Heils
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No magic dots
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No magic dots
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Veneer, mortite, a saw blade and felt,,!
Well then, maybe I will be quick enough to be the first post of the new century....
As for EnABLing an AMT, I doubt you would need a pattern for every fold. I think this might make them pretty soggy. I would first put a line of blocks at the joint between the mylar emitter panel and whatever clamps them in place, on the mylar. This being the first place where a lot of reflections will arise. Then treat the rest of the core / mounting mass with a linear pattern for every vertical wall or break over from a local horizontal surface that exceeds 10 degrees or so.
Beyond that, just a set of electron pools and you should be good to go, tune up all done....
Bud
edit, oh well, maybe for the beginning of the third century....
As for EnABLing an AMT, I doubt you would need a pattern for every fold. I think this might make them pretty soggy. I would first put a line of blocks at the joint between the mylar emitter panel and whatever clamps them in place, on the mylar. This being the first place where a lot of reflections will arise. Then treat the rest of the core / mounting mass with a linear pattern for every vertical wall or break over from a local horizontal surface that exceeds 10 degrees or so.
Beyond that, just a set of electron pools and you should be good to go, tune up all done....
Bud
edit, oh well, maybe for the beginning of the third century....
Hey Magnetar!
I've been reading your thread with great interest and looking to do a smaller version of your OB "Creation". Gonna start off with the AMT's 'cause I have 'em in hand - but want to try Freddie's K-tube tricks the way you did on your project. Still trying to figure out a good midrange unit for that important 300-3kHz range - although BudP's EnABL should help WRT that.
Hi Bud - We are in agreement about the folds in the AMT - don't want to touch 'em - for several reasons. I was simply going to slap a dual row EnABL pattern next to the vertical slot near the diaphragm and another set where the "waveguide"(?) begins curving and another on the outside edge of the assembly. As Chris mentioned earlier - there are a couple of key suspects to look at.
I've been reading your thread with great interest and looking to do a smaller version of your OB "Creation". Gonna start off with the AMT's 'cause I have 'em in hand - but want to try Freddie's K-tube tricks the way you did on your project. Still trying to figure out a good midrange unit for that important 300-3kHz range - although BudP's EnABL should help WRT that.
Hi Bud - We are in agreement about the folds in the AMT - don't want to touch 'em - for several reasons. I was simply going to slap a dual row EnABL pattern next to the vertical slot near the diaphragm and another set where the "waveguide"(?) begins curving and another on the outside edge of the assembly. As Chris mentioned earlier - there are a couple of key suspects to look at.
chrisb said:
Sonus Faber Elipsa.
A VERY beautiful loudspeaker... i am very tempted to take a set of Fonkens in once we get them done (still have not yet had EnABLing the cabs hit the top of the queue) in to see which one wins in the midrange stakes (i have the feeling the guys at the Hounds might be a bit miffed)
dave
Attachments
Hi Folks,
I'm going to try and Enabl my fe108es'
Just a couple of questions.... Dave, did you use dammar or puzzle coat on yours?
I could get dammar but not puzzlecoat.
I did however find a water based gloss varnish from the hobby shop that is used over decoupage. Sounds like puzzlekoat but different brand. It's made in Germany. It's runny but thicker and light, milky and see through. I can easily water it down. It seems to flow very nicely onto a piece of paper. It's used like a varnish and of course dries clear. What do you reckon?!
I also got the caligraphy pen and model acrylic.
Thanks!
Stroop
I'm going to try and Enabl my fe108es'
Just a couple of questions.... Dave, did you use dammar or puzzle coat on yours?
I could get dammar but not puzzlecoat.
I did however find a water based gloss varnish from the hobby shop that is used over decoupage. Sounds like puzzlekoat but different brand. It's made in Germany. It's runny but thicker and light, milky and see through. I can easily water it down. It seems to flow very nicely onto a piece of paper. It's used like a varnish and of course dries clear. What do you reckon?!
I also got the caligraphy pen and model acrylic.
Thanks!
Stroop
stroop,
You will also need to obtain the Micro Scale Gloss coat material to go over all of the other materials. Look here to see what it is and how to obtain it. This is actually quite important and should not be substituted with another material.
http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2...de=MI-4&Category_Code=FINPROD&Product_Count=9
Might I suggest that you treat some other speakers before moving on to the 108's? Boom box, auto or computer speakers will provide an easy practice, just to get your skill set up to what will be needed.
