Marshall Super Lead MkII

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I found this Marshall on local scrapyard!!! Price was only 50 din (around 0.60€) per kilogram :).

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Serial nuber:

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Amplifier is without tubes, on shematics missing tubes is 3xECC83 and 4xEL34. All tubes i found in forgotten EI shop in Nis (Serbia, Yugoslavia). Prices was 330 din (4,10€) for ECC83 and 680 din (8,50€) for EL34.

Amplifier is with 3 original tube sockets, one was changed with plastic (bakelit on serbian) EI made socket. (on picture right over big blue condensators)

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


I need help with disconnected wire marked with purple circle on picture. All other connections looks good for me.

Tnx for help.
 
What NO Guitar Freaks

As no-one seems to have replied - must be all HiFi nutters here.

The dangling wire shown in the photo looks like it is the earth side of the speaker output connection. Check that it comes from the output socket connection closest to the rear panel. If that is where it comes from then it needs to connect to the chassis somewhere. Have a look around for a solder tag under a transformer or printed circuit board mounting screw/bolt that looks like its had a wire broken off from it. It should be no further away than the length of the piece of wire and so should be easy to find.

Cheers,
Ian
 
Oh, some of us are amp guys. I make a living servicing the things. My pals over at www.ampage.org would be interested in your project as well.

Since it was thrown out, make sure the transformers are not shot. That is the main reason an amp gets discarded. If it does not blow the fuses when powered up but still in standby, that is a good sign. If heater voltage is present that is also good.

Before truning the standby to operate position, check teh resistance of the primary side of the output transofrmer. Check for shorts between secondary and primary there. Check for primary shorted to frame. And before you reconnect that loose wire to ground, make sure the secondary winding is not shorted to frame.

Passing all those tests, flip the standby on without power tubes and see what happens. Make sure the -50v or something similar is on all four pin 5 contacts for the output tubes. Make sure B+ is on pins 3 and 4 of all four power tube sockets.

Then install tubes and go for it.
 
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