OK, I have decided to build my own speakers. {Dad is happily using his 901s which were repaired[parts express]}
I will use a traditional tower setup..I have searched around and like the impression on Focal's products. I'll tell you what I want from my system. Warm, rich sound and punchy bass...very punchy bass...powerhandling too What should I look in a sub-woofer ( I know that the larger the diamter, the more natural bass it provides)...Also, Is it Ok to use a midbass without a tweeter??? I was interested in planar technology but, most tranducers top out at about 60W...I want atleast 200W RMS max
Remember, this is my first system.
Here's my list:
Subwoofer: HI-VI F10 10" WOOFER 79$
Mid Bass: MW-142 71$
Crossover: Undecided
http://www.gis.net/~morelusa/woofers/mw-142.htm
I may want this to use for mid- high frequencies...saving money...maybe enough to go to better woofers. I'll probably build my own enclosure..So I'll ask what you guys use to cut the circle out..
peace, yes I am a beginner...but, we have to start somewhere.
I will use a traditional tower setup..I have searched around and like the impression on Focal's products. I'll tell you what I want from my system. Warm, rich sound and punchy bass...very punchy bass...powerhandling too What should I look in a sub-woofer ( I know that the larger the diamter, the more natural bass it provides)...Also, Is it Ok to use a midbass without a tweeter??? I was interested in planar technology but, most tranducers top out at about 60W...I want atleast 200W RMS max Remember, this is my first system.
Here's my list:
Subwoofer: HI-VI F10 10" WOOFER 79$
Mid Bass: MW-142 71$
Crossover: Undecided
http://www.gis.net/~morelusa/woofers/mw-142.htm
I may want this to use for mid- high frequencies...saving money...maybe enough to go to better woofers. I'll probably build my own enclosure..So I'll ask what you guys use to cut the circle out..
peace, yes I am a beginner...but, we have to start somewhere.
Unless you like hearing vocals as though they are coming from a woman with a pillow over her face, by no means should you use a midbass driver without a tweeter. In fact, there are very few <i>midranges</i> that I would suggest using without a tweeter, and all of those are ribbon or planar mids.
As for 200 watts rms...
Its a common misconception in audio that your drivers power handling will amount to that of the systems. Generally, the lower you go on the spectrum, the more power the drivers will consume. Tweeters will take the least power, midranges next, and then your bass drivers will consume the most power. However, unless you actively drive your speakers, the crossover is more likely to limit your power handling than your drivers. Remember, if your speakers are of high efficiency, much less than 100 watts can drive your speakers to dangerously high output levels, which you won't enjoy listening to unless you enjoy having your ears bleed and loss of hearing.
If you want a sub, use at least a 12 inch driver. A tuning point of around 25 hz is good. If this is your first system, I'd suggest using a sealed enclosure, they are much easier to design, and much more forgiving to construct. You want it punchier? Use more drivers...
For circles, I use a Craftsman roto tool, but I'd advise using a plunge router with circle cutting jig, such as the Jasper Jig, for cutting holes.
As for 200 watts rms...
Its a common misconception in audio that your drivers power handling will amount to that of the systems. Generally, the lower you go on the spectrum, the more power the drivers will consume. Tweeters will take the least power, midranges next, and then your bass drivers will consume the most power. However, unless you actively drive your speakers, the crossover is more likely to limit your power handling than your drivers. Remember, if your speakers are of high efficiency, much less than 100 watts can drive your speakers to dangerously high output levels, which you won't enjoy listening to unless you enjoy having your ears bleed and loss of hearing.
If you want a sub, use at least a 12 inch driver. A tuning point of around 25 hz is good. If this is your first system, I'd suggest using a sealed enclosure, they are much easier to design, and much more forgiving to construct. You want it punchier? Use more drivers...
For circles, I use a Craftsman roto tool, but I'd advise using a plunge router with circle cutting jig, such as the Jasper Jig, for cutting holes.
Not trying to hijack your project or anything, but here's what I'd suggest for you to get.
Go with the Focal 5k2411 5" polykevlar midbasses ($74.33 each from Parts Express, #297-508).
Get the Dayton 1 1/8" Silk Dome Tweeter. They're only $15.50, but I have heard some awesome things about them. (PE #275-070)
Mix these into a 0.514 cu.ft. vented box with a 3.4" length port that is 2" in diameter. Port it through the rear because it will look so much more sophisticated that way. Make sure that neither the height, nor the width, nor the depth are the same. This box will yield you a F3 of 54 Hz, where the driver is only effective down to 56.4 Hz.
