Well, the budget isnt a consideration here - I have money that I can spend. Im more into understanding how to make this thing and then making a good device
Well, the budget isnt a consideration here - I have money that I can spend. Im more into understanding how to make this thing and then making a good device
Then it really is a question of what you want, what you are capable of building.
If budget is no object, your best bet might just be to purchase a busking amp, or transplant the guts into this enclosure size you have in mind for whatever reason.
An HONEST Review of the 10+ Best Amps for Busking
An HONEST Review of the 10+ Best Amps for Busking
What I want is to understand how this actually works. I want to wrap my head around the cabinet calculations and speaker placement, resonant frequencies and small details that make a good amp
basically I want to make this a hobby of mine and later construct interesting amps for myself or friends.I ahve found all kinds of calculators and formulas to evaluate the cabinet, but im still not clear of which parameter I should consider as the main one to focus on. Is that cabinet volume or speaker placement or something else..
I think I will do some drawings first to actually have a finite cabinet and will do some calculations and play with the driver placements. I will share my drawings here so that it would be easier to talk instead of just fantasizing about what i want to do.
If you had to go for one driver for guitar - which one would you choose?
What spice would you like in your soup?
It all depends on what music you play listen to. Getting a Marshall rig might not fit if you are into Fender cleans, not that Marshall can not play clean. Just different speakers. One speaker that I like is the WGS 10" Veteran. As far as speaker placement and cabinet details, we don't overthink things too much. Either sealed enclosure, open back, or the middle road with the back mostly closed with a hole in it.
It all depends on what music you play listen to. Getting a Marshall rig might not fit if you are into Fender cleans, not that Marshall can not play clean. Just different speakers. One speaker that I like is the WGS 10" Veteran. As far as speaker placement and cabinet details, we don't overthink things too much. Either sealed enclosure, open back, or the middle road with the back mostly closed with a hole in it.
I think it's a cool project, provided you can go through a few iterations!
How about it's as big at the front as a full 4x12 But just one speaker, and make it thin as you need it. ie, the volume per speaker is about normal. Maybe some acoustic absorption just behind the speaker to control waves off the back face.
How about it's as big at the front as a full 4x12 But just one speaker, and make it thin as you need it. ie, the volume per speaker is about normal. Maybe some acoustic absorption just behind the speaker to control waves off the back face.
Yeah, my friends also tell me that, but the main reason im doing this is to actually understand how this whole amp thing works, so I really want to fig deeper than just removing parts from one amp and putting it into a different box
I want a clean sound, but a harsher tone with a little bit of drive. I would say something more Fender style. Marshall amps are very noisy for me, I dont like that.. They have a nice tone though.
Volume per speaker you mean for one guitar circuit or double circuit for a guitar and mic?
Thank you, John.
I have put together a basic drawing of the idea. Also, I put in a driver into the system that Printer2 said liked (I gave alisten to it on the WGS website) - WGS 10" Veteran.
I hae also used the information on the WGS website to calculate the cabinet port size. At this point I put in these parameters into the online calculator HERE:
24,5 - Diameter across the speaker cone including half of the cone suspension
110,86 - Resonant frequency of the driver
17,2304 - Q mechanical
1,9694 - Q electrical
1,7674 - Total Q of the driver
0,808 - Equivalent volume of compliance
And got these results:
62,14 - Calculated Enclosure Volume in liters
27,89 - Port alignment frequency
12,99 - 3dB Down Point (not sure what that is)
The problem is when I press the button to calculate single or dual port dimensions. Somehow single port is less than dual port. Is this supposed to happen? Im sure theres something that I dont know..
Attachments
This speaker is too stiff for a bass reflex. The high stiffness swamps box effect. About the "best we can do" is a long falling bass with a minor resonance, which this calculator proposes for 28Hz, which is FAR below the guitar band thus useless.
That speaker is aimed at a large open-back cabinet, traditional Fender. The "too-high" Q of 1.8 will compensate the bass fall-off of a 24"-wide open cabinet well-enough.
That speaker is aimed at a large open-back cabinet, traditional Fender. The "too-high" Q of 1.8 will compensate the bass fall-off of a 24"-wide open cabinet well-enough.
