Monacor DN-1218 PAX crossover

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Hi guys,

I bought two new Monacor DN-1218 PAX crossovers but the manual doesn't make any sense to me. An e-mail to Monacor did not result in an answer for two weeks now and Google does not help either so I'll post my question here.

The manual of this crossover (see attached picture) mentions L-pad values for R1 and R2 but there are no R1 and R2 indicated on this crossover board so I don't know where to place or connect the L-pad.

I want to use this crossover with a Fostex MW301 woofer (8 Ohm, 94dB/1W) and a Faital Pro HF10TX compression tweeter (8 Ohm, 109dB/1W). The tweeter therefore needs an attenuation of 15dB to play at the same volume as the woofer but the question is how to add an L-pad to this crossover?

There seems to be left an open space on the board where a resistor network can be placed and the word L-Pad is even imprinted on the board (just behind the screwterminals) but I can't tell how to connect this.

The input connectors on the upperside of the board are pretty obvious, as are the B- and B+ connectors for the woofers. But how about the tweeter connectors? There are connectors marked as H-, HA+ and HB+ but which one do I need? Of course the H- makes sense but do I need the HA+ or the HB+ ? To make it even more complex there are also three screwterminals marked as 1, 2 and 3.

I already found out that an attanuation of 15dB can be achieved by an L-pad with an R1 of 6,58 Ohm and an R2 of 1,73 Ohm and I want to place this L-pad on the crossover board. This seems to be the thing to do but where do I place this L-pad and how do I connect these L-pad resistors ? I would say I need the screw terminals for this? But which one?

I'm totally lost here. I thought that this would be a simple crossover and that it would be easy to place an L-pad on this board on the place of the long metal wire but unfortunatley it isn't so easy. Well, not me me anyway...

I really hope there's a crossover genius over here willing to help me out.

I have used an variable L-pad with a turning knob until now for my speakers (Fostex MW301 woofer and Faital Pro HF10TX in an Altec 9842-A enclosure) until now but the potmeters where beginning to fall apart. I didn't like the idea of any potmeters in my signal path anyway so I decided to use an fixed attenuation L-pad with ceramic resistors now.

The specifications of this crossover board mention an attenuation of 6dB but I don't see any resisors on the board to be responsible for this attenuation !? There is only a piece of metal wire used as a bridge but it seems unlikely that this wire will attenuate anything? Or is the prolonged signal path with the use of this crossover itself responsible for the attenuation of 6dB?

Specifications of the crossover:

Manufacturer: MONACOR
Manufacturer Part No: DN-1218 PAX
CROSSOVER, 2-WAY 600W 8OHM
Attenuation: 6dB
Crossover Frequency A: 2.5kHz
Impedance: 8ohm
Input Power: 600W


Sorry for the long story but I just wanted to make sure to provide you with all the necessary details. Any help will be highly appreciated !!

greetings from Holland,
Romke
 

Attachments

  • IMG_43910.jpg
    IMG_43910.jpg
    693.6 KB · Views: 153
  • IMG_43970.jpg
    IMG_43970.jpg
    712.1 KB · Views: 176
  • IMG_43990.jpg
    IMG_43990.jpg
    350.5 KB · Views: 145
The printing is indicating where you connect pins 1,2,3 of a variable L-pad to the screw terminals, looks like to me. So, R1 is between screws 3 and 2, R2 is between screws 2 and 1.

Thank you for your help! Do I need to connect the tweeter to HA+ or HB+ then? And is there supposed to be a resistor where the metalwire bridge is placed? Do I leave this wire intact?

I'm not trained in this kind of stuff and find it really difficult to understand the supplied drawing so I appreciate your input very much!
 
Ha+ if you install an L-pad as I described. Hb+ for no L-pad. As best as I can tell from the photos, the wire would be the line on the schematic jumping over the optional part labeled "RX", and that should stay there. You could replace the wire with a small resistor to tweak the filter Q, maybe that's what they had in mind, I don't know.
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.