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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Screwing: Just say no?
Screwing: Just say no?
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Old 6th July 2009, 02:36 AM   #11
Drew Eckhardt is offline Drew Eckhardt  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by Drew Eckhardt


Wood filler + sandable filler primer make them invisible under paint.
Like this on the H-frame baffle. You can't spot the screw holes or difference between MDF "face" and "end grain".
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Old 6th July 2009, 02:45 AM   #12
cocolino is offline cocolino  Germany
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Quote:
originally posted by Drew Eckhardt
Wood filler + sandable filler primer make them invisible under paint.
Yes, but only for a few weeks until they "sneak through" again (at least visible as small bumps or irregularities of the surface, be it laquer or sometimes even with thin veneer)
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Old 6th July 2009, 02:56 AM   #13
brucegseidner is offline brucegseidner  United States
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Default Glue and screw: Is this being taped?

In the distant past I would fashion 1x2 frames and glue and screw sheets of cheap ply or particle board onto them. The screws seemed a substantive contribution to the integrity of the cabinet. With time and resources came better plywood and MDF used in cabinet making. I also found better glues like Tightbond in the 80's and the screws seemed more a way to ensure consistent clamping of the materials. I never owned or even knew about clamps. As I gear up to build some large horns I have been fascinated by the abundance of clamping choices. The section of Lowes I have been frequenting would make any bondage fan blush. But just as I was about to buy a lot of these puppies I read a thread by a fellow who successfully used heavy blue masking tape to complete a large columnar enclosure. Apparently, one can consummate a lasting and loyal bond with glue alone these days. Tightbond III specs read like a covenant. I may well indulge in some corner clamps to align boards but I have a suspicion that the screws are redundant. Clearly gratifying, but unnecessary for a lasting relationship.
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Old 6th July 2009, 05:11 AM   #14
Conrad Hoffman is offline Conrad Hoffman  United States
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Yeah, I bought some of that Titebond III and the stuff is fantastic. I never thought there was much difference between wood glues, but it's stronger, dries faster and is waterproof. Highly recommended- no I don't own stock in the company and think it probably costs too much, but it's worth it.
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Old 6th July 2009, 05:29 AM   #15
Drew Eckhardt is offline Drew Eckhardt  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by cocolino


Yes, but only for a few weeks until they "sneak through" again (at least visible as small bumps or irregularities of the surface, be it laquer or sometimes even with thin veneer)
The following post's attached picture was taken six years after the speakers were finished and moved cross-country twice with homes ranging from alpine desert to within five blocks of the sea (Puget Sound).

No visible or tactile distinction between screw holes, MDF face, and MDF "end grain" even in person (bad digital cameras stink before the resolution is reduced).

Finishes controlling moisture movement (and therefore expansion or lack thereof) on both sides of finished surfaces are a fine idea.

Flat black paint is hard to keep dust-free, even with a cleaning service coming in every two weeks.
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Old 6th July 2009, 10:50 PM   #16
brucegseidner is offline brucegseidner  United States
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Default playing all the angles, its hip to be square

I have been Googling wood joinery to see what is new or old (that works) and came upon these square and adjustable Rockler clamping jigs. They seem very flexible and would work with my existing clamps.

Likely old news to many, but I had never seen a commercial product like this. I had used scrap blocks of wood to serve this purpose but these seem well made and reasonably priced.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t9i0DuAuTgw

Now what I am looking for is some kind of drill accessory that would act as a small drill press/guide for a drill. I have a drill with a bubble level that is helpful but would want something that would make a drill act like a plunger router.

I am planning on using dowels in my next project and have run into problems in the past when off kilter.
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Old 7th July 2009, 12:33 AM   #17
Pano is online now Pano  United States
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Screwing: Just say no?
Default Re: playing all the angles, its hip to be square

Quote:
Originally posted by brucegseidner
Now what I am looking for is some kind of drill accessory that would act as a small drill press/guide for a drill.
Those have been around for years and are super handy. I bought my first one in Paris over 20 years ago after seeing an in store demo. Fantastic tool.

You can get them at most Lowes/Home Despot these days.

The Rockler thing is cool. I just use corner clamps like this
Click the image to open in full size.

Fixed or ajustable. Very handy.
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Old 7th July 2009, 12:43 AM   #18
jupiterjune is offline jupiterjune  United States
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I like to make double walled boxes. The inner box gets glued and screwed together with but joints. The outer panel is either plywood or veneered MDF that is glued and screwed on. But the screw heads are on the inside of the cabinet so they never show through.

I really like gorilla glue, aka polyurethane glue. I read an article in Fine woodworking that yellow glue and others are stronger, but I've had MDF that was glued together with yellow glue come apart. Never happens with PU glue.

hope this helps.

JJ
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Old 7th July 2009, 12:56 AM   #19
tinitus is offline tinitus  Europe
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Screwing: Just say no?
Long time ago I tried wood plugs

I assembled using screws
But took them out again once glue was strong
Drilled all screw holes and drove in wood plugs, with glue
Made them smooth with surface, and no filler
Looked ok with some wood stain and clear laquer
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Old 7th July 2009, 01:48 PM   #20
tizeye is offline tizeye  United States
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While everyone has concentrated on screws, drilling, filling, and finishing - overlooked one area. If routing a 3/4 round on the 3/4 MDF front baffle, where do the screws go? Can't go in the roundover so the choice is either 1) glue and use the woofer hole for interior access, or 2) screws at the 4 corners into internal bracing plus sealing felt/tape, and those 4 points become the anchors for a grill. Personally, I prefer the glue method with embedded/hidden magnets to support an optional grill without holes. If painting the box, interior drill for the magnets, otherwise top drill hole fo magnets and veneer cover.
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