What does stiff exactly mean in this instance? The plywood is too thick or the dimensions are too close to each other making the box very stiff? Im sorry I dont know if im getting it the right way..
Can you elborate on this sentence, please?
Are you offering an open back design? Im afraid it is not possible, because it will be fitted on a surface..
> What does stiff exactly mean in this instance? The plywood ...
No. The *cone* suspension is stiff. Push on a cone. A Hi-Fi woofer moves easy. This class of guitar speaker, the cone is hard to move. The Designer proportions the cone suspension for an appropriate stiffness for the intended use. For a closed-box system, the box air adds stiffness, we want a low-stiffness speaker. For an open-back spealer, a limp suspension would let the cone "slap", we want a stiff suspension.
> Are you offering an open back design?
Not offering you any design because clearly you have it all worked out.
No. The *cone* suspension is stiff. Push on a cone. A Hi-Fi woofer moves easy. This class of guitar speaker, the cone is hard to move. The Designer proportions the cone suspension for an appropriate stiffness for the intended use. For a closed-box system, the box air adds stiffness, we want a low-stiffness speaker. For an open-back spealer, a limp suspension would let the cone "slap", we want a stiff suspension.
> Are you offering an open back design?
Not offering you any design because clearly you have it all worked out.
Conventional HiFi/PA/DJ/Bass cabinet design tries to extend Bass response downwards and make it as flat as possible.
So the myriad cabinet designs available, with soft suspension closed box and tuned cabinets being specially popular; there are others of course.
None of that applies to Guitar cabinets because requirements are very different, and at the same time, speakers themselves are very different.
Stiff, harsh (by Hi Fi standards) , **LOUD** , typically with a STRONG peak (10/12dB) somewhere between 2500 and 3500Hz (which gives them "bite"/attack/definition) ... and no Bass to speak of, so concentrating on that is wasting time.
Here, look for yourself, check what I just said:
This is *typical* Guitar Speaker frequency response:
Scary 108dB peak at some 2500Hz, huge dip at 1500Hz, response dropping **24dB/octave** above the peak, yet this is a KILLER Guitar speaker.
Standard "Box designer" software does not know what to do with them.
So the myriad cabinet designs available, with soft suspension closed box and tuned cabinets being specially popular; there are others of course.
None of that applies to Guitar cabinets because requirements are very different, and at the same time, speakers themselves are very different.
Stiff, harsh (by Hi Fi standards) , **LOUD** , typically with a STRONG peak (10/12dB) somewhere between 2500 and 3500Hz (which gives them "bite"/attack/definition) ... and no Bass to speak of, so concentrating on that is wasting time.
Here, look for yourself, check what I just said:
This is *typical* Guitar Speaker frequency response:
Scary 108dB peak at some 2500Hz, huge dip at 1500Hz, response dropping **24dB/octave** above the peak, yet this is a KILLER Guitar speaker.
Standard "Box designer" software does not know what to do with them.
So if I understand this correctly, what PRR was reffering to was a subwoofer design instead of a guitar cabinet? Correct me if im wrong, but then it works out that a stiff cabinet and a stiff speaker actually go hand in hand with each other, if I do the closed back design?
Yes, this must give the speaker its unique tone and character. Are these calculations a representation of the driver I have provided (WGS 10 Veteran) or is it a speaker you like?
What software are you using?
All that wobble above 1kHz is "outside the box"; box volume has no influence on the highs (though low/high balance is a consideration).
What I see is that 'your' speaker has Q of 0.7 at 90Hz. So 90Hz is 3dB down from the general trend 200Hz-1kHz. In a large box this would be fine for guitar. Open-back, the resonance is unchanged but baffle-loss shaves less or more bass away; a range of acceptable (to guitarist) responses.
We generally want final system Q between 0.7 and 1.2. Flat to the lowest note and then let all below fade away.
The proposed WGS 10" Veteran is no-doubt a fine speaker but the very high Q of 1.78 means it is aimed at large open baffle (a popular guitar cabinet type). Messing with box does little, until we make a box about the size of the driver's shipping-box, which will push Q up to 2.5 (an 8dB bump) at 150Hz (carving off almost an octave of guitar low-notes). This may even be a great busking amp because it is the most sound in the least box.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.