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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Midrange Crossover: Choosing the least of all evils?
Midrange Crossover: Choosing the least of all evils?
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Old 4th November 2008, 10:59 PM   #11
Cal Weldon is offline Cal Weldon  Canada
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Midrange Crossover: Choosing the least of all evils?
I'm guessing we can assume 3 things without knowing about the drivers.

1 Cross the mid over at no lower than 2X the Fs.
2 Cross the woofer over before the onslaught of cone break up.
3 Ensure the power handling of the mid corresponds to that of the woofer at the chosen XO frequency and slope.

EDIT: I just realized I gave advice for driver whose parameters are known. Not much help, sorry
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Old 5th November 2008, 06:57 AM   #12
TheSeekerr is offline TheSeekerr  Australia
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Hi folks,

Don't worry about it...the junk drivers are gone - I pointed out to my friend that getting the lot going again was going to cost actual money, and he decided that it might be time to upgrade to some other cheap garbage.

Measurement software isn't that expensive - I've already played with Speaker Workshop, and it's not that hard to use. Getting a mic going is a little more effort, but only because the locally available electrets are garbage.

Really, I was only after some advice, a list of the things to consider. I've scraped together that from this thread.

My belief that "crossovers are evil" isn't particularly deeply rooted. I just have this mental block about having an overlapping section between drivers in vocal fundamental frequency region - I can't shake the feeling that it's going to "smear" the sound. I've got nothing against crossing a tweeter in low, I just don't like the idea of having a woofer reproducing the lower midrange.
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Old 5th November 2008, 07:29 AM   #13
454Casull is offline 454Casull  Canada
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Drivers cross themselves over, too. Don't worry too much about it.
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Old 5th November 2008, 08:06 PM   #14
Andy G is offline Andy G  Australia
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Default cross-overs are not evil...


"Bad" cross-overs are evil, be they passive or active.

If implemented well, then they shouldn't be an issue where ever you cross.

Having said that, I too, try to avoid crossing between say 300 and 2000.

ps. I'm glad your friend dumped the Sony's.


Note my location.
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Old 6th November 2008, 02:28 AM   #15
TheSeekerr is offline TheSeekerr  Australia
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Hi Andy G - your location has been and is noted - while Australians seem quite well represented on this forum, New South Wales seems strangely quiet!

For all that everyone suggests that you should avoid using rules of thumb, why not, so long as it does no harm?

(I'm rather glad too, I can't do woodwork for peanuts. On the downside, he'll probably go and buy a "stereo" iPod alarm clock or something)
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Old 6th November 2008, 02:43 AM   #16
KBK is offline KBK  Canada
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Default Re: cross-overs are not evil...

Quote:
Originally posted by Andy G

"Bad" cross-overs are evil, be they passive or active.

If implemented well, then they shouldn't be an issue where ever you cross.

Having said that, I too, try to avoid crossing between say 300 and 2000.

ps. I'm glad your friend dumped the Sony's.


Note my location.

Yep. Ideally the midrange should have an output that is about 2 db overall higher than the tweeter or woofer. And be so clean it is a nearly a full range driver, all on it's own.

If it isn't those things, it isn't really a midrange driver.

Then you find yourself with a situation where compromise is in order..and fiddling is the order of the day. And, fiddling with ANY point on a midrange driver's crossover, be it the low pass or high pass section.. WILL make a TOTAL mess of the entire crossover balance you may have previously achieved. 'perfect' Three way passive design execution is for masochists. Messing with the LF cut-off on the midrange will screw up the tweeter integration. Big time. and Vise-Versa.

The best you can do is start with a near perfect midrange in the first place. Let's say the better one costs $30-40 more each, than the less perfect one. SPEND THE MONEY. The easing in crossover execution hassles alone -- will make it very much worth the effort required to stretch to the better midrange driver.
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Old 6th November 2008, 10:18 AM   #17
Andy G is offline Andy G  Australia
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I STILL think that Vifa and Peerless mids are some of the best around...because they can be used with minimalist x-os in the low range of 200-300 and upper range of 2000-4000.

I guess that if others want to BASH some of the cheaper metal cone drivers into submission with LOTSA x-o components, that is their decision!


ooo, flame war coming !!
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Old 6th November 2008, 10:46 AM   #18
cotdt is offline cotdt  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by Andy G
I STILL think that Vifa and Peerless mids are some of the best around...because they can be used with minimalist x-os in the low range of 200-300 and upper range of 2000-4000.

I guess that if others want to BASH some of the cheaper metal cone drivers into submission with LOTSA x-o components, that is their decision!


ooo, flame war coming !!

Agreed that Vifa and Peerless mids are downright amazing, but have you tried the Scanspeak mids? You can use those with neither a high pass nor low pass and they will still sound really good.
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Old 6th November 2008, 01:01 PM   #19
Conrad Hoffman is offline Conrad Hoffman  United States
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Once you accept the fact that bad drivers are a complete waste of your time, you'll realize how many drivers out there have no known purpose... unless the market for buzzers and sirens is larger than I thought
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Old 6th November 2008, 02:17 PM   #20
Trooper46 is offline Trooper46  United States
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doesn't geddes like to cross over in the 800-1000hz range?
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