Besides, this practice will provide you with amazing sound from places you never expected it.
Bud
You will also need to obtain the Micro Scale Gloss coat material to go over all of the other materials. Look here to see what it is and how to obtain it. This is actually quite important and should not be substituted with another material.
http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2...de=MI-4&Category_Code=FINPROD&Product_Count=9
Might I suggest that you treat some other speakers before moving on to the 108's? Boom box, auto or computer speakers will provide an easy practice, just to get your skill set up to what will be needed.
Besides, this practice will provide you with amazing sound from places you never expected it.
Bud
Thanks Bud!
I don't have anything else to practice on!
So I'll just keep practicing with the calligraphy pen on paper until I feel confident.
The stuff I got was from 'Marabu' it is high gloss and water, light resistant and is extremely durable. Sounds really similar.
I'll try it see! I'll thin it down though.
Adrian
I don't have anything else to practice on!
So I'll just keep practicing with the calligraphy pen on paper until I feel confident.
The stuff I got was from 'Marabu' it is high gloss and water, light resistant and is extremely durable. Sounds really similar.
I'll try it see! I'll thin it down though.
Adrian
stroop said:
My FE108eS mules have seen a lot of abuse. They 1st got C37, then a coat of puzzlecoat because C37 is not as effective on the banana paper. Then the EnABL. When i do it again on the C37 will not be used.
Do go out and but some cheap-*** thrift store speakers for practise. It could well save you feeling you need to get another pair of 108s. Practising on paper is not the same thing. and practise really helps.
Puzzlecoat is a decopage product. You can even use thinned white PVA glue.
The pre-coat of PK does some beneficial things. It kills off most of the banana cone paper self-noise, it provides a more stable surface for the EnABL blocks, and it gives you a margin for recovery when you boo-boo.
dave
check any interest
http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2...de=MI-4&Category_Code=FINPROD&Product_Count=9
I want to get equipped to do this...with the recommended goods...but minimum order quantities and shipping get me down...I wonder if I can share the wealth???
What is the interest in a group buy for a package containing:
Speedball A3, A4, A5 points and holder,
2.5 oz. of microscale gloss
0.5 oz. of Poly Scale Clear (or check out the color options)
http://www.hobbylinc.com/cgi-bin/a3...tp://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/flo/flof404100.htm
Do you want a brush provided? I'll bet you can get one locally...
If enough are interested we'll move this to it's own thread. Savings to the individual will be avoidance of minimum order quantities and allow your choice of shipping...~less than a pound.
http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2...de=MI-4&Category_Code=FINPROD&Product_Count=9
I want to get equipped to do this...with the recommended goods...but minimum order quantities and shipping get me down...I wonder if I can share the wealth???
What is the interest in a group buy for a package containing:
Speedball A3, A4, A5 points and holder,
2.5 oz. of microscale gloss
0.5 oz. of Poly Scale Clear (or check out the color options)
http://www.hobbylinc.com/cgi-bin/a3...tp://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/flo/flof404100.htm
Do you want a brush provided? I'll bet you can get one locally...
If enough are interested we'll move this to it's own thread. Savings to the individual will be avoidance of minimum order quantities and allow your choice of shipping...~less than a pound.
I would be interested in a group buy on this one. I'm thinking about doing my mission 753's with this treatment. 10 drivers are putting me off right enough.
Is it worth a try do you think? Most of the comments I am seeing is full range speakers. |Are cheaper (driver wise) multi driver speakers going to produce an apreciable difference?
On the same subject, the missions use a doped paper cone, what should I be aiming to do treatment wise?
Blair
Is it worth a try do you think? Most of the comments I am seeing is full range speakers. |Are cheaper (driver wise) multi driver speakers going to produce an apreciable difference?
On the same subject, the missions use a doped paper cone, what should I be aiming to do treatment wise?
Blair
Hi Folk's
Just to report, I haven't done any blocking, but have coated the cones using the product I found for decoupage and I do believe it s a winner!
I did 2 light coatings and the reduction in the highend fizz and sizzle which was disturbing me has gone. They are alot cleaner and the mid is even more pleasant. If the dots make as big a difference again I'll be happy! I can crank up the volume a bit more now without the harshness. Whereas before I wouldn't/couldn't.
