Hi
Just an experimental ob design, bought 12 (cheap) midwoofers, had a pair of B&G Neo 8 S lying around, wanted an array, but as small as possible,
made this, combined with 2 Disubs, more or less copies of Linkwitz W subwoofers, used Thelaudio analog active x-overs, my Yamaha amp, only used as preamp, slight corrections made with DSP in amp, poweramps used are Marantz MM7025 and MM7055, rebuild, were broken, made a measurement, taken on listening position, just to see if it looked ok, I liked the sound, will use them a while....
Just an experimental ob design, bought 12 (cheap) midwoofers, had a pair of B&G Neo 8 S lying around, wanted an array, but as small as possible,
made this, combined with 2 Disubs, more or less copies of Linkwitz W subwoofers, used Thelaudio analog active x-overs, my Yamaha amp, only used as preamp, slight corrections made with DSP in amp, poweramps used are Marantz MM7025 and MM7055, rebuild, were broken, made a measurement, taken on listening position, just to see if it looked ok, I liked the sound, will use them a while....
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Here are mine. They are not 100% done. I will install a dedicated tweeter and a Karlsson resonator in the rear. Maybe this year?
Thay are drawn by a friend of mine and made at a local furniture carpenter. Ash veneer.
Horn is a Tad Th 4001 clone horn with Radian 950 be driver. Amp is a Valvet E2.
2x JBL 2226 and 2x 18Sound 12MB1000 drivers in SLOB. Amp is Simaudio Moon W5.
They are driven active with Fabfilter Pro and a Motu Ultralight mk5 As as a two way system. Crossover is 1000Hz. They are flat from 25Hz in my room.
Thay are drawn by a friend of mine and made at a local furniture carpenter. Ash veneer.
Horn is a Tad Th 4001 clone horn with Radian 950 be driver. Amp is a Valvet E2.
2x JBL 2226 and 2x 18Sound 12MB1000 drivers in SLOB. Amp is Simaudio Moon W5.
They are driven active with Fabfilter Pro and a Motu Ultralight mk5 As as a two way system. Crossover is 1000Hz. They are flat from 25Hz in my room.
Like what you did there with the passive .5 coils for the JBL woofers.
I suppose I must have misunderstood the function of the slot as a mechanical low pass filter though…….I would have thought the 18 sound mids would have a significant cutoff starting at 280hz or so if you consider the 1/4 wave of a 12” deep slot while the rear response would continue up to the electrical filter at 1k?
I suppose I must have misunderstood the function of the slot as a mechanical low pass filter though…….I would have thought the 18 sound mids would have a significant cutoff starting at 280hz or so if you consider the 1/4 wave of a 12” deep slot while the rear response would continue up to the electrical filter at 1k?
I took apart an unused OB dual woofer speaker for a differential channel, and will be using them in two separate speakers. I noticed I hadn't used any sort of gasket with these years ago, and must have tightened their fastening screws gingerly.
Does anyone use these hollow-style framed woofers, and if so, what was their solution?
This time I'm thinking of packing them (Seas woofers, or maybe Peerless?) with some Blu Tac to stiffen up the thin stamped metal.
Thanks.
Does anyone use these hollow-style framed woofers, and if so, what was their solution?
This time I'm thinking of packing them (Seas woofers, or maybe Peerless?) with some Blu Tac to stiffen up the thin stamped metal.
Thanks.
Backside has more open radiating area, which means speaker is louder on back and has somehow asymmetric radiation pattern.
Have you done outdoor measurements? How about step response on-axis?
Couldn't you swap the 12in backward making the slot play to the rear and the exposed part Forward wouldn't it play better that way
T
Why would it play better?
The speaker have already been made. I will not change the design. The dimensions look good and I have the system in my living room. I do not want an ugly speaker with exposed parts and cables. It may be OK for you, but not for me.
They will get a box on top with a TAD ET703 tweeter with a passive filter to the midrange. We are working on a simple, but nice design.
Why would it play better?
The speaker have already been made. I will not change the design. The dimensions look good and I have the system in my living room. I do not want an ugly speaker with exposed parts and cables. It may be OK for you, but not for me.
They will get a box on top with a TAD ET703 tweeter with a passive filter to the midrange. We are working on a simple, but nice design.
Sorry I figured I give a idea because I know ripole don't play that high and you could have made a wood frame wrap in grille cloth to hide those wired but I did somewhat of what you did and had a problem with having the crossover at 1000 hz but sorry for intruding about your design but you should read up on how high ripoles can't play to high but if you like how it sounds is up to you because your probably listening to the rear reflection of the exposed 12in and 15in almost like a rear mounted tweeter that most diyers use in open baffle speakers but yours play higher and lower but it's just my opinion so I'll just keep stuff to myself was just trying to help
Here is a explanation on ripole with the explanation on slot depth and how high you can crossover them in relation to peaks and distortion it's a good read you will learn alot and can ask questions that will be answered https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/the-xsd-speaker.385717/ give it a try if you can
The not too shabby speakers are Martin Logan Monoliths. Here's another nice story. I recently had my son over to listen to these speakers for the first time. He immediately gravitated to the Lord of the Rings soundtrack. He grew up listening to it on the Martin Logan Monoliths. The Bitches Brew speakers blew the Monoliths away with their clarity. We heard counter melody lines we'd never heard before.