When I hear the term "warm" I generally associate that with even ordered harmonic distortion, like that from a tube amp. I don't generally expect to get a "warm" performance from a solid state amp, and I wouldn't expect a speaker to introduce said distortion either, especially at the lower sort of listening levels expected from a 6WPC amp.
I'd be tempted to pull the drivers and have a look in the box at what sort of crossover components are being used... It's possible that all they have done is slap a cap on the tweeter and left the woofer to free range the whole situation, which would cause a fairly annoying on-axis brightness in the ~4-10K range more than likely. It's also likely that the tweeter is anywhere from 3-6db more efficient than the woofer, so if they didn't pad it down with a resistor the system would sound overly bright. Depending on the crossover point they have chosen, an upgrade to a steeper x-over and a lower x-over frequency may also be worth considering. Since you aren't going to be driving these units very hard with that little amp, you could probably get away with dropping the crossover point quite a ways which may help eliminate some on axis brightness from the woofer. If they have the thing crossed at like 4-6K (wouldn't surprise me) then working on the crossover will make the biggest difference IMO.
If you have a router and a proper rabbit joint cutting tool you might consider flush mounting those drivers. I would probably do so by using a piece of 1/4" thick piece of wood, with cutouts for the drivers, just glued to the front of the box. I would want to use a round-over or beveled transition to the tweeter flange face (since the 1/4" will probably be a bit on the thick side for the tweeter flange). That may calm down some of the bright spots.
I'd be tempted to pull the drivers and have a look in the box at what sort of crossover components are being used... It's possible that all they have done is slap a cap on the tweeter and left the woofer to free range the whole situation, which would cause a fairly annoying on-axis brightness in the ~4-10K range more than likely. It's also likely that the tweeter is anywhere from 3-6db more efficient than the woofer, so if they didn't pad it down with a resistor the system would sound overly bright. Depending on the crossover point they have chosen, an upgrade to a steeper x-over and a lower x-over frequency may also be worth considering. Since you aren't going to be driving these units very hard with that little amp, you could probably get away with dropping the crossover point quite a ways which may help eliminate some on axis brightness from the woofer. If they have the thing crossed at like 4-6K (wouldn't surprise me) then working on the crossover will make the biggest difference IMO.
If you have a router and a proper rabbit joint cutting tool you might consider flush mounting those drivers. I would probably do so by using a piece of 1/4" thick piece of wood, with cutouts for the drivers, just glued to the front of the box. I would want to use a round-over or beveled transition to the tweeter flange face (since the 1/4" will probably be a bit on the thick side for the tweeter flange). That may calm down some of the bright spots.
Hi,
Well, I begin by upgrading the cabinet damping which is almost nonexistent in the stock form. The damping upgrade is absolutely essential because the next part of the mod, the crossover, makes so much more bass that without extra damping it would boom badly. For the crossover I change out all components with specific parts except the woofer inductors. Those are the only things that remain.
Do you have the DV62si speakers?
thanks. i was considering buying a pair for the computer.
what type of damping material did you use?
do you have a photo of the crossover?
thanks much.
did you try any of the poly fill stuffing? some say it is pretty good.
another thing, did you consider adding a tweeter adjustment to 'tame the treble'? some say that it is a little louder than the bass.
I did try polyfil but it proved to be next to useless for my purpose.
Because BIC design the DV62si for HT surround application, it is somewhat forward sounding in it's stock configuration. I completely redesigned the treble circuit to not only tame the treble but refine it to sound natural. I decided not to make it adjustable though. I think it hits a sweet spot where it's at but if any tweaking needs to be made then it should be done with the treble control on the amp. I run mine completely flat.
Because BIC design the DV62si for HT surround application, it is somewhat forward sounding in it's stock configuration. I completely redesigned the treble circuit to not only tame the treble but refine it to sound natural. I decided not to make it adjustable though. I think it hits a sweet spot where it's at but if any tweaking needs to be made then it should be done with the treble control on the amp. I run mine completely flat.
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