Hello everybody,
This is my first post in this forum.
To introduce myself: I am a French sound lover and audio diyist.
This is my last home made speaker:
The drivers used:
Woofer: Vifa PL22WR09-08
Midrange:Vifa PL11MH09-08
Tweeter:Seas 27TFFC
The crossover frequencies are (12db)300Hz(6db) and (6db)4000Hz(12db)
I still have a lot to learn in this field and I think this forum will be very helpful.
This is my first post in this forum.
To introduce myself: I am a French sound lover and audio diyist.
This is my last home made speaker:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The drivers used:
Woofer: Vifa PL22WR09-08
Midrange:Vifa PL11MH09-08
Tweeter:Seas 27TFFC
The crossover frequencies are (12db)300Hz(6db) and (6db)4000Hz(12db)
I still have a lot to learn in this field and I think this forum will be very helpful.
I( will admit that your use of 'leather' on the sides has me furiously thinking of it on my sides. thanks, always good to suddenly go off in another direction after seeing something else.
any build pics I can get further inspiration from?
have you applied it direct to the panel or is there some sort of foam?
Very nice joint work on the leather...hmmmmm
a few build pics would be sweeet
so the leather stretches quite well at the corners of the baffle etc? or is there some trick of the trade
stunning, I am envious
any build pics I can get further inspiration from?
have you applied it direct to the panel or is there some sort of foam?
Very nice joint work on the leather...hmmmmm
a few build pics would be sweeet
so the leather stretches quite well at the corners of the baffle etc? or is there some trick of the trade
stunning, I am envious
domtw said:
look forward to it, thanks. have already dashed out ans bought some fake leather, and started doing experiments.
sorry, but I am stealing your idea! and my enthusiasm for the project has been re-juvenated.
glad you posted.
not sure the extra expense for leather is worth it? how about from your end, is there a substantial difference in feel, look or whatever?
Here are a sample of pictures, showing the different parts and different inside cuts...
I thought I made more picture but obviously I was too busy in the construction process to take a lot of shots.
I don't have images of the leather part...
The tops and bottoms covered with leather mainly have a decorative purpose, exch box is already closed without them...
I could disassemble some tops or bottoms and take pictures but I wont do that right now, you might have to be patient.
For the leather, the technic is quite simple: each bottom, top and front panel are fixed to the boxes with wood pegs. There is also one extra thin plywood glued on the inner side of each of them, about 10mm smaller from from the edges. This way, the extra thickness of leather coming back inside is compensated and it wont temp to push the parts apart...
Stretching the leather around the corners isn't that difficult and after a short practice it will go smoothly. Use some staples to keep it tight while the glue dries.
The front panels themselves are now glued and cannot be disassembled but the tops and bottoms are not glued yet, they are fixed to the cabinets with the wood pegs...
I also take ideas from others and I am happy than others take mine...
What is your project ? Also in separated cabinets ?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I thought I made more picture but obviously I was too busy in the construction process to take a lot of shots.
I don't have images of the leather part...
The tops and bottoms covered with leather mainly have a decorative purpose, exch box is already closed without them...
I could disassemble some tops or bottoms and take pictures but I wont do that right now, you might have to be patient.
For the leather, the technic is quite simple: each bottom, top and front panel are fixed to the boxes with wood pegs. There is also one extra thin plywood glued on the inner side of each of them, about 10mm smaller from from the edges. This way, the extra thickness of leather coming back inside is compensated and it wont temp to push the parts apart...
Stretching the leather around the corners isn't that difficult and after a short practice it will go smoothly. Use some staples to keep it tight while the glue dries.
The front panels themselves are now glued and cannot be disassembled but the tops and bottoms are not glued yet, they are fixed to the cabinets with the wood pegs...
I also take ideas from others and I am happy than others take mine...
What is your project ? Also in separated cabinets ?
About the real leather: of course it looks and feel better than the fake one.
My first idea wasn't leather (real or fake) for the curved sides. So I didn't have enough of the real one. but I am quite happy with the result and the 2 materials together.
The real one cost much more, that's a fact. But I am lucky to know a big leather distributor who could sell it to me for a reasonable price...
My first idea wasn't leather (real or fake) for the curved sides. So I didn't have enough of the real one. but I am quite happy with the result and the 2 materials together.
The real one cost much more, that's a fact. But I am lucky to know a big leather distributor who could sell it to me for a reasonable price...
domtw said:
no, not seperate cabinets, but what I have in my head right now will make them look like they're built up from seperate cabs (into one complete non-seperate box), which they are. this idea of 'yours' has simplified it no end.
Was going to veneer it, but I foresaw many problem in getting the perfect finish.
Don't worry, it is full steam ahead here again (have done nothing for months!!) and when I have pics on progress, I will put in a quick link to this thread to acknowledge my inspiration, and will put a link in to it here too.
Would love to get your thoughts in return.
The ,missus doesn't really care what they look like, but she loved yours so good all round
I made the crossover by trying multiple combination of Capacitors, inductors and resistors. Each time I checked the frequency response and listen to a few different kind of music...
This process took a long time and hopefully I have a large enough collection of those components.
I haven't tried Xover design software yet...
This process took a long time and hopefully I have a large enough collection of those components.
I haven't tried Xover design software yet...
All the parts were made in MDF with a router, the main shape by drawing arcs in a big board (to have their centers on the same board). I used the copy router bit (with bearing) to make plenty of them...
For the top and bottom slope, I also used the router with a 10mm diameter bit. I moved the router parallel to the straight side I went deeper and deeper while going away from this straight side. Some of those "parallel lines" were not carved otherwise the router would not have been standing on a flat support.
Then I sanded all what was left up.
I am not sure if I am clear here...
For the top and bottom slope, I also used the router with a 10mm diameter bit. I moved the router parallel to the straight side I went deeper and deeper while going away from this straight side. Some of those "parallel lines" were not carved otherwise the router would not have been standing on a flat support.
Then I sanded all what was left up.
I am not sure if I am clear here...
domtw said:
http://www.rjbaudio.com/Audiofiles/FRDtools.html
http://www.geocities.com/woove99/Spkrbldg/DesigningXO.htm
http://www.zaphaudio.com/
http://www.rjbaudio.com/projects.html
http://www.geocities.com/woove99/Spkrbldg/
Hi,
The above is plently enough to get you started.
For a 3-way doing it by ear is very difficult, subtle compensation
effects almost impossible without seeing the effect of varying
each component, and checking reverse nulls for good phase.
/sreten.
I made the crossover with an ECM800 and the measurement made with ARTA in my living room.
Since then, I have the in box measurements of the impedance and the FR of each driver, made in a university's anechoic chamber.
The student even lend me the software LEAP and its electronic key.
My main problem to try designing a new crossover with this tool is the lack of time (I unfortunately have to work )
I have an other problem with LEAP. The key works on the printer port (25pins) but my PC doesn't have it. I bought a USB to Printer port adapter but couldn't make it work since I tried. (yesterday evening)
I don't think it's gonna work with the actual setup...
I also cannot keep it for too long, so I will probably try other ways...
Thanks
Since then, I have the in box measurements of the impedance and the FR of each driver, made in a university's anechoic chamber.
The student even lend me the software LEAP and its electronic key.
My main problem to try designing a new crossover with this tool is the lack of time (I unfortunately have to work
)I have an other problem with LEAP. The key works on the printer port (25pins) but my PC doesn't have it. I bought a USB to Printer port adapter but couldn't make it work since I tried. (yesterday evening)
I don't think it's gonna work with the actual setup...
I also cannot keep it for too long, so I will probably try other ways...
Thanks
domtw said:
Been there myself. Hardware keys are notorious for not working over a USB adapter. I can almost guarantee this would work for you:
http://www.quatech.com/catalog/parallel_pcmcia.php
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