I don't have 18LX60 but have experience with another 18-inch unit 18G40, SM118/N and 18P80/Nd in open baffle operation. They sound excellent though my experience with a DIY speaker is only open baffle. I love their natural sound probably brought by no enclosure(woofer cone doesn't have air pressure). My open baffle isn't inside my listening room but at the border between the next room. This setup forces you to be a carpenter rather than an engineer. But you have the advantage of full usage of potential bass. It's not for a commercial product but for DIY use only because you need to sell both an open baffle and a house.
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I don't have 18LX60 but have experience with another 18-inch unit 18G40, SM118/N and 18P80/Nd in open baffle operation. They sound excellent though my experience with a DIY speaker is only open baffle. I love their natural sound probably brought by no enclosure(woofer cone doesn't have air pressure). My open baffle isn't inside my listening room but at the border between the next room. This setup forces you to be a carpenter rather than an engineer. But you have the advantage of full usage of potential bass. It's not for a commercial product but for DIY use only because you need to sell both an open baffle and a house.
But where do You sit when listening?
But where do You sit when listening?
Hi,
In a 50 m2 room. (With many carpets
..). I think that's ok for OB listening. Have the opportunity to move around the OB speakers. Thanks.18 LX 60 V2
Hi Esteban!
Thanks a lot for your replay. Could you send a pair of photos, please? r
Best regards,
Hi Esteban!
Thanks a lot for your replay. Could you send a pair of photos, please? r
Best regards,
But where do You sit when listening?
No problem.
My attached pic at #2625 was taken from my listening position, where it isn't the ground floor but the 2nd because the 2nd floor is far better sound. An open baffle hangs from a beam between my listening room(the front side) and a living room(the back side).
Spider Selection for OB Woofer Modification-rebuild?
Hello...
Given the immense amount of knowledge and experience I've seen in this thread, I think here is the best place to ask.
In preparation for an upcoming OB project, I have a pair of 15" woofers that had trashed cones/coils when I acquired them, but are cosmetically pristine and have Huge alnico magnets and cast baskets...
They were not originally intended for OB use, and were of limited excursion capability.
It's not desirable to rebuild them to original specs...
Indeed replacement parts of that type are harder to get now, than more contemporary stuff anyway...
So, it's desirable to rebuild them in a way that will make them better suited for OB.
The main question I have at this juncture is:
What degree of stiffness/compliance is desirable in replacement spiders, to make them suitable for OB... and why?
My understanding is that spiders are graded for stiffness alphabetically... from A to... not sure but I think F.
The original spiders are C rated.
I can go with the original C stiffness/compliance, or certainly at least one step in either direction... IE: B or D.. Perhaps even more choices but I haven't confirmed that so far.
No point in doing that till I know what and why..
I have purposely not mentioned exactly which vintage woofers these are, so as to not prejudice any potential replies for the time being..
I can and will if anyone thinks it matters....
I already have slightly heavier cones with a high-compliant rubber half-roll surround.
I'm not of the extremely high Q camp, as I prefer very detailed/articulate non "one note" bass.
I'll gladly trade off some db for that...
I should also mention, that I'm not after massive bass output that could compete with box-speaker bass..... since I now live in a small apartment where bass travels easily and neighbors complain.
Really, I just want to fill in below the LF cutoff of the "full-range" (wide-range/midrange) 8-incher (~75-100hz)
TIA!!!
Greg
Hello...
Given the immense amount of knowledge and experience I've seen in this thread, I think here is the best place to ask.
In preparation for an upcoming OB project, I have a pair of 15" woofers that had trashed cones/coils when I acquired them, but are cosmetically pristine and have Huge alnico magnets and cast baskets...
They were not originally intended for OB use, and were of limited excursion capability.
It's not desirable to rebuild them to original specs...
Indeed replacement parts of that type are harder to get now, than more contemporary stuff anyway...
So, it's desirable to rebuild them in a way that will make them better suited for OB.
The main question I have at this juncture is:
What degree of stiffness/compliance is desirable in replacement spiders, to make them suitable for OB... and why?
My understanding is that spiders are graded for stiffness alphabetically... from A to... not sure but I think F.
The original spiders are C rated.
I can go with the original C stiffness/compliance, or certainly at least one step in either direction... IE: B or D.. Perhaps even more choices but I haven't confirmed that so far.
No point in doing that till I know what and why..
I have purposely not mentioned exactly which vintage woofers these are, so as to not prejudice any potential replies for the time being..
I can and will if anyone thinks it matters....
I already have slightly heavier cones with a high-compliant rubber half-roll surround.
I'm not of the extremely high Q camp, as I prefer very detailed/articulate non "one note" bass.
I'll gladly trade off some db for that...
I should also mention, that I'm not after massive bass output that could compete with box-speaker bass..... since I now live in a small apartment where bass travels easily and neighbors complain.
Really, I just want to fill in below the LF cutoff of the "full-range" (wide-range/midrange) 8-incher (~75-100hz)
TIA!!!
Greg
This slot loaded open bass (right side on the picture) works very well in the range 30-200 hz. GPA 414 alnico.
This slot loaded open bass (right side on the picture) works very well in the range 30-200 hz. GPA 414 alnico.
nice pair of speaker . I slot loaded my 12 inch woofer for small open baffle too.
Oh, heil no!
Interesting choice of woofers. I always liked the aluminum dust cones in my (ported) JBL woofers. I think it adds a little distortion and a little more detail than typical JBL 2225H.
I think metal woofers and mids play cleaner, below their resonances/ breakups than paper or plastic.
My 2" Dayton domes play very cleanly from about 600hz to 4000 Hz, really revealing what was upstream of them, while a similarly flat responsed Alpair 12P kind of prettifies everything.
But any makeup is a mask of sorts.
I don't have 18LX60 but have experience with another 18-inch unit 18G40, SM118/N and 18P80/Nd in open baffle operation. They sound excellent though my experience with a DIY speaker is only open baffle. I love their natural sound probably brought by no enclosure(woofer cone doesn't have air pressure). My open baffle isn't inside my listening room but at the border between the next room. This setup forces you to be a carpenter rather than an engineer. But you have the advantage of full usage of potential bass. It's not for a commercial product but for DIY use only because you need to sell both an open baffle and a house.
And no floor bounce
//
I don't have 18LX60 but have experience with another 18-inch unit 18G40, SM118/N and 18P80/Nd in open baffle operation. They sound excellent though my experience with a DIY speaker is only open baffle. I love their natural sound probably brought by no enclosure(woofer cone doesn't have air pressure). My open baffle isn't inside my listening room but at the border between the next room. This setup forces you to be a carpenter rather than an engineer. But you have the advantage of full usage of potential bass. It's not for a commercial product but for DIY use only because you need to sell both an open baffle and a house.
Isn't this rather IB than OB?