Baffle dimension is very important factor when designing and evaluating open baffle speakers. A semi-open box like NOLA uses is weird and the N frame in the previous post works right only below 1000Hz - and are very prone to resonances.
Soundwave length variation in music is the problem here, soundwave bending and summation must be undestood well. That is why best results come from 3-4 way speakers with variable baffle width/dimensions. A narrow open line needs a different solution for mid- bass below say 300Hz.
Good reading here
Electro-acoustic models
Tech
Dipolplus - Alles über offene Schallwände
Soundwave length variation in music is the problem here, soundwave bending and summation must be undestood well. That is why best results come from 3-4 way speakers with variable baffle width/dimensions. A narrow open line needs a different solution for mid- bass below say 300Hz.
Good reading here
Electro-acoustic models
Tech
Dipolplus - Alles über offene Schallwände
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Sort of winging the baffle size for this.
Tested the concept with a 16x48" baffle, with the midranges and tweeters just screwed to the side of the try baffle.
Still awaiting delivery on a second pair of Neo 10 Bohlender Graebeners.
Still awaiting delivery of 4 Celestions 1525e-4, 15 " woofers.
Made two of these tonight, but I'm too lazy to cut out the tweeter holes.
The plan is, a Neo 8 ( I think mine are PDRs) splitting treble with a Neo 3PDR, 1 slope passive at 6000 Hz, actively crossed 4 slope to two BG Neo 10s, at 2500hz, actively crossed to the woofers, also 4 slope, at 175hz.
The two tweeters will share an amp channel, as will the two midranges, and will be vertically biamped with some nice little class a amps, 15 watts into 4 ohm loads.
The mixing of a total of two 4 ohm bass drivers, and one 8 ohm bass driver per channel allow for a few wiring and amping options, but I will start with them as a 4 ohm load, and a stereo Behringer A500 I've had around for a while.
This started out as a smaller alternative to my home made Onkens, with 511B and B+C horns.
Now they'll be a couple inches wider, and taller, at 24.5" wide, and 60" tall.
I'm hoping these will match the Onkens for dynamics, be a little smoother, and have better bass, that's less intrusive on my apartment neighbours.
Sort of winging the baffle size for this.
Tested the concept with a 16x48" baffle, with the midranges and tweeters just screwed to the side of the try baffle.
Still awaiting delivery on a second pair of Neo 10 Bohlender Graebeners.
Still awaiting delivery of 4 Celestions 1525e-4, 15 " woofers.
Made two of these tonight, but I'm too lazy to cut out the tweeter holes.
The plan is, a Neo 8 ( I think mine are PDRs) splitting treble with a Neo 3PDR, 1 slope passive at 6000 Hz, actively crossed 4 slope to two BG Neo 10s, at 2500hz, actively crossed to the woofers, also 4 slope, at 175hz.
The two tweeters will share an amp channel, as will the two midranges, and will be vertically biamped with some nice little class a amps, 15 watts into 4 ohm loads.
The mixing of a total of two 4 ohm bass drivers, and one 8 ohm bass driver per channel allow for a few wiring and amping options, but I will start with them as a 4 ohm load, and a stereo Behringer A500 I've had around for a while.
This started out as a smaller alternative to my home made Onkens, with 511B and B+C horns.
Now they'll be a couple inches wider, and taller, at 24.5" wide, and 60" tall.
I'm hoping these will match the Onkens for dynamics, be a little smoother, and have better bass, that's less intrusive on my apartment neighbours.
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Form follows function.
Has anyone tried a satin or semigloss latex paint on their projects?
I plan to paint my baffles à la Eddie Van Halen's guitar scheme, red field, black and white stripes.
I ask, because I'm hoping some car wax and a buffing pad will shine things up, without me needing to outsource the painting to a shop.
Did a test, and it works fine. Not able to set up a spray booth in my apartment, and every polyurethane finish winds up with dust particles in it. This way, an inexpensive cut polish leaves a very good surface.
That looks like a very nice bedroom loudspeaker. Can you share some more of the design, drivers used, crossover, that kind of stuff. I see you us your own planars. I have some spare AMT’s waiting to be used.
Absolutely.
Plus, I didn't want another veneer struggle.
I can change this out, easily.
Apple's or oranges?
Nice job on the crossover. I've abandoned passive crossovers, as I need to adjust crossover points on the fly. The character of a driver may change, depending on where it's crossed, and I lack the skill to judge this from specs or modeling. I wish I have that talent: a passive crossover has a lower parts count to push a signal through, than active ones, and a lower amp count!
Just got my first electrical bill, after running 3 little Class A 10 watt amps, and an A/B one for a sub. Along with a note stating I've used 47% more electricity than the previous billing cycle.
Nice job on the crossover. I've abandoned passive crossovers, as I need to adjust crossover points on the fly. The character of a driver may change, depending on where it's crossed, and I lack the skill to judge this from specs or modeling. I wish I have that talent: a passive crossover has a lower parts count to push a signal through, than active ones, and a lower amp count!
Just got my first electrical bill, after running 3 little Class A 10 watt amps, and an A/B one for a sub. Along with a note stating I've used 47% more electricity than the previous billing cycle.