Well, I went ahead and ordered everything. I appreciate everyone's input; I did take a second look at all the suggested alternatives, but the truth is I have looked at and researched just about every design in my price range and many above it. I had pretty much made up my mind to build the NOMEX 164, I just wanted to make sure that nobody had any red flags. In the end, for the money, it's worth a shot for the experience and hopefully a really nice speaker.
I was able to get the price down some due the advice on here which is much appreciated.
If anyone is interested the price to build these comes to $750. That includes air cores, one solid core, one crosscap, standard-z for mid and clarity sa for tweeter, wood, two rolls of veneer, acoustic treatment, solder and all other odds and ends.
I'll take some pictures and give my impressions when I'm finished, which will probably be a month or two.
Cheers,
Evan
I was able to get the price down some due the advice on here which is much appreciated.
If anyone is interested the price to build these comes to $750. That includes air cores, one solid core, one crosscap, standard-z for mid and clarity sa for tweeter, wood, two rolls of veneer, acoustic treatment, solder and all other odds and ends.
I'll take some pictures and give my impressions when I'm finished, which will probably be a month or two.
Cheers,
Evan
Dear satx,
I've just finished my Nomex 164 for a week now, I wait a week more before writing my listening impressions.
Speakers need some time to break in and maybe the tweeter level may need some adjustement.
I can tell you now that the midrange is very nice with lots of details and the soundstage is really large and deep. This speaker can play also very loud. FIY I've tuned de box to 40 hz, tried 45 hz also
You can find some pictures on my blog :
Le blog de pguerin
If necessary you can use google translate
I've just finished my Nomex 164 for a week now, I wait a week more before writing my listening impressions.
Speakers need some time to break in and maybe the tweeter level may need some adjustement.
I can tell you now that the midrange is very nice with lots of details and the soundstage is really large and deep. This speaker can play also very loud. FIY I've tuned de box to 40 hz, tried 45 hz also
You can find some pictures on my blog :
Le blog de pguerin
If necessary you can use google translate
Hi, the bobble that you see in the impedance plot around 180Hz is most likely a resonance that occurs longitudinally down the entire length of the enclosure. Eliminating this would be a good idea and should be achievable by heavily stuffing one of the 'chambers' created between the horizontal cross braces, just don't stuff the chamber with the port in it.
It depends, but any resonance implies a storage and delayed release of energy. In much the same way that cone resonances tend to create peaks in the frequency response and then, if looked at vs time in a CSD plot have associated ridges that take longer to decay then where the frequency response is nominally flat.
A cabinet resonance such as this isn't going to be a game breaker, but it should have some negative impact on the sound quality, perhaps giving a slightly chesty/boomy quality to specific notes.
A cabinet resonance such as this isn't going to be a game breaker, but it should have some negative impact on the sound quality, perhaps giving a slightly chesty/boomy quality to specific notes.
A variety of free programs will measure the impedance, ARTA, Holm Impulse and Loudspeaker workshop. I've used both ARTA and Loudspeaker workshop and both work fine. ARTA's Limp package is quite a bit easier to use both in terms of hardware and software.
And yes, heavily stuffing one of the compartments should be enough to breakup the standing wave.
And yes, heavily stuffing one of the compartments should be enough to breakup the standing wave.
Question about attenuation adjustment
If I chose to use R1061, can I change this resistor to adjust attenuation? Also, should I use a small resistor around the lower woofer's coil (or in series?) to bring up the resistance of the iron core coil I used so that it meets the specs of the one called for? Does this even work and is it necessary?
Design:
PEERLESS-NOMEX-164
Coil:
15 AWG Steel Laminate Coils - Sledgehammer
coil is the 2.25mH
Thanks,
Evan
If I chose to use R1061, can I change this resistor to adjust attenuation? Also, should I use a small resistor around the lower woofer's coil (or in series?) to bring up the resistance of the iron core coil I used so that it meets the specs of the one called for? Does this even work and is it necessary?
Design:
PEERLESS-NOMEX-164
Coil:
15 AWG Steel Laminate Coils - Sledgehammer
coil is the 2.25mH
Thanks,
Evan
Either way will work but you want to leave the area around the port free of stuffing.
Look in the lower right hand of any post's box. There is a button marked 'quote'. Press that on the post you wish to quote, it will autofill/format that quote into a new post, and leave room for you to comment.
You may also delete parts of the quote that are not relevant to your questions/comments, etc... just highlight and delete what you don't want. It's considered polite to not quote whole posts that are large.
Give it a try, it will make perfect sense after doing it once.
The formatting cues are the things inside the hard brackets " [ " I have to use only one so it will show...
There needs to be a begining one, and an end one, the ending one will have the "/ " in front of the instruction.
You most likely deleted the beginning formatting cue when editing my words. Try it again.
There needs to be a begining one, and an end one, the ending one will have the "/ " in front of the instruction.
You most likely deleted the beginning formatting cue when editing my words. Try it again.
Concerning the impedance peak at 156 hz, it is now less important after adding some more stuffing, see attachment.
First, I'm going to work on the tweeter level and modify the lpad with 1.5 and 12 ohms, 2 and 9 Ohms.
A quick test with an equalizer (Linux Jack + Jamin) make me think it need ~1 db more of attenuation.
I've use this calculator with 5 Ohms as driver impedance :
http://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Calculator/LPad/
First, I'm going to work on the tweeter level and modify the lpad with 1.5 and 12 ohms, 2 and 9 Ohms.
A quick test with an equalizer (Linux Jack + Jamin) make me think it need ~1 db more of attenuation.
I've use this calculator with 5 Ohms as driver impedance :
http://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Calculator/LPad/
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