Thanks Troels for that and also for maintaining such a great site.
It's thanks that the info on his site that I was able to complete my project with success.
It's thanks that the info on his site that I was able to complete my project with success.
Yes, it started from the moment that I had bought the drivers:
Would I succeed or not ?
Would I have a first class speaker or would I have lost a lot of time and money ?
Would the drivers work nicely together ?
Would the design of the cabinets be OK ?
Would I be able to create a crossover ?
Would it be sensitive enough, phase coherent, not too low impedance, good frequency response?
Would .... plenty of other woulds
But at a certain point I had tried almost all possible filter variations and I was arrived at a version that sounded and measured very good.
At that moment a big smile came on my face
Designing the filter took several months, sometimes I listened to a version for several days and then changed something, listened/measured again and so on...
Would I succeed or not ?
Would I have a first class speaker or would I have lost a lot of time and money ?
Would the drivers work nicely together ?
Would the design of the cabinets be OK ?
Would I be able to create a crossover ?
Would it be sensitive enough, phase coherent, not too low impedance, good frequency response?
Would .... plenty of other woulds
But at a certain point I had tried almost all possible filter variations and I was arrived at a version that sounded and measured very good.
At that moment a big smile came on my face
Designing the filter took several months, sometimes I listened to a version for several days and then changed something, listened/measured again and so on...
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I've got my Raal 140-15 crossed to 2 Neo10 @ 3Khz also. And I do the gradual rolloff into the highs as well. Sounds most natural across a broad range of recordings this way. Unfortunately for me, with the side by side mounting, my off axis is not as pretty as yours.
Nice job! How will the cabinets be finished?
Greg
Nice job! How will the cabinets be finished?
Greg
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Hi Greg,
The cabinets are already finished
The cabinets are in birch multiplex and I like the look of birch, easy finish
But I I have varnished them with three layers of a water based varnish with white pigments to make them even more white.
This gives them a rather white look but you can still see the natural texture of the wood.
Don't use a polyurethane (solvent) based varnish if you want to keep the natural color, because they yellow.
Your built looks great too, should be also very transparent sounding with those Beo10s.
I suppose it's open baffle, the woofer is it passive or active ? Is the woofer sensitive enough to keep up with the Beo10's ?
Regards,
Danny
The cabinets are already finished
The cabinets are in birch multiplex and I like the look of birch, easy finish
But I I have varnished them with three layers of a water based varnish with white pigments to make them even more white.
This gives them a rather white look but you can still see the natural texture of the wood.
Don't use a polyurethane (solvent) based varnish if you want to keep the natural color, because they yellow.
Your built looks great too, should be also very transparent sounding with those Beo10s.
I suppose it's open baffle, the woofer is it passive or active ? Is the woofer sensitive enough to keep up with the Beo10's ?
Regards,
Danny
Ah yes, I see that now. Thanks for the pictures. The finish suits the look of the drivers and a clean modern European house quite well. I used the bamboo plywood for it's strength and rigidity, but also so that I did not have to do any veneering. Just some coats of Tung oil and a beautiful finish. Too easy.
My whole project is active and open baffle except for the sealed pipe subwoofers. Digmoda 552 three way plate amps with DSP, so sensitivity matching is no problem. Besides, the 15" B&C in the baffle is nearly 99dB/SPL, so with the reverse EQ for dipole rolloff, it's fine. Then the subs on either side are using their own servo controlled plate amps. Yes, overkill on power all the way around. Just how I like it!
Greg
My whole project is active and open baffle except for the sealed pipe subwoofers. Digmoda 552 three way plate amps with DSP, so sensitivity matching is no problem. Besides, the 15" B&C in the baffle is nearly 99dB/SPL, so with the reverse EQ for dipole rolloff, it's fine. Then the subs on either side are using their own servo controlled plate amps. Yes, overkill on power all the way around. Just how I like it!
Greg
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That I did not have to do any veneering was also the main reason that I took birch, veneering is almost impossible with that shaped,winged mid/high cabinet.
Forget about that "clean house", sometimes it's like one big DIY project
That's the best setup that you have for open baffle: active with DSP and like you: plenty of reserves in the lows (the most difficult part)
I can imagine that it's sounding very good.
