My First Open Baffle (and hopefully last)
My take on the Lampizator P17 Endorphin project.
Main driver is a 10" Coral vintage alnico coax. It is crossed over at 120Hz with a first order using Solen and Blackgate F caps.
Bass augmentation is from a 18" Peavey Blackwidow. First order crossover using Solen inductor.
Unlike Fikus Electric, I gave each driver their own front baffle. This allows for a 21" wide on the bass box vs a 12" baffle on the full range. It also allows placement of the drivers to time align the drivers to the listener.
Front baffle is 1.5" walnut butcher block finished with 5 applications of Tung oil.
Bass box is 1" thick made from Russian birch ply bonded to MDF. Finished speakers very heavy. They are fitted with 3" castor wheels to lift them off the ground and allow easy placement.
I am sure these are not the 'ultimate' OB, but they sound great to me. They are very open and capture a lot of micro detail. Lots of authority with easy clean mid bass and bass. They are flat from 45. There is music playing from about 35 but pretty attenuated. So they are not shaking the room with 20Hz organ notes, but they work very well on my favorite jazz, classical, folk and opera.
Thanks to all who have posted here and got me interested in OB.
My take on the Lampizator P17 Endorphin project.
Main driver is a 10" Coral vintage alnico coax. It is crossed over at 120Hz with a first order using Solen and Blackgate F caps.
Bass augmentation is from a 18" Peavey Blackwidow. First order crossover using Solen inductor.
Unlike Fikus Electric, I gave each driver their own front baffle. This allows for a 21" wide on the bass box vs a 12" baffle on the full range. It also allows placement of the drivers to time align the drivers to the listener.
Front baffle is 1.5" walnut butcher block finished with 5 applications of Tung oil.
Bass box is 1" thick made from Russian birch ply bonded to MDF. Finished speakers very heavy. They are fitted with 3" castor wheels to lift them off the ground and allow easy placement.
I am sure these are not the 'ultimate' OB, but they sound great to me. They are very open and capture a lot of micro detail. Lots of authority with easy clean mid bass and bass. They are flat from 45. There is music playing from about 35 but pretty attenuated. So they are not shaking the room with 20Hz organ notes, but they work very well on my favorite jazz, classical, folk and opera.
Thanks to all who have posted here and got me interested in OB.
Attachments
Last edited:
I recently did a variation on the Liionidas Open Baffle.
Using the Lii Audio Fast 8 in the top board.
It will give you 95+ % of the Liionidas with Crystal 10.
The Fast 8 is an amazing FR unit for sure.
So if I do the math right :
When diy you get 95+ for 50 % of the cost of the Liionidas with C 10 !!
I had 4 listeners up til now (corona).
Some started ordering parts on their smartphone after 2 or 3 tracks.
So , yes , it's very good for the price you pay.
Using the Lii Audio Fast 8 in the top board.
It will give you 95+ % of the Liionidas with Crystal 10.
The Fast 8 is an amazing FR unit for sure.
So if I do the math right :
When diy you get 95+ for 50 % of the cost of the Liionidas with C 10 !!
I had 4 listeners up til now (corona).
Some started ordering parts on their smartphone after 2 or 3 tracks.
So , yes , it's very good for the price you pay.
Attachments
Tacky?
So I've gotten both sets of drivers in their U Frames, and guess I'll get used to the magnet up front.
Does anyone brace their woofer magnets?
thinking a 2x4 lateral brace would lower panel resonance, and it could be almost up against the magnet motor, with a little blutak between it and the metal, as a brace and shock absorber.
My baffle is barely as wide as necessary, plus it's not a flat one, so it's fairly rigid.
Anyone think it's helpful, or irrelevant to brace it?
So I've gotten both sets of drivers in their U Frames, and guess I'll get used to the magnet up front.
Does anyone brace their woofer magnets?
thinking a 2x4 lateral brace would lower panel resonance, and it could be almost up against the magnet motor, with a little blutak between it and the metal, as a brace and shock absorber.
My baffle is barely as wide as necessary, plus it's not a flat one, so it's fairly rigid.
Anyone think it's helpful, or irrelevant to brace it?
Attachments
A work in progress - three EV SP12B (two will be crossed over at around 150Hz, one run full range) plus two Seas 1.5’’ fabric tweeters, two Sansui 1’’ aluminum tweeters and one 2’’ Aiwa fabric tweeter. A way to make use of things collected over the years 
Attachments
Last edited:
Engaged
It's an ugly duckling, but man, it sounds good!
That's a push pull 12PW U Frame parked on the Celestion U Frame.
This array seems oblivious to volume levels; it seems easy to hear everything at whisper quiet levels, and doesn't get strident at high levels.
Power to burn, with just a Behringer A500 on the four woofers, the meters barely light up at overly loud King Ghidorah vs Gojira loud levels.
My best use of spare parts yet.
Actively crossed 4th order at 90 hertz, so 15 watts Class A is plenty for the Alpairs.
They're down 3 db at 15000 hertz, but sound more natural to me, than a pair of 12P in the same frames.
It's an ugly duckling, but man, it sounds good!
That's a push pull 12PW U Frame parked on the Celestion U Frame.
This array seems oblivious to volume levels; it seems easy to hear everything at whisper quiet levels, and doesn't get strident at high levels.
Power to burn, with just a Behringer A500 on the four woofers, the meters barely light up at overly loud King Ghidorah vs Gojira loud levels.
My best use of spare parts yet.
Actively crossed 4th order at 90 hertz, so 15 watts Class A is plenty for the Alpairs.
They're down 3 db at 15000 hertz, but sound more natural to me, than a pair of 12P in the same frames.
Attachments
There should be almost none. It's crossed over actively, 4th order at 175 hertz, but it may filter out lower, as I experiment.
I most definitely have been thinking about my boss's in the mid 1990's Miller Kreisel S1C and MX-2000 satellite subwoofer combo, which I loved but couldn't afford.
I think these are more coherent, and need no subwoofer.
Pretty sure my amps are better than his Nikko from that time, too.
Last edited:
...let's call them the COVID-19's.....
What I did while under lockdown.....
2 FaitalPro 16 ohm 6FE200's and a Fountek Neo CD 3.0.
Using a miniDSP crossover at 4000hz 4th order.....
Wood is Padauk finished with exterior spar varnish..the rest is perforated aluminum sheet.
the Baltic Birch prototypes are also shown.......haven't figured out what I want to do with the bases..so they are presently unfinished Baltic birch.
What I did while under lockdown.....
2 FaitalPro 16 ohm 6FE200's and a Fountek Neo CD 3.0.
Using a miniDSP crossover at 4000hz 4th order.....
Wood is Padauk finished with exterior spar varnish..the rest is perforated aluminum sheet.
the Baltic Birch prototypes are also shown.......haven't figured out what I want to do with the bases..so they are presently unfinished Baltic birch.
Attachments
Last edited:
This is my newest project, will be paired with a FaitalPro 15PR400. I have used this bass driver in some different designs and liked the baffleless sound most.
The tangband w8-1808 is absolutely stunning in this configuration, as far as I can tell with the bass speaker missing ofcoure. See attached render for final design.
Will build a pair of subs (sealed I guess) for the lowest notes.
The "baffle" is 10mm thick steel plate laser cutted and really stiff!
The tangband w8-1808 is absolutely stunning in this configuration, as far as I can tell with the bass speaker missing ofcoure. See attached render for final design.
Will build a pair of subs (sealed I guess) for the lowest notes.
The "baffle" is 10mm thick steel plate laser cutted and really stiff!
