Are you hoping they will outshine the elephant in the room behind it???
I do like it, but it's a step sideways, not up or down.
Playing with some really inexpensive faux black marble self adhesive sheets now. This one's almost ready for some wood trim.
Attachments
The 15" is called indeed a full range, but it starts dropping at about 8kHz. It is crossed at 350Hz.
It was the highest Qts woofer I could get (0.8).
I had thought about doing a surgery to remove the whizzer on the big woofer, but I do like the visual of the two drivers having whizzers, although not contributing anything other than cosmetics with the big one.
It was the highest Qts woofer I could get (0.8).
I had thought about doing a surgery to remove the whizzer on the big woofer, but I do like the visual of the two drivers having whizzers, although not contributing anything other than cosmetics with the big one.
Low x Max, high quality
Over the years, I find I prefer big, low excursion woofers for bass. No matter how many it takes, lol.
My favourites for the past several years are the high efficiency Celestion 1525e woofers.
Only a linear xmax of 3.5 mm, but 4 of them clumped together are fine, down to a surprising 40 hertz, with barely any EQ.
Someone cancelled out an order, leaving me holding half the bag on four Dayton sub drivers.
Time for my every second year effort to get good bass from smaller, high x max woofers in open baffle, or possibly a U Frame.
I'm also pretty convinced the best set up for my room is open back satellites, with U Frame bass coming from a centred position between the satellites, and slightly further from me than them.
Over the years, I find I prefer big, low excursion woofers for bass. No matter how many it takes, lol.
My favourites for the past several years are the high efficiency Celestion 1525e woofers.
Only a linear xmax of 3.5 mm, but 4 of them clumped together are fine, down to a surprising 40 hertz, with barely any EQ.
Someone cancelled out an order, leaving me holding half the bag on four Dayton sub drivers.
Time for my every second year effort to get good bass from smaller, high x max woofers in open baffle, or possibly a U Frame.
I'm also pretty convinced the best set up for my room is open back satellites, with U Frame bass coming from a centred position between the satellites, and slightly further from me than them.
True that I can't push them much lower than 50Hz without running into trouble.
But 50Hz, meant for music listening, and not home theatre duty, is fine for most of my listening.
And I have a couple of subs in the room if I need extra oomph down below.
Xmax
With large surface bass (18") I can't see any movement in the bass driver. At reasonable home listening level, you touch them to feel they are vibrating. There is very little actual travel. True, with passive crossover they roll off below 60 but play down below 40. Sound full and natural. You miss the lower octaves on the organ, but for most music its pretty good.
With large surface bass (18") I can't see any movement in the bass driver. At reasonable home listening level, you touch them to feel they are vibrating. There is very little actual travel. True, with passive crossover they roll off below 60 but play down below 40. Sound full and natural. You miss the lower octaves on the organ, but for most music its pretty good.
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H-Frame Subs.
H-Frame 750mm cross section, 700mm dipole separation. Perimeter is MDF 25mm, center panel is MDF 30mm. Center panel joined and glued 10mm inside full perimeter then screwed. CNC'd inner metal T-Frame structure sandwiched to bottom and center panel MDF with M10 & M12 bolts using special wide washers and locking nuts. Bottom is 10mm 5083 alum., vertical panel is 1/2" steel. MDF and metals decoupled with teflon coated films. Two modules ready, another two assembling now, will be installed right behind the sofa in very near field. Driver used is 24" Stereo Integrity SH-24.
Still working in the connectors and other details.
The works of Linkwitz, Kreskovsky and this great thread helped me a lot.
Regards.
C.A.
H-Frame 750mm cross section, 700mm dipole separation. Perimeter is MDF 25mm, center panel is MDF 30mm. Center panel joined and glued 10mm inside full perimeter then screwed. CNC'd inner metal T-Frame structure sandwiched to bottom and center panel MDF with M10 & M12 bolts using special wide washers and locking nuts. Bottom is 10mm 5083 alum., vertical panel is 1/2" steel. MDF and metals decoupled with teflon coated films. Two modules ready, another two assembling now, will be installed right behind the sofa in very near field. Driver used is 24" Stereo Integrity SH-24.
Still working in the connectors and other details.
The works of Linkwitz, Kreskovsky and this great thread helped me a lot.
Regards.
C.A.
Attachments
Thx
The cows are also DIY ... by my wife
KUNSTTRYKK TIL SALGS: – Side 2 – NamoArt (by Mona Lian)
NamoArt (by Mona Lian)
The cows are also DIY ... by my wife
KUNSTTRYKK TIL SALGS: – Side 2 – NamoArt (by Mona Lian)
NamoArt (by Mona Lian)
Continuing my learning curve: Assuming one has sealed subs to cover the bottom, what makes a good OB bass driver? Any 10 or 12" pro drivers that are generally regarded as good?
Searching this thread I found references to Faital 15PR400, Eminence Alpha15, a lonely reference to Beyma SM112N. Not much considering the 3118 posts in this thread, so I'm wondering what makes a for a good OB bass driver.
I have Beyma 10G40 and wondering if testing them is even worth it, or should explore new drivers.
Thank you!
Searching this thread I found references to Faital 15PR400, Eminence Alpha15, a lonely reference to Beyma SM112N. Not much considering the 3118 posts in this thread, so I'm wondering what makes a for a good OB bass driver.
I have Beyma 10G40 and wondering if testing them is even worth it, or should explore new drivers.
Thank you!