Hello Gent’s, I have been remiss as it’s been sometime since my last post. Today I’d like to solicit advice on a new baffle design/driver arrangement (woofer/mid/tweeter spacing and placement on the baffle) in order to best address combing and diffraction loss issues for my 3 way DIY speakers. I’m having trouble wrapping my head around this and I sure could use some help. 
Thanks in advance, Bill!
The driver information is as follows:
Vifa D27TG-05-06
D27TG-05-06 | Tymphany
Peerless 832873 HDS 5-1/4" Woofer
Speaker driver
Dayton DC380-8 15" Classic Woofer
http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/295-325s.pdf
The second order L/R passive crossover points (theoretical) currently in use are as follows:
Dayton: Low Pass 300 Hz
Peerless: Band Pass 300-3000 Hz
Vifa: High Pass 3000 Hz
Thanks in advance, Bill!
The driver information is as follows:
Vifa D27TG-05-06
D27TG-05-06 | Tymphany
Peerless 832873 HDS 5-1/4" Woofer
Speaker driver
Dayton DC380-8 15" Classic Woofer
http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/295-325s.pdf
The second order L/R passive crossover points (theoretical) currently in use are as follows:
Dayton: Low Pass 300 Hz
Peerless: Band Pass 300-3000 Hz
Vifa: High Pass 3000 Hz
It looks good, nice 5 Inch Mid. You need to curb the curve on the woofer totally >300/500Hz then. It doesn't have very soft natural attenuation on high frequency for a xover with the mid, that's the problem. It just needs more xover components and testing/simulation... From your post it's just baffle/box design that you need.
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Perhaps, however current baffle placement is wrong on many levels. These started as a 4 way speaker project which almost everyone told me would be a nightmare (and they were). They also told me my driver/baffle placement was off (yet I insisted on re-using some existing, poorly designed/executed cabinets). To further illistrate my point I'll attatch some pics.
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Ok Bill, the baffle/speaker looks great (OB?), congratulations, you are ready for a new one... good
What about the xover then
Hi BIll,
BDS (Baffle Diffraction Simulator) will help you get an idea of how the driver placement (and baffle size) will affect the freq response. I don't think it will help with combing though.
From memory (and I could well be wrong, so check!!) The closer together the mid and the tweeter the less of a problem combing will be.
Tony.
BDS (Baffle Diffraction Simulator) will help you get an idea of how the driver placement (and baffle size) will affect the freq response. I don't think it will help with combing though.
From memory (and I could well be wrong, so check!!) The closer together the mid and the tweeter the less of a problem combing will be.
Tony.
The Dayton worked just fine as a .5, however I discovered that the Adore Audio AV8 was "beaming" (?) so I removed it from the circuit and changed the x/o to bring the Dayton in at 300 (where the peerless is crossed over). I like them in this x/o configuration although with the 15 running up to 300 you can hear a "separation" (?) in the frequencies while listening due to the distance on the baffle between the mid/tweeter and the 15, I think?
Oh my, no!
This is part of what I wanted to know.
I will get them closer together and vertical this go round. I would like to know if the mid/tweeter should be "shifted" to one side or the other of the new baffle (kind of like those 70's multi-way speaker designers did) or placed dead center above (and as close to as possible) the Dayton?
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Yeah Bill even a little to one side helps smooth thing out as does really big round-overs on the edges.
What has happened to the 8inch woofers?
What you are after by the query is an old fashioned 3-way, which are great Rock&Roll speakers and if things are done well, usable for classical music too.
For R&R make the box too small to give that big bass kick for classical make the box as big as possible.
What has happened to the 8inch woofers?
What you are after by the query is an old fashioned 3-way, which are great Rock&Roll speakers and if things are done well, usable for classical music too.
For R&R make the box too small to give that big bass kick for classical make the box as big as possible.
The B&W website has very good technical information behind the 801 and Nautilus, both which use a sphere to control rear cone waves and a tapered tube to attenuate/absorb the energy. "out of the box" thinking
The woofer design puts the port on the bottom of the cabinet, and raises the front and sides to direct the port eneregy forward into the room. The first 801 used a single 15" woofer, a later design used two 10" woofers to allow a narrower cabinet.
The woofer design puts the port on the bottom of the cabinet, and raises the front and sides to direct the port eneregy forward into the room. The first 801 used a single 15" woofer, a later design used two 10" woofers to allow a narrower cabinet.
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When you say to round the edges big, what radius what be best?
From my earlier post, "..however I discovered that the Adore Audio AV8 was "beaming" (?) so I removed it from the circuit and changed the x/o to bring the Dayton in at 300..."
If thats what they are called, then yes!
Yes this out of the box thinking and I love them, however I believe these designs are also "out of my reach"!
Although I'd love to figure out a way to narrow the baffle above the 15 without having to have one of those fancy CNC wood machines. Would there be any sonic draw backs to doing sort of a "rectangular box above a square box" type deal?
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Big as possible, say 45 degree bevel cut with a saw then the edges smoothed, 55 - 65mm
Do a tapered baffle, wide at the bottom narrow at the top with the second box ( midrange chamber) hidden behind the front baffle.
Did you get any second opinions on what you call "beaming" from the 8inch? May have been a subtle SPL effect if it was too efficient for the mids or a slight phasing issue as the specs for that woofer were quite good in a sealed box.
I still think a 3.5 way with the 15 facing the back ( my initial thought experiment ) would be the best use of the drivers you have )
Do a tapered baffle, wide at the bottom narrow at the top with the second box ( midrange chamber) hidden behind the front baffle.
Did you get any second opinions on what you call "beaming" from the 8inch? May have been a subtle SPL effect if it was too efficient for the mids or a slight phasing issue as the specs for that woofer were quite good in a sealed box.
I still think a 3.5 way with the 15 facing the back ( my initial thought experiment ) would be the best use of the drivers you have )
Sort of like an irregular rectangle?
Yes, I remember you saying so.
People said they heard "something off" but they, like I, cant seem to put it into words?
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