If I'm in the neighborhood I'll drop by for a listen
Forget about that "clean house", sometimes it's like one big DIY project
That's the best setup that you have for open baffle: active with DSP and like you: plenty of reserves in the lows (the most difficult part)
I can imagine that it's sounding very good.
If I'm in the neighborhood I'll drop by for a listen
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If I'm in the neighborhood I'll drop by for a listen
Believe it or not, I've had a few DIYers stop by over the years from very far away when they were on a family trip to Disney World. Good excuse for a speaker geek session! I'm very close.
I'm glad to see that you worked through so many xover revisions. It's really amazing that the average person can now use measurements of his own baffle and simulate crossovers in the computer to be able to get pretty close to a good result right away. This is where a lot of DIYers miss having a really great, optimized loudspeaker. Having to acquire all of those slightly different value components and then the time to reconfigure them all. And even then, you will never be able to make all of the VERY subtle changes possible with DSP. Not for me my friend. I'll take the extra A/D any day to use a laptop and a USB port.
Greg
Yep, without simulation software I would have been unable to create this filter as good.
By just changing a value in the simulation software I could immediately see the impact on the frequency response, phase, impedance and change at crossover point, 100x faster then trying it out with a real crossover.
But for fine tuning you need to play with the result of the simulation with a real crossover in a testsetup.
This is where it is much better in a completely active setup: the hardware/software of the design environment is also the "live" environment.
In my passive setup I needed to translate the result of the software into a hardware filter (coils, caps and resistors).
Going active is finally maturing, the software and hardware are finally reaching a very high level, one nice example is the new Hypex DLCP.
Maybe for a future project
If I go to Disneyland I'll drop by, I suppose it's not the Disneyland near Paris
By just changing a value in the simulation software I could immediately see the impact on the frequency response, phase, impedance and change at crossover point, 100x faster then trying it out with a real crossover.
But for fine tuning you need to play with the result of the simulation with a real crossover in a testsetup.
This is where it is much better in a completely active setup: the hardware/software of the design environment is also the "live" environment.
In my passive setup I needed to translate the result of the software into a hardware filter (coils, caps and resistors).
Going active is finally maturing, the software and hardware are finally reaching a very high level, one nice example is the new Hypex DLCP.
Maybe for a future project
If I go to Disneyland I'll drop by, I suppose it's not the Disneyland near Paris
Truely excellent speakers Danny! (measurement looks great too) Thankyou for sharing Yeah those accuton 10's are too expensive .. I'm gonna check out your 10's
If you could list your drivers in order, with your favourite at the top,,, I'm curious how you'd compare them... (As you know) I'm doing a similar setup, though I've been avoiding the thought of using a plannar twt due to lack of experience
Apple to oranges, I'm curious the order you'd rate your drivers
Congrats on a great job
Yeah those accuton 10's are too expensive .. I'm gonna check out your 10's If you could list your drivers in order, with your favourite at the top,,, I'm curious how you'd compare them... (As you know) I'm doing a similar setup, though I've been avoiding the thought of using a plannar twt due to lack of experience
Apple to oranges, I'm curious the order you'd rate your drivers
Congrats on a great job
Thanks,
To pick out a favorite driver is rather difficult, they all sound very good.
When I listen to my speakers I hear one coherent image, I don't hear the drivers separately.
If I need to pick one then I would say the Accuton mid: it let you look/hear into the music and this completely effortless. It does something very special, it draws you really into the music.
The Raal tweeters are also very good they sound very natural and matches the Accuton very good, the same goes for the Alcone woofers, very pleasantly surprised with the quality that they give, the lowend is very detailed, very easy to hear the different drum and bass lines.
So I'm rather satisfied with all of them
To pick out a favorite driver is rather difficult, they all sound very good.
When I listen to my speakers I hear one coherent image, I don't hear the drivers separately.
If I need to pick one then I would say the Accuton mid: it let you look/hear into the music and this completely effortless. It does something very special, it draws you really into the music.
The Raal tweeters are also very good they sound very natural and matches the Accuton very good, the same goes for the Alcone woofers, very pleasantly surprised with the quality that they give, the lowend is very detailed, very easy to hear the different drum and bass lines.
So I'm rather satisfied with all of them
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