Hi guys, someone at a shop scetched up a crossover that I could use for a Vifa P17WJ series and a D27TG45 tweeter.
I'm guessing from looking at it that its a 12db / octave but some of the values look odd to me, at least compared to some numbers I get from some programs when I punch in points starting from 2000 and upwards to 4K. I know that what programs give and what happens in the real world are different but I'm at least trying to figure out roughly what the crossover point is.
Also I'm assuming that some of the extra stuff there is for padding down output and maybe some kind of extra filter on the woofer? Maybe some kind of notch filter? I'm a noob so please and thanks...any suggestions welcome.
I'm guessing from looking at it that its a 12db / octave but some of the values look odd to me, at least compared to some numbers I get from some programs when I punch in points starting from 2000 and upwards to 4K. I know that what programs give and what happens in the real world are different but I'm at least trying to figure out roughly what the crossover point is.
Also I'm assuming that some of the extra stuff there is for padding down output and maybe some kind of extra filter on the woofer? Maybe some kind of notch filter? I'm a noob so please and thanks...any suggestions welcome.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I am not that good at XO's but I can help a little, I think.
The cap coil and resistor parallel to the woofer are known as a series notch filter. This is usually done to control the ever increasing impedance of the woofer coil as the frequency rises although some also use it to create a notch filter similar to the parallel notch filters. It gets a little confusing because a series notch filter runs parallel to the driver whereas a parallel notch runs in series with the driver. They are named as such because of the orientation of the components to one another.
I can't tell you what the .47 cap and resistor are for, it's beyond my knowledge. It looks to somehow allow frequencies above 15K to enter the woofer circuit so I'm guessing there's more to it. The woofer looks to have a 1st order or 6dB per octave low pass.
The tweeter has 3rd order, 18dB per octave high pass.
I didn't look up the info on the drivers so I can't tell you what the XO frequency is.
The cap coil and resistor parallel to the woofer are known as a series notch filter. This is usually done to control the ever increasing impedance of the woofer coil as the frequency rises although some also use it to create a notch filter similar to the parallel notch filters. It gets a little confusing because a series notch filter runs parallel to the driver whereas a parallel notch runs in series with the driver. They are named as such because of the orientation of the components to one another.
I can't tell you what the .47 cap and resistor are for, it's beyond my knowledge. It looks to somehow allow frequencies above 15K to enter the woofer circuit so I'm guessing there's more to it. The woofer looks to have a 1st order or 6dB per octave low pass.
The tweeter has 3rd order, 18dB per octave high pass.
I didn't look up the info on the drivers so I can't tell you what the XO frequency is.
Wow thank you Inductor. I feel better now. I wasnt sure if the components would have been right just because it didnt seem to line up with what most programs were generating for standard component lists.
I should say that the shop I got the crossover setup from does custom speakers but I wanted to doublecheck because it just seemed to be so quick that the person came up with the crossover. I guess he's very familiar with the combo.
I'll let you guys know how the speaker turns out and I'll post some pics. I think I'll be done in a week.
...now to find out how to come up with high gloss black finish. I was going to paint the speakers black, then put clear on it and wet sand the clear and buff it. I'd think this should give me a black glassy look - kind of like a paino
I hope anyway.
I should say that the shop I got the crossover setup from does custom speakers but I wanted to doublecheck because it just seemed to be so quick that the person came up with the crossover. I guess he's very familiar with the combo.
I'll let you guys know how the speaker turns out and I'll post some pics. I think I'll be done in a week.
...now to find out how to come up with high gloss black finish. I was going to paint the speakers black, then put clear on it and wet sand the clear and buff it. I'd think this should give me a black glassy look - kind of like a paino
I hope anyway.
Tino said:
Well, you can say that Tino, he is a genius. If this speaker is for a Solid S Amp, I wouldn't change a thing (the wo is phase aligned with the tw 100% in the xover band). If you want to make some tests and experiences (you can also) try this one, were you can change the attenuation on the L-Pad. (It's set for ~7dB on 6Ohms circuit). Feel free to Diy. Use audio grade quality resistors with enough power for your app. and non inductive for top freqs.
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Sweet. Thanks again Maybe I should go to the shop and ask them if they wouldnt mind me giving them some praise on this forum and their store details. I dont think they are very active on the web...they are more old school. They sell components and do custom speakers and studios. Long ago I heard someting they built and its left me floored still. It was a pair of Dynaudio 6.5" woofers and a Focal tweeter in some monster floor standing setup. It was 6' tall and the drivers were angled a little. Top driver was angled down a few degrees and bottom driver angled up and tweeter in the middle. Its the best speaker I've heard I think.
If these drivers were current production drivers, I'd feel guilty about posting it since it might have meant lost sales and stuff but when I was speaking to the main guy, he said they dont make these drivers anymore or something like that. Anyway he did sound really smart and now that I can see on the graph, teh approx freqency response and crossover points, I am happy
Maybe I should go to the shop and ask them if they wouldnt mind me giving them some praise on this forum and their store details. I dont think they are very active on the web...they are more old school. They sell components and do custom speakers and studios. Long ago I heard someting they built and its left me floored still. It was a pair of Dynaudio 6.5" woofers and a Focal tweeter in some monster floor standing setup. It was 6' tall and the drivers were angled a little. Top driver was angled down a few degrees and bottom driver angled up and tweeter in the middle. Its the best speaker I've heard I think. If these drivers were current production drivers, I'd feel guilty about posting it since it might have meant lost sales and stuff but when I was speaking to the main guy, he said they dont make these drivers anymore or something like that. Anyway he did sound really smart and now that I can see on the graph, teh approx freqency response and crossover points, I am happy
Probably (they were) it's a John Dunlavy design. He used it (tweeter D27TG-35-06 and D27TG-45-06) in the Dunlavy Audio Labs Signature SC-VI loudspeaker. Have fun.
Read about John
http://www.stereophile.com/interviews/163/
Read about John
http://www.stereophile.com/interviews/163/
Re: Help 2.5
big1,
You can adjust the xover yourself from this one here.
1) If you feel that you need the midbass stronger right before and over the xover band give it a 0,82mH in the place of the 0,9mH.
2) If you want to reduce the 2 Vifa P17WJ a little, for 1dB or soo, place a 1,0mH instead.
Also use the thickest wire for the inductor that you can find, not less than 100W, 16AWG should be better than 18AWG.
Note: This is just a simulation and might not be exact.
big1 said:
big1,
You can adjust the xover yourself from this one here.
1) If you feel that you need the midbass stronger right before and over the xover band give it a 0,82mH in the place of the 0,9mH.
2) If you want to reduce the 2 Vifa P17WJ a little, for 1dB or soo, place a 1,0mH instead.
Also use the thickest wire for the inductor that you can find, not less than 100W, 16AWG should be better than 18AWG.
Note: This is just a simulation and might not be exact.
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