Stroop
Just to report, I haven't done any blocking, but have coated the cones using the product I found for decoupage and I do believe it s a winner!
I did 2 light coatings and the reduction in the highend fizz and sizzle which was disturbing me has gone. They are alot cleaner and the mid is even more pleasant. If the dots make as big a difference again I'll be happy! I can crank up the volume a bit more now without the harshness. Whereas before I wouldn't/couldn't.
Stroop
Hi for the UK guys I have this link
http://www.wonderlandmodels.com/Mic...x314038.html?zenid=fcgjtm83193m66fo2kvhoq13g6
It has cost me £6-49 with postage for 2.5oz of microgloss and 1 tin of flat white Tamiyo acrylic paint, hope it helps.
http://www.wonderlandmodels.com/Mic...x314038.html?zenid=fcgjtm83193m66fo2kvhoq13g6
It has cost me £6-49 with postage for 2.5oz of microgloss and 1 tin of flat white Tamiyo acrylic paint, hope it helps.
a couple of quick questions,
firstly there was talk a few (hundred) posts back about a wikki page for EnABL, i was wondering how that is coming along as trying to find the relevant info is no easy task now due to the size of the thread.
Secondly, I presume a baffle is treated the same as a cone, acrylic blocks with micro gloss on top.
Now I've had a week listening to my EnABLed drivers, I'm getting ready to
a: practice EnABLing drivers so I can do my own FE166's, plus I think it will be fun doing some cheep systems just to hear the sound difference (Kids hide your sterios this weekend
)
b: Bud and Dave very kindly provided me with the pattern for my baffles, so nothing to loose and everything to gain) I'm going to EnABLE my baffles. I am curious as to what effect this will have on the overall sound.
firstly there was talk a few (hundred) posts back about a wikki page for EnABL, i was wondering how that is coming along as trying to find the relevant info is no easy task now due to the size of the thread.
Secondly, I presume a baffle is treated the same as a cone, acrylic blocks with micro gloss on top.
Now I've had a week listening to my EnABLed drivers, I'm getting ready to
a: practice EnABLing drivers so I can do my own FE166's, plus I think it will be fun doing some cheep systems just to hear the sound difference (Kids hide your sterios this weekend
)b: Bud and Dave very kindly provided me with the pattern for my baffles, so nothing to loose and everything to gain) I'm going to EnABLE my baffles. I am curious as to what effect this will have on the overall sound.
Ed I would certainly interested in a group buy for this kit since I have (9) FR/WR 125's to treat.
Bud; Have you worked with the CSS units and do you have patterns for them?
Also, a lot has been said positively about the Hemp 4.5"s but I can't find a source that sells them. Anyone have info on this?
Pete
Bud; Have you worked with the CSS units and do you have patterns for them?
Also, a lot has been said positively about the Hemp 4.5"s but I can't find a source that sells them. Anyone have info on this?
Pete
Hi Dave,
How many coats of Microgloss did you use on the FR 125'S, and did you do anything to the rear of the cone? Oh yes how about the phase plug?
As I reported earlier I did the front face of the cone ( pre treated with C 37 ) with blocks and then used 1 coat of Microgloss. It worked very well but I am sure there is more to come.
Thanks.
Rob.
How many coats of Microgloss did you use on the FR 125'S, and did you do anything to the rear of the cone? Oh yes how about the phase plug?
As I reported earlier I did the front face of the cone ( pre treated with C 37 ) with blocks and then used 1 coat of Microgloss. It worked very well but I am sure there is more to come.
Thanks.
Rob.
One set i did was pre-treated with C37. I used 3 coats of 50% gloss.
The other was untouched, i used 4 50% coats of gloss (these are the ones Bob has)
6 of the ones in the queue have puzzlecoat pre-treatment.
Nothing on the back, Phase plugs got a pattrn just above the at rest voice coil and on the point. I tried putting gloss, but that didn't work well so i ended up with nothing.
dave
The other was untouched, i used 4 50% coats of gloss (these are the ones Bob has)
6 of the ones in the queue have puzzlecoat pre-treatment.
Nothing on the back, Phase plugs got a pattrn just above the at rest voice coil and on the point. I tried putting gloss, but that didn't work well so i ended up with nothing.
dave
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