Now, on to the subwoofer. Start with the Parts Express 250-watt amplifier. Then choose the Adire Shiva Mark III (wonderful sub driver, really!) from http://www.adireaudio.com for $125.00 + S&H. It's better than the F12 and better and cheaper than the Dayton Titanic 12". And if you had a bigger, higher-performance subwoofer than the Shiva driver, everything in oyur room would need periodic tightening.
I'm not too sure of myself when designing boxes for dual-voice-coil subwoofers, so I'll let someone else design your Shiva.
Please take these suggestions, as much of the number-crunching has been done for you.
Go with the Focal 5k2411 5" polykevlar midbasses ($74.33 each from Parts Express, #297-508).
Get the Dayton 1 1/8" Silk Dome Tweeter. They're only $15.50, but I have heard some awesome things about them. (PE #275-070)
Mix these into a 0.514 cu.ft. vented box with a 3.4" length port that is 2" in diameter. Port it through the rear because it will look so much more sophisticated that way. Make sure that neither the height, nor the width, nor the depth are the same. This box will yield you a F3 of 54 Hz, where the driver is only effective down to 56.4 Hz.
Now, on to the subwoofer. Start with the Parts Express 250-watt amplifier. Then choose the Adire Shiva Mark III (wonderful sub driver, really!) from http://www.adireaudio.com for $125.00 + S&H. It's better than the F12 and better and cheaper than the Dayton Titanic 12". And if you had a bigger, higher-performance subwoofer than the Shiva driver, everything in oyur room would need periodic tightening.
I'm not too sure of myself when designing boxes for dual-voice-coil subwoofers, so I'll let someone else design your Shiva.
Please take these suggestions, as much of the number-crunching has been done for you.
You may also want to consider the Dayton Series II woofers. They are extremely heavy duty, and are built by Eminence to PE's specifications. Also, I too am not trying to take over your project, but have you ever considered a Transmission Line woofer design? They are capable of producing an enormous amount of low bass, and you will never have a problem with noticeable cabinet resonances. Just to see what one is, if you don't already know, look at my website through the link below. I'm sure you could adapt the TL with a tweeter/mid.
http://home1.gte.net/res0f2t3/web4.htm
Good luck!
-M.A.
http://home1.gte.net/res0f2t3/web4.htm
Good luck!
-M.A.
The reason I suggested the TL speakers is because I have previous experience with both sealed-box and vented enclosures. Sealed-box speakers may have serious problems with cabinet resonances, and I have never liked vented boxes for audiophile systems. Please do some more research on the TLs, believe me, it will save you money in the long run. There is a great project on the Showcase section of the PE TechTalk forum.
BTW, with a 10-12" TL you will have no reason to buy a subwoofer
BTW, with a 10-12" TL you will have no reason to buy a subwoofer
Just finished my first pair....
Hi,
I just finished my first pair and have been very happy with the results. I used the Dayton tweeter (mentioned previously) and a Vifa woofer with a 12db crossover at 2500. The enclosure is sealed.
The funny thing was that my crossover components and correction networks were more expensive than the drivers.
I wanted my first pair to be simple and inexpensive - a recommendation I received from DIY folks and other reference material (Vance's new book), others.
I love the TL idea and may build a pair of those next.
The finished speakers look great (Mahogany stain over red oak veneer). Even the wife likes them.
I think the finishing materials even cost more than the drivers! LOL!!!
Enjoy your new hobby - I know I do.
Ed.
Hi,
I just finished my first pair and have been very happy with the results. I used the Dayton tweeter (mentioned previously) and a Vifa woofer with a 12db crossover at 2500. The enclosure is sealed.
The funny thing was that my crossover components and correction networks were more expensive than the drivers.
I wanted my first pair to be simple and inexpensive - a recommendation I received from DIY folks and other reference material (Vance's new book), others.
I love the TL idea and may build a pair of those next.
The finished speakers look great (Mahogany stain over red oak veneer). Even the wife likes them.
I think the finishing materials even cost more than the drivers! LOL!!!
Enjoy your new hobby - I know I do.
Ed.
Wow
I didn't know about TL speakers before, now that I do...I am soooo building that design. I'm going to build a Daline TL speaker because of its traditionality and, well, it looks fun, the cuts for the wood seem easier than other designs. Is there any mathematical equations and/or formulas pertaining to size, length, thickness for TL speakers?? I'm really interested in this design.
I didn't know about TL speakers before, now that I do...I am soooo building that design. I'm going to build a Daline TL speaker because of its traditionality and, well, it looks fun, the cuts for the wood seem easier than other designs. Is there any mathematical equations and/or formulas pertaining to size, length, thickness for TL speakers?? I'm really interested in this design.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.