Oliver, just to clarify, the key was to "hollow out" the baffle on the backside of the tweeter?
Thanks, Oliver. I just reviewed your post history and saw the bowl-shaped recess you used in January (post 1927) compared to the broad, flat recess you showed in your more recent baffle. I'm going to pickup a router today to start working on my baffles, so it's good to know the impact of the different geometries.
Dear All,
I wanto to build a Manyanita Ultra, I did found on this page in several pleaces list of material including vifa and GRS woofer, but I cant find speaker dimensions.
It is somewhere about 1200x600 mm, but U frame and all other should be respected.
I will try in design software to increase the width, because I have space in room.I thing that John Busch said width of bafle and U frame depth could be even more...
But please, if you can put dimension of the speaker so that I can start...
I wanto to build a Manyanita Ultra, I did found on this page in several pleaces list of material including vifa and GRS woofer, but I cant find speaker dimensions.
It is somewhere about 1200x600 mm, but U frame and all other should be respected.
I will try in design software to increase the width, because I have space in room.I thing that John Busch said width of bafle and U frame depth could be even more...
But please, if you can put dimension of the speaker so that I can start...
This is how I would like to build Ultra.
I thought (for better transparancy) that side panels goes in height only in woofer height
Further more, because of added thickness of baffle 1,4", hole on the rear side of Vifa driver would be open according to the picture.
All other dimensions and parametars of XO would be respected.
What do you thing?
I thought (for better transparancy) that side panels goes in height only in woofer height
Further more, because of added thickness of baffle 1,4", hole on the rear side of Vifa driver would be open according to the picture.
All other dimensions and parametars of XO would be respected.
What do you thing?
Attachments
I have no problems with raw material expenses, I could also make front baffle wider or (and) side wigs deeper, although as I read here that SPL and FS are all depending and in corelation with this dimensions.
So, if you have any ideas about this approach, please, waiting for your response.
I can make a baffle whatever the size and dimension (regardind the project Ultra evolving by the time). I could try in Bast or Edge simulation and changing baffle sizes, speaker displacement and XO, but as I read here in all this posts, people here are so far ahead so far, and I just want to make best possible sound out of those drivers: Vifa TC9FD18-08 and Grs 15pf-8, Thank you in advance.
So, if you have any ideas about this approach, please, waiting for your response.
I can make a baffle whatever the size and dimension (regardind the project Ultra evolving by the time). I could try in Bast or Edge simulation and changing baffle sizes, speaker displacement and XO, but as I read here in all this posts, people here are so far ahead so far, and I just want to make best possible sound out of those drivers: Vifa TC9FD18-08 and Grs 15pf-8, Thank you in advance.
Ultra thoughts
Leooki.... Your proposed build - drawing look good. Yes, you can taper or truncate the rear wings above the GRS if you wish. The straight wings were a way to keep the original build as simple as possible. The Ultra baffle is wide enough to load the GRS down into the upper 30's and the Vifa down to its crossover based cut off. The wings on the wide baffle are shallow enough that cavity resonances are not a problem. Part of the wing requirement was structural. Again, keeping the build simple and sturdy. Look forward to hearing more about your build and results. Best J
Leooki.... Your proposed build - drawing look good. Yes, you can taper or truncate the rear wings above the GRS if you wish. The straight wings were a way to keep the original build as simple as possible. The Ultra baffle is wide enough to load the GRS down into the upper 30's and the Vifa down to its crossover based cut off. The wings on the wide baffle are shallow enough that cavity resonances are not a problem. Part of the wing requirement was structural. Again, keeping the build simple and sturdy. Look forward to hearing more about your build and results. Best J
Does anyone know of a pre-assembled crossover I can buy for this? Parts-express has pre-assembled crossovers but I don't understand what specs I need from looking at the schematics in the the op. If not, then I'd be willing to buy a soldering station. Or a minidsp but then I would need the crossover specs etc. please. I'm a noob and this would be my first diy speaker and first time soldering. Also, I don't want deep bass because I'm in a townhouse, so that means reducing the baffle, yes? Thank you!
Hello Philimon... The Manzanita and Manzanita Ultra require very unique crossovers as they are Open baffle designs...
So, the likelihood of an off the shelf crossover is very low.
Set crossover designs are not appropriate for the Manzanita, or for that mater most Open Baffle / Cardiode designs.
You can build the Manzanita using basic tools, that is my original intention.
Send me a private message and I will be happy to guide you through a simple build process you can perform with the most basic of tools and skill. Know you will be impressed and happy with the outcome. Best J
So, the likelihood of an off the shelf crossover is very low.
Set crossover designs are not appropriate for the Manzanita, or for that mater most Open Baffle / Cardiode designs.
You can build the Manzanita using basic tools, that is my original intention.
Send me a private message and I will be happy to guide you through a simple build process you can perform with the most basic of tools and skill. Know you will be impressed and happy with the outcome. Best J
Hello John Busch,
That is a generous offer and I would like the extra guidance. I just need to order the materials from parts-express. Finding the drivers is easy. I am doing the 15" version btw since the dayton drivers are cheap. And soldering station, circular drill saw bit kit (?), and with the crossover materials I'm really lost and would appreciate some direct links.
And about rolling off the deep bass. What do you recommend? I don't want to bother my neighbors.
That is a generous offer and I would like the extra guidance. I just need to order the materials from parts-express. Finding the drivers is easy. I am doing the 15" version btw since the dayton drivers are cheap. And soldering station, circular drill saw bit kit (?), and with the crossover materials I'm really lost and would appreciate some direct links.
And about rolling off the deep bass. What do you recommend? I don't want to bother my neighbors.
I was reconsidering going active on this and think I would prefer that because I won't have to worry about soldering and because I can reuse the dsp for future projects. I've used active crossovers before (car audio) and have a minidsp mic.
So what crossover point and slope is recommend? I'll eq or add a band pass from there after measuring.
So what crossover point and slope is recommend? I'll eq or add a band pass from there after measuring.