should be right up to them. I dont think they need any space around. I have packed the basss units with some foam from my spare units and I am pretty sure that included the foam from the HF enclosure.
Must be someone on here with a suggestion as to the cause of the lack of HF volume ?
Must be someone on here with a suggestion as to the cause of the lack of HF volume ?
Thanks Phil.
One thing still bothers me; Polarity issue is unclear for me. Still, I don't know if any driver needs reverse polarity connection. Do you have any info? Crossover driver connections are ok, but don't know if there is reverse polarity involved or not at the driver side.
Attached hf2001 pic. Any idea which side is positive?
One thing still bothers me; Polarity issue is unclear for me. Still, I don't know if any driver needs reverse polarity connection. Do you have any info? Crossover driver connections are ok, but don't know if there is reverse polarity involved or not at the driver side.
Attached hf2001 pic. Any idea which side is positive?
Attachments
Hi , Just posting my sketch of my 332 crossover for interest of any one else. Also picture of old x-over and updated one.
Starbender do check the resistor for the tweeter as it can be adjusted for volume and may have been altered by the previous owner for a different tweeter .
Starbender do check the resistor for the tweeter as it can be adjusted for volume and may have been altered by the previous owner for a different tweeter .
Attachments
Finally replacement woofers arrived (thank you so much Phil!). I also replaced tweeter caps and 60uf E.C. 8uf replaced with Mundorf EVO, 1.5uf replaced with Claritycap ESA. Removed 60uf electrolytics and soldered 30+30uf MLGO russian pio caps > bypassed with 0.1uf teflon.
Don't know which mod solved my HF output problem, but now I have beautiful and crisp highs!
Ditton 332 back in the main rig
Don't know which mod solved my HF output problem, but now I have beautiful and crisp highs!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Ditton 332 back in the main rig
Polarity of HF2001
About Post #32 :-
See the remains of the Red paint or ink in the center of one of the connection circles -
that indicates Positive Polarity connection at that terminal.
The other side has what looks like a small amount of brown corrosion around the outer of the circular section ,
and that is the Negative Polarity side.
Use of Red paint or ink was a common way of indicating Positive Polarity , and it may still be for some Manufacturers.
Sometimes there was Black paint or ink used for the Negative Polarity connection ,
and with some of the very old drivers White was Positive and those usually had a Black for Negative also.
About Post #32 :-
See the remains of the Red paint or ink in the center of one of the connection circles -
that indicates Positive Polarity connection at that terminal.
The other side has what looks like a small amount of brown corrosion around the outer of the circular section ,
and that is the Negative Polarity side.
Use of Red paint or ink was a common way of indicating Positive Polarity , and it may still be for some Manufacturers.
Sometimes there was Black paint or ink used for the Negative Polarity connection ,
and with some of the very old drivers White was Positive and those usually had a Black for Negative also.
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crossover schematic , and capacitors
The crossover schematic is interesting as it shows that Celestion have Tweeter connected in Positive Polarity
- in their previous Series of 3-way loudspeakers Celestion had Tweeters connected in Negative Polarity ,
thus there will be different overall sound characteristics with this later Series.
What did you have in that Image that is no longer visible in your Post #34 ?
You didn't mention the 3.3uF cap in the Tweeter circuit. It should be replaced also.
Use ClarityCap: ESA or PX , or even PSA if you can't afford either of the others.
Russian K78 series are Polypropylene capacitors - there may be some in suitable values on ebay at prices not too expensive for the Midrange crossover.
Those old Black caps with Red ends are electrolytics and will be past the end of their safe working life now
- all should be replaced so as to not risk damage to the drivers in the 332 and to the output stage of your amplifier when those old caps develop more leakage current through.
This Mail-order seller in Germany:
Strassacker: Lautsprecher - Boxen - Selbstbau
has ClarityCaps , and from there may be lower price to where you are than from UK.
Finally replacement woofers arrived (thank you so much Phil!). I also replaced tweeter caps and 60uf E.C. 8uf replaced with Mundorf EVO, 1.5uf replaced with Claritycap ESA. Removed 60uf electrolytics and soldered 30+30uf MLGO russian pio caps > bypassed with 0.1uf teflon.
Don't know which mod solved my HF output problem, but now I have beautiful and crisp highs!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Ditton 332 back in the main rig
The crossover schematic is interesting as it shows that Celestion have Tweeter connected in Positive Polarity
- in their previous Series of 3-way loudspeakers Celestion had Tweeters connected in Negative Polarity ,
thus there will be different overall sound characteristics with this later Series.
What did you have in that Image that is no longer visible in your Post #34 ?
You didn't mention the 3.3uF cap in the Tweeter circuit. It should be replaced also.
Use ClarityCap: ESA or PX , or even PSA if you can't afford either of the others.
Russian K78 series are Polypropylene capacitors - there may be some in suitable values on ebay at prices not too expensive for the Midrange crossover.
Those old Black caps with Red ends are electrolytics and will be past the end of their safe working life now
- all should be replaced so as to not risk damage to the drivers in the 332 and to the output stage of your amplifier when those old caps develop more leakage current through.
This Mail-order seller in Germany:
Strassacker: Lautsprecher - Boxen - Selbstbau
has ClarityCaps , and from there may be lower price to where you are than from UK.
Honestly, I can't remember what was that image is about. Maybe recapped crossover..
I replaced all caps with film caps first. Sounded terrible. Then changed all of them to Alcaps. It sound about right to my ears.. While digging info at internet, I realize Celestion made a revision for 1.5uf and 3.3uf caps, changed those to pp.. According to this info I replaced 1.5uf with ESA and 3.3uf with Erse PP. Didn't had any good quality cap at that time..
Also I bypassed fuse (something tells me this isn't a good idea!)...
Thanks for the link! It looks like a great site..
the Fuse , and more about Film capacitors
The Fuse was put there to protect the Tweeter for when users played the 332 too loudly ,
or when users has a Low Power amplifier volume turned up to full volume which caused Clipping of the Signal ,
because when Clipping the distortion wave-form has substantially more treble frequencies than are in the music -{ when it is not Clipped }.
If you are playing the 332 at moderate volume levels , and in small or medium sized room -{ not in very large room }- then you will not need a Fuse ,
and usually the sound is better over the long term with no fuse , because the metal terminals of the fuse corrode over time , and that causes audible detriment of the treble sound.
Foil caps can sound worse than electrolytic caps for either of two reasons:
(1)- if they are a low quality type that has too loose windings or not sufficiently tightly attached end fittings for each electrode then the caps will be microphonic - that will add audible resonance to the sound.
(2)- if the Resistance is too low for the particular Circuit if that circuit was designed for electrolytic caps , as electro caps have significantly higher resistance than film caps.
If you still have the film caps , then try a good quality 1.5 ohm resistor in Series with C2 and 1.8 ohm in Series with C3.
If you find that sound is a little more to your liking but still not good enough then swap the two resistors around to 1.8 in series with C2 and 1.5 ohm in series with C3.
If you are still not happy , then one of the resistors may have to be changed to another resistance.
What to change to will depend on whether you want more or less Mid-range sound.
C5 and C6 will not need resistors , but if you are not happy with the treble sound you could change the Erse to a PX or better series ClarityCap , and maybe next change the Mundorf to ClarityCap also.
For C1 you stated: MLGO. Are you sure it is MLGO and not MBGO ?
MLGO is a Mundorf capacitor , and MBGO is one of the Russian types but not a PIO , as it is apparently a Waxed Paper dielectric type , and waxed paper type may be good in the filter for woofer.
I have not used an MBGO thus I do not know how it affects the sound , but if you are not completely happy with the low midrange sound then try 1 ohm 5 watt resistance in Series with C1.
Did you try Russian K78 series film capacitors ? , or what Brand of Film caps is it that you did not like ?
Also , there is a mistake in my last Post , as there is no ClarityCap PSA , it is PWA , but those may not improve much on Erse or Mundorf in Tweeter circuit.
The Fuse was put there to protect the Tweeter for when users played the 332 too loudly ,
or when users has a Low Power amplifier volume turned up to full volume which caused Clipping of the Signal ,
because when Clipping the distortion wave-form has substantially more treble frequencies than are in the music -{ when it is not Clipped }.
If you are playing the 332 at moderate volume levels , and in small or medium sized room -{ not in very large room }- then you will not need a Fuse ,
and usually the sound is better over the long term with no fuse , because the metal terminals of the fuse corrode over time , and that causes audible detriment of the treble sound.
Foil caps can sound worse than electrolytic caps for either of two reasons:
(1)- if they are a low quality type that has too loose windings or not sufficiently tightly attached end fittings for each electrode then the caps will be microphonic - that will add audible resonance to the sound.
(2)- if the Resistance is too low for the particular Circuit if that circuit was designed for electrolytic caps , as electro caps have significantly higher resistance than film caps.
If you still have the film caps , then try a good quality 1.5 ohm resistor in Series with C2 and 1.8 ohm in Series with C3.
If you find that sound is a little more to your liking but still not good enough then swap the two resistors around to 1.8 in series with C2 and 1.5 ohm in series with C3.
If you are still not happy , then one of the resistors may have to be changed to another resistance.
What to change to will depend on whether you want more or less Mid-range sound.
C5 and C6 will not need resistors , but if you are not happy with the treble sound you could change the Erse to a PX or better series ClarityCap , and maybe next change the Mundorf to ClarityCap also.
For C1 you stated: MLGO. Are you sure it is MLGO and not MBGO ?
MLGO is a Mundorf capacitor , and MBGO is one of the Russian types but not a PIO , as it is apparently a Waxed Paper dielectric type , and waxed paper type may be good in the filter for woofer.
I have not used an MBGO thus I do not know how it affects the sound , but if you are not completely happy with the low midrange sound then try 1 ohm 5 watt resistance in Series with C1.
Did you try Russian K78 series film capacitors ? , or what Brand of Film caps is it that you did not like ?
Also , there is a mistake in my last Post , as there is no ClarityCap PSA , it is PWA , but those may not improve much on Erse or Mundorf in Tweeter circuit.
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