That's very neat lp's storage Abbiendi. What shelving system do you use? Is it ikea?
i had bms 18n862´s naked ob and it did reasonable loud down to 30hz, it was loud enough for me at least.
Hi Adason,
I designed myself and ask someone to build it for me, as most of the stuff inside this room. Each shelf has an stopper for LP alignment but its back is fully open. The goal was to make it acoustically transparent to allow the acoustics installed in the wall behind (mostly bass traps) to work properly.
BTW, congratulations for your designs, you contributed to my decision of using domes in the midrange section, a pity they are not dipoles . . .
Thank you!!
This helps. I see the bass roll-off will be 18 dB/octave, as 12 dB/octave roll-off from the woofer plus 6 dB/octave from the open baffle. Starting at what frequency?
On Martin King's paper he uses a 20" wide panel and sets the goal function at 90 dB/W/m "tuned to 45Hz".
Attached a quick simulation of Martin's 20x38" baffle with 15" woofer centered at 10" from bottom. I guess baffle step is what he refers to as "6 dB/octave from the open baffle"?
How is he tuning to 45Hz?
Any simulation software/spreadsheets currently being used? The Edge is likely good, but non-intuitive and lacks a help function.
FWIW, my system is active with digital xo and DSP. Rythmik subs in DIY enclosure will cover the bottom. UcD Class D 400W for the woofers, so driver selection not as constrained by matching other drivers sensitivity.
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I need to do something for my LP's as well. They deserve better storage that I have now. Nicely done Abbiendi.
I always recommend domes, they sound good to me. I have systems with dayton soft domes, dayton aluminium domes, vintage Philips domes, and now I got from ebay vintage Infinity domes. Looking forward to measure and listen to them.
Infinity ES 103
That 24" driver is massive! Thank you for putting the couch into the shot for scale. I thought my SI HT18s were big or my cheapie MCM 21" 
How much open baffle is enough?
Recently I was doing my monthly spot check of local shops online, and came across a listing for a pair of Satellite 1B speakers. $185?
Looked at the pictures and it was indeed a pair of M&K S1B speakers, a little older than the ones I wanted but couldn't afford in the mid eighties.
Picked them up, got them home, and tried them with a sealed sub, a ported sub, an open baffle sub, and wound up using them with two push pull U Frames, stacked sideways between them, doing double duty as a tv stand.
These little guys are still amazing, and have me considering putting my 12" full range/1505B walnut horns on the block. These are simply the most seamless speaker array I've had in my living room, homemade, and store bought, since I reached my limit there with a pair of Tannoy D700, decades ago.
I can't figure why a good sealed sub doesn't work best with these, anymore than I can figure out why a dipole sub doesn't work best with my dipole/horn hybrid speakers.
Maybe it's just my horns are too big for my room, but here it seems, open back bass is enough for a great listen.
Had a peek inside, and it's all electrolytic caps!
40 years on, and still sounding great. This really puts the lie to me "knowing" expensive caps are best, and the only way to go.
Ken Kreisel graciously supplied me with a crossover schematic, and advised it may well be time for a recapping. I chose Mundorf E-Caps, for their tight for electrolytics 5% tolerances, and small size. They should be here soon, and I'm eager to hear if newer caps will make a change for the better. Has anyone else here tried sealed speakers with open back bass arrays?
I also went through my amps, and for solid state, they like power, and sounded best with a hundred and fifty watt pro amp.
Which amazingly, doesn't sound as good as with a 300B Yaqin amp, highpassed with an also vintage M&K LP-1S . My unused class D amp provides the best bass blend with the tubes, weirdly. I thought for sure a class a amp would sound best here, as it had in other configurations.
Recently I was doing my monthly spot check of local shops online, and came across a listing for a pair of Satellite 1B speakers. $185?
Looked at the pictures and it was indeed a pair of M&K S1B speakers, a little older than the ones I wanted but couldn't afford in the mid eighties.
Picked them up, got them home, and tried them with a sealed sub, a ported sub, an open baffle sub, and wound up using them with two push pull U Frames, stacked sideways between them, doing double duty as a tv stand.
These little guys are still amazing, and have me considering putting my 12" full range/1505B walnut horns on the block. These are simply the most seamless speaker array I've had in my living room, homemade, and store bought, since I reached my limit there with a pair of Tannoy D700, decades ago.
I can't figure why a good sealed sub doesn't work best with these, anymore than I can figure out why a dipole sub doesn't work best with my dipole/horn hybrid speakers.
Maybe it's just my horns are too big for my room, but here it seems, open back bass is enough for a great listen.
Had a peek inside, and it's all electrolytic caps!
40 years on, and still sounding great. This really puts the lie to me "knowing" expensive caps are best, and the only way to go.
Ken Kreisel graciously supplied me with a crossover schematic, and advised it may well be time for a recapping. I chose Mundorf E-Caps, for their tight for electrolytics 5% tolerances, and small size. They should be here soon, and I'm eager to hear if newer caps will make a change for the better. Has anyone else here tried sealed speakers with open back bass arrays?
I also went through my amps, and for solid state, they like power, and sounded best with a hundred and fifty watt pro amp.
Which amazingly, doesn't sound as good as with a 300B Yaqin amp, highpassed with an also vintage M&K LP-1S . My unused class D amp provides the best bass blend with the tubes, weirdly. I thought for sure a class a amp would sound best here, as it had in other configurations.
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I am a believer now.
Wow. I slapped together a couple OBs with vintage ADS woofers I’ve had laying around for nearly 20 years plus some Tang Band w3-881si as mid-tweets. They are only wired in parallel. No filter. On foam core. I now get the OB fascination.
This is mesmerizing. I can’t get over how real vocals and guitars sound. They were a little shriekish at first, and I wasn’t surprised. But after only 30 minutes of breaking in, the balance is shockingly better. Bass is not deep, but it’s not terribly lacking.
I’m going to cobble together some simple filters with spare parts I have lying around. Will even wind my own coils. I love this crazy hobby.
Wow. I slapped together a couple OBs with vintage ADS woofers I’ve had laying around for nearly 20 years plus some Tang Band w3-881si as mid-tweets. They are only wired in parallel. No filter. On foam core. I now get the OB fascination.
This is mesmerizing. I can’t get over how real vocals and guitars sound. They were a little shriekish at first, and I wasn’t surprised. But after only 30 minutes of breaking in, the balance is shockingly better. Bass is not deep, but it’s not terribly lacking.
I’m going to cobble together some simple filters with spare parts I have lying around. Will even wind my own coils. I love this crazy hobby.
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ears adapts quite fast, even bad speakers if you just keep on going.
Thats why i listen my fullranges, earphones and visit with friends setup so main project does not go bad.
That larger woofer looks like braun, does it have really soft suspension? picture from rear side?
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Its surprising how little deep bass reproduction can be so satisfying, when what there is of it sounds so good.
My first OB was some 6.5" Dynavox and a Tang Band pair of ceramic tweeters. Tweeter only had a one cap filter on it, and I was hooked.
Get ready to hear clear harmonics and structure in music.
If I remember correctly, early ADS developed from Braun, so you may be correct, maninen. The suspension is quite soft. They are labeled 206-0324 and are 4-ohm.
I am definitely hearing some amazing things, MITsound. Some songs are just spooky good. Others sound rather bad. I’ll probably be tweaking with crossover parts for a long time.
I am definitely hearing some amazing things, MITsound. Some songs are just spooky good. Others sound rather bad. I’ll probably be tweaking with crossover parts for a long time.
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ADS produced my favorite production speakers I've owned. I've owned a pair L1290s (my favorite ADS ever!) and a couple of pairs of L1590/2s. I was most impressed by the clean, accurate and balanced sound, my first experience of speakers that didn't sound like boxes. The cabinets were made in Germany and of the highest quality. The early models did have Braun drivers but IIRC they soon began manufacturing their own drivers. They were expensive in the early 1980s when I bought my 1290s, but well worth it!
It looks like you have woofers from the L810 or L710. I'm glad they provide satisfying sound in your OBs!
It looks like you have woofers from the L810 or L710. I'm glad they provide satisfying sound in your OBs!
