Thanks, good points. If you can easily find the thread location, it would be useful to post it.
Most of us are, for one reason or another, stuck with low output impedance amps, especially for grunt duty on subs. I suppose one can always insert big power resistors, but adding a light stuff to the slot may be more efficient, and have other desirable properties.
I have not read John's work on damping OB, but the plots above tell their own story.
CLS, do you think that the way you made the slot in front of the speaker is somehow too close to the front (of the speaker)? In other words, I would assume that the front would need a bit of space "to breathe" otherwise the front wave gets choked with a baffle immediately in front of it, or I am wrong. On the other hand, if we choose to make it deeper, it could easily create a cavity which would create undesirable resonances...
Hmm..I hope that Nelson will take his Slot Loaded Open Baffles at the Burning Amp Festival. It's less than two weeks away, and I would appreciate if more people would comment on its sound...
Hmm..I hope that Nelson will take his Slot Loaded Open Baffles at the Burning Amp Festival. It's less than two weeks away, and I would appreciate if more people would comment on its sound...
Yes, but also of a ripole. an N-section ripole. I mentioned something similar earlier in the thread about nelsons design, but it didnt get much of a response. Thankfully another poster (gamjee123) mentioned the same thing a couple of posts back, and i have to agree that it looks like it behaves alot like i would expect an N-Ripole to behave, mass loading of driver to lower Fs, the critical thing to helping a HE OB create bass lower WITHOUT having Qts values suitable for free air. Transiently and BL wise may be far better than a conventional OB with HUGE Qts....
Also large parallels to Karlson loading. whatever the supposed benefit of the exponential K-slot (if any), It clearly operates in a similar fashion, loading the frontside of the driver, by reducing Sd. Downside with the Karlson, is the cavity resonsances that are also created by the somewhat larger front cavity. I reckon if you moved the slot much farther forward, then this design would also develop similar resonances. Best keeping the restriction as close to the driver as practically possible.
All in all, I dont think theres anything much new in this to be honest. interesting just the same.
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Pushing to the extreme, that'd be like the phase plug of a compression driver
Yes! phase plug, throat on the front side, rear 'chamber' vented straight to free air. kinda like front horn loading an OB mid, leaving the back open, except with slightly assymetric air mass load volumes to front and rear, rather than a sealed or vented rear chamber, and a front horn loaded forward face of driver. super easy to model in hornresp, as are ripoles........all much of a muchness
If anyone is thinking about building one of these, I'd *strongly* recommend going push-pull.
Push-pull basically lowers second harmonic distortion for free. It's a no-brainer. I've built quite a few tapped horns, and I found that going push-pull made the $35 MCM 55-2421 sound almost as clean as the $150 B&C 8NDL51.
The B&C still sounds and measures better, but push-pull made an audible and measurable difference.
Did I mention it's a free tweak?
For details on the project, look at this thread
DIYMA.com - Scientific Car Audio - Truth in Sound Quality - View Single Post - Small Tapped Horn For a Car
hi,
I have built the Nelson Pass slot loaded woofers,I bought the 12 Ohm speakers ,so how is it best to wire these,My amps can handle 4 to 8 ohms,but I have read different ways to wire them,so help me out hear with what sounds the best, need to know about the six 12 ohm speakers only not the mids or highs,
Thanks alot,
I have built the Nelson Pass slot loaded woofers,I bought the 12 Ohm speakers ,so how is it best to wire these,My amps can handle 4 to 8 ohms,but I have read different ways to wire them,so help me out hear with what sounds the best, need to know about the six 12 ohm speakers only not the mids or highs,
Thanks alot,
The comparison of this and a horn throat reminds of another thread in which mounting a short horn on an open baffle was discussed. According to Mr. Le Cleache, and my own sims I was working on at the time back it up, the increased path length caused by the horn combined with the group delay can cancel the effect of the back radiation by bringing it more in phase with the front radiation and therefore making a large difference to the low end performance. For what was discussed the speakers were mounted in a "U"frame.
What was not discussed was effect this would have on the sound.
jamikl
What was not discussed was effect this would have on the sound.
jamikl
Hi, +1, no other sensible arrangements with 6 12ohm drivers, rgds, sreten.
hi,
I got the wiring ciphered out now,lol! all series and combine parrell 18 ohms,
3 in parrell and series get 6 ohms so I will try the 6 ohms and see how it goes,
One other Idea is to use 6 amps ,one for each set and if your using the dcx2496 you can play with the crossover points to,anyone have that arrangement going!!!
One other question anyone tried the push pull hook up I am going to try that both ways both push or pull and flip one polarity and see how that sounds .........to be cont.
Happy listening!
I got the wiring ciphered out now,lol! all series and combine parrell 18 ohms,
3 in parrell and series get 6 ohms so I will try the 6 ohms and see how it goes,
One other Idea is to use 6 amps ,one for each set and if your using the dcx2496 you can play with the crossover points to,anyone have that arrangement going!!!
One other question anyone tried the push pull hook up I am going to try that both ways both push or pull and flip one polarity and see how that sounds .........to be cont.
Happy